XKLABA

Hi mate, 9.5 CR is fine just can't run big boost, it's mostly in the tune anyway, if you have a united servo down there they will have premium 100 soon if not already, the servo around the corner from me said they are all getting it weather that's true or not is a different story, and maybe even E85

any links or more info on that Duncan, I am also looking for something like that for my new motor

good point haha isn't there a paint code list some where

diy mate, they are easy to do, I did my 32 ones in a translucent red after having them polished sorry its dirty, had sat in the shed for a few months

as Marko said, you need to get a pry bar in behind the cv hub put constant pressure on it then put the other one behind the cv hub on the opposite side give it a bang with the hammer, may take a few goes

two pry bars and a hammer \/ \/ \/

I put the cusco ones on the front of my 34, I brought them cause they are blue like the car, no I'm not kidding easy to fit and appear to be good quality and with a small mod they have heaps of preset adjustments only thing I think is they are not so good if you want to adjust the castor though as the are a fixed 1 piece arm with a bolt holding it to hub assembly not a ball joint

11.3 sweet and 127.5mph is quite high and good for a very high 10 I have a set of stock 32 GTR rims with Toyo TQs your welcome to borrow next if you like, was going to bring them down last night but got caught up with some family matters and couldn't make it, they do a good job of holding traction

I should stop being lazy and take my Ninja for a run, I'll see how I feel after work

wow there is a WTB section cause there so many people that just can't seem to find it and post there needs in other sections, instead of actually just looking for what they need in the correct for sale section

haahaa

it's only illegal if you get caught, I notice there was no denying the eventual possible use of a 3.0 though

bahaha, standard ratio R33 GTR, use first and short shift into second, even with stock turbos that get 19psi by 2800rpm it's hard to keep it on boost on a second gear launch, so much so I don't even try it anymore and I reeeaaally hate clutchs

depends how much you hate your clutch

that was definitely out of left field, I thought for sure you would say twins, but I've seen this sort of thing before, first it's a big single then it's No2 and before you know it there is a 3.0 on its way

always use bolt on spacers not slip on, reason is then there is only one slip point ( the flat surface where hub and wheel meet ) the each set of studs have to secure not two

aaaaaaaaannnnnnnnd then ?

funny someone said ebay, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEOTECH-NISSAN-5-Stud-114-3-20mm-Bolt-Wheel-Spacers-/140822782086?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c9b12086 these are the ones I ran front and back on my R34 GTR V-SPEC II for 3 trackdays and nearly 10 months without an issue and they still look as good as the day I got them only rolling diameter will upset the 4WD system, so you will be ok, ONLY GET BOLTON SPACERS and make sure they a torqued on propely

except they have a 140 treadwear, I am looking at them for my 34 after Ash mentioned them and I looked into them, they look gun, but what is the life span of them for someone that uses them day to day and not just as a weekender as I would be, so if someone that HAS USED them could give a idea of KMs that would be great the KU36s are more "street" then "track" where the RS-3s appear to be the other way around Where would one find said A050s ? interesting that the INVOs have 2 different tread ratings

street tyres ( 265/35/18) I run 30 psi, you need the pressure to keep the centre of the tyre flat on the ground with even pressure across the tread and since the side walls of low profile tyres don't twist/flex there is no advantage to lowering the pressures, all it does is make the side walls take the weight and reduce the grip in the middle of the tyre Drag tyres, ( 255/50/16 Toyo TQs ) 18-20psi, opposite of the street tyre reasoning

That is what I am working on, nice of you to comment

awesome conversion, your in New Jersey USA yeah, when someone says across the pond here they mean New Zealand lol try the Tomei type R poncams, 250 x 9.15 ID 1000s would be the go for what your aiming -9s/ GT-ss or T517zs are proven performers at that level stock or slightly over for the intercooler, like the ARC 76mm Nistune or Power fc with Z32 AFMs will work fine, comes down to how good the tuner is anyway really I have the Excedy twin, identical to the coppermax, and is a great clutch that setup in that car tuned right would be ALOT of fun

yeah 11.99 you need a SS licence, 10.99 you need cage, 140mph you need shute, I ran 11.48 then turned up boost and ran 11.36 then 11.38 and no one said anything about a licence then the next time I went down I ran 11.8 (vs JEZ) cranked a piston on first pass and was told to leave or get a licence, so depends if the ANDRA rep is there or not I guess R32 GTR plus $10,000 in mods = low elevens, R35 plus tune equals low elevens, so $30,000 v $150,000 , having said that if I had $150,000 to spend on a car it would be a R35

Uh ha, didn't see that bit, but no I think 260 would have very little grip, I think your right about staying to the 200 mark, I have the AD08s on my 32 which are 180 and are AWESOME tyres and they replaced Bridgestone Adrenalines which where 220 and not to bad, I have Falken RT615s on my 34 and they are 220 and are horrible horrible tyres I'd say go the AD08s or KU36s from my experiences as the best alround tyres

that run looked good and a 1.66 60' is really good to, that poor EMO thought he had it then noooooo monica! better tyres giving you the ability to leave the line on boost will see some even better times yeah 3rd gear has something about it that just gets it going