XKLABA

exactly, any actual reason you think it's great

this is the website/ebay place I got it from http://stores.ebay.com.au/ALL-PURPOSE-BATTERIES-ONLINE/12-volt-batteries-/_i.html?_fsub=134846119&_sid=230461229&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 they have actual store in Smeaton grange, go to the lithium batteries section in the left column, super start or ultra lite the one I have I have let go dead 4-5 times now, I keep forgetting to undo the isolation connection on the terminal, charged it and take car for a drive and it's still working and I most certainly want a ride in this monster

I brought it when I got the 34 started, yeah give us a buzz tomorrow and I'll find there details

A place in Smeaton Grange ( Nerellan), was $350 and it is physically smaller then the factory 32 battery, it's actually a motor bike battery

I brought a Lithium one, 13.7v 516CCA and it weighs 1.1kgs,

are the v-spec and non v-spec diffs the same width ?, I thought not cause I was expecting to change the CVs as well but I could be wrong

when i got mine our dealer is in NZ, that is where I got mine from, from Palmside I think Paul got his from the UK, maybe

Why not, I run 15psi for daily and 19psi to drag race and have done for over 10 years on stock turbos How long since the rebuild, what exhaust have you got

yeah on the 26 both lines run across the front, are you sure the steel lines aren't still there because they are attached the the plate behind the cam gears so unless they have been unbolted they should be there getting to where the small hose attaches to manifold is easy the bigger of the two is not going to be fun as it under the plenum next to the BOV signal port

I fairly sure the canister lines go around the front of engine behind the plate that goes behind the cam gears , the three that go around the back are water for turbos, wastegate line and factory bleed valve line

IMO SR20VET, 6262 PT, you'll save 100kgs off the front of the car and once you put semis on it the 4WD becomes less of an advantage unless you put LSD in front and mod transfer case Lighter car means less strain on drive line and with it coming off the front the car will be better balanced and in the mean time drive it till it breaks for some seat time

he didn't say these coils won't make power, he said on HIS setup he made less power with the yellow coils then he did with the stock ones and how do you know 1) he didn't make less power, and 2) your setup won't make more power by putting stock coils on your car, you've said our not will to try it but are willing to take a shot at someone that has why so angry, he is just telling us what he has experienced with his car, what does his power setup have anything it do with this issue if anything the fact his setup is so low power showing that kind of difference would mean it would be worse on a mild setup like yours and even more so on bigger setups can you prove he didn't and if your not willing to test them how do you know you don't have an existing coil issue or won't make more power by changing them and if you don't have an issue and these coils can make the power why are you changing them ? cause, and please correct me if I'm wrong, free or not the LS1 coils are not a plug and play setup and remove the factory look giving a greater chance of a defect if pulled over

I think you missed his point, he made less power on his setup with them so if you change the yellow jackets to stock and you might pick up x amount of power on your setup

Ok a little about the problem, after finally fitting the 26/30 I noticed that when sitting idling in neutral it rattles really badly then I push the clutch pedal down and the noise goes away, the noise is barely noticeable when driving the car, after driving down to watch Pauls car get tuned when I got home I put car in drive way then when I went to reverse it up the drive to turn it into the garage it would not allow me to select reverse it felt like it was locked out, I could get all forward gears but no reverse, this hasn't happened before I did a search when I first noticed the rattle and after reading what came up i just thought it was just what the getrag does but when I had trouble with reverse I figured it was something worse and decided to put this post up for ideas, I was thinking input shaft bearings from the noise but not so sure now the car has a triple plate, ( long story ) and that has only been in there for 1500-2000km and when I fitted it I install a new throw out bearing ( supplied with clutch ) and spigot bearing I did a full service, filters and fluids, when the motor went in as car had sat still for over a year and gearbox was filled with trans max Z

the difference is cams, I believe ( but could be wrong ) the cam timing is different and the keyway for the cas is different as already stated FWIW the manifolds look identical to me, I have both 32 and 34 here

That's antilag, it fills the exhaust manifold with fuel and the other cylinders fire it make an explosion in the manifold to increase pressure in the manifold to build boost quicker, Launch control hold a set RPM for you to launch off But I could be wrong

Launch control or anti lag ?

ha haa trust Paul to write it in soft pink, I didn't even see it, Cheers

easiest way would be fit head then cut an old belt and run it around then measure it/count the teeth, then search for a belt PS if it isn't a Nissan replacement belt then make sure the teeth profile is right, when I searched for a belt for my 26/30 I found that one of the belts commonly use for this combo is not the correct profile

just for my under standing, I'm still fairly new to E85 and haven't yet used it, what your saying is once you have hit the limit of 98 going to E85 will give you an extra 15% give or take

It would seem easy enough, if the block is VCT then block off the VCT oil feed and put 1-1.2mm restrictors in the other 2, use RB30 head bolts/studs for correct length for head, the hardest bit I can think of would be the correct length of the timing belt as no one I could think of would have done this before so you will have the figure that out for yourself after the head is fitted the RB30 head has a smaller combustion chamber the the 25/26 heads ( not sure about the NEO head, I believe it has a smaller chamber then the normal 25 head ) so the comp ratio will be higher, so checking the valve clearance would be a good idea that said I stand by my previous post as it's not a great idea, they went to twin cam for a reason/reasons, but I love a slapper engine and am interested to see how this turns out, GL

ROFL, that's gold RB30 single cam has bigger ports than any other RB ( including the 26 ) the problem is air velocity which is why 25/26 heads on 30 bottom ends work better in N/A form, loss 500cc and there would be very little air speed left like previously stated by others, happy to be proven wrong so do it and post result

Always happy to help, if you get stuck on something shot me a PM, I have some pics here some where

stock 32/33 are 0.42 A/R front and 0.48 A/R rear stock 34 are 0.53 A/R front and 0.48 A/R rear 32/33 N1s are 0.42 A/R front and 0.64 A/R rear 34 N1s are 0.42 or 0.60 ( optional ) front and 0.64 rear all N1s have the 0.64 A/R rear housing which is written on the inlet of the exhaust housing where it bolts to the manifold, FWIW all and only 34 turbos are BB

external pickup is what I have done, I have a box welded in the center of the sump with a pipe from that to the side of the sump with a AN-12 fitting all welded together then a AN-12 braided hose to the port in the side of the oil pump it's a shorter, smoother run and the oil isn't running through a hot block gathering any extra heat soak and was alot easier to set up then a custom internal pick up and the ID size of this setup is bigger then the feed through the block, I opened up the side of the oil pump to except a bigger fitting then the 1/2" npt fitting thread the Nitto pump has so I have a minimum ID of 16mm the hardest thing on this setup was drilling a hole through the A/C bracket so I could keep the A/C