XKLABA

did a search on here and came up with nothing so I thought I would throw this in here. The gates 151 tooth belt part number is 5399xs or/and T790, the belt is 1208mm long by 25.4 wide with a MC profile ( the same as the stock 26 profile )

yeah there is

got pics and a location ?

9.0 against 9.5 for the neo, I'm sure they do, Greg any input on this http://www.webbersrbguide.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=74

the rb25 pistons are all the same, the neo head has a smaller combustion area which is what gives it the higher cr, the 26 pistons have a different comp/pin hieght to account for the extra stroke, but you still have to work out the static comp ratio when chopping and changeing crank/rod/piston setups. as long as you keep a 0 deck hieght and have a 1mm+ head gasket you wont have piston/head clearance problems, piston/valve comes down to cam duration and timing more then anything, if its to close for comfort then you can get/have the pistons flycut for valve clearance to get the cr up you have to reduce combustion area, where it be by shaving the head or getting pistons with bigger domes the end result is the same. lifting comp ratios has the same effect on turbos as N/As, the higher the cr the high the PSI in the combustion camber at TDC, the higher the pressure the more force on the piston pushing it down and in turn giving more power. adding boost means your compressing pressurized air( boost pressure ) inturn increasing combustion pressures which gives more power

no you will be flowing pretty much the same air just making better use of it

so static comp ratio is 8.5-1, to low for big duration cams, to late just add boost and play with cam timing to reduce over lap which will increase your dynamic comp ratio

the kink was removed to make entry into the new section easier/safer, that kink was put in cause the track was originally designed for bikes but now it throws you wide so now its more flowing I didn't think they where removing turn 8 and if you hire the whole or south track you can still use i use it, but I'm with Fatz, 8 is better then 1

that was with R34 N1 turbos I get 19psi by 2800rpm on my 32 GTR which is on 98, though stock turbos don't hurt

I swear by the CES split dumps, I have the factory replacement type with matching front pipes on my 32 GTR and with 293rwkw the car has run 11.13 with stock turbos, that speaks for itself. I am putting the comp series ones on the GT-RS powered 26/30 I'm building for my 34 GTR

I should add it also had 110ron race fuel

if remember correctly the BSM car (daves one for IP) had 12.5/1 and 25psi of boost by 2500rpm, but with two 27mm restrictors the fun was over by 5500-6000rpm

yeah I remember, and that smoke was number 2 piston going bye bye, I had run 11.36 before that and I have sence run 11.13 with only 293rwkw and stock turbos hand brake is the best way IF you have a good clutch, other wise no hand brake dial in 7000-7500 and just find friction piont then ride out works for me second gear launchs in standed ratio 34 or 32 and 33 with 4.33 diff ratios other wise use first and short shift to second

I remember this question a while ago, about two 34s, same motor and set up, both on slicks, one GTT the other GTR,which would be faster, simple answer. Once the front wheels are in the air how will 4WD help, 4WD would only help a car that badly spins the rear tyres off the start line, then it is just extra wieght to push down the track

could be as simple as he already had the 25 and didn't want to change engine number, if you have to start from scratch with a new block then a well built, well balanced fordged 30 is going to give better results then a 25 anyday of the week, same technology more capacity. you can run the standed idler and tensioner wheel locations with a 150 tooth belt ( but they get close ) or a 152 tooth belt and move the tensioner or idler wheel, other wise just read as much info as you can, everything you need to know is here somewhere, reseach as much as you can and devise how you want to go about building one, I will say pay alot of attention to oil control and crank case venting as these done wrong can kill a RB quick

go the 30 fully fordged with that head, fixed of course, more torque, more power and better response, it's win win win really.

ball bearing/ceramic All factory/non N1 turbos are ceramic

Stick your head under the car from the drivers side and you will see the slave cylinder on the side of the gearbox, if the slave cylinder pushes to the front of car its a pull clutch , if it pushes to the back of the car its a push clutch IMO get a twin plate

+1, get a wheel alignment and see whats going on, when i first brought my 32 it chewed out a pair of tyres in 2500kms, got a wheel alignment and the front had 6.5mm of toe each side so it drove straight but was very twitchy when turning and made the tyres look like yours

congrates on sale, lasted longer then I would have thought SiR_RB, it's more when there is a oil the filter relocator as well as cooler, but basicly when thermostat opens it creates a pressure drop in the engine as the oil is diverted from engine to cooler, which is normally ok but when you couple that with a air pocket, from just changed oil and filter, and full throttle and bingo lost bearing.

and the price ?

+1 Windsor exhaust, I've seen some of there custom work and it is top quality

hahaha, I can't argue that just reread the thread and " little " is spot on with what he has said, when clutchs wearout they seperate further unless the plate has been bent and in which case all gears will give trouble, I'd say it"s time for new syncos

exactly, that is how I would discribe the twin plate I have single plate clutchs and 300kw+ gtrs are only ever going to be a short term relationship, best I got was 12,000kms/1 year of "my driving"

this, lol nah I drive mine like a factory clutch around town, find friction point and ease away, no jerking or shoudering just nice smooth take off, has been in car for near 6 years and when I go to an event it gets bashed then drives home normaly, smother then any other clutch I have driven, and I have had quite a few, one got distroyed in 6 mounths, less then 5000kms