XKLABA

location and where did you purchase them from

my R32 at texi, shit quality photo though

I had a similar thing happen to me, when car warmed up I would lose boost, leave car to cool off and boost would return, ended up being the cat was stuffed changed it to a new high flow and problem never came back

same same same all the same, I brought the RB20 one for the RB30 I'm building and it lines up with the RB26 one perfectly

sorry to cut in, but I think you'll find the whole cat back is actually HKS Super Drager, nismo cat and front pipe I have the Super drager on my R32 GTR and have been searching for one for the R34 GTR with no luck so I have brought a Super Drager resonator and am going to custom build a copy from the one on the 32 for the 34 IIRC the HKS Super Drager exhausts are hand built and one of the best sounding exhausts I've heard IMO and for $400 uckers you won't be disappointed again IIRC Jasma is the Japanese certification for street legal exhausts

pics from the last owner, looks a bit different now with Nismo side extensions, rear pods ( copys ) and bronze 19" TE37s and waiting for some CF bits, should be up and running again in a few weeks so I can take a few fresh pics and post em

This, how are you going with it Paul, still waiting to see the final result

exactly, the problem isn't getting the oil to the sump it's letting the air out and in an ideal world piston rings that seal perfectly would be lovely but not everyone can afford them, so crank case/sump breathers are a good solution/alternative given the design of the head (26 anyway) the "rear head drain " is more just a breather and even though some oil does go down it the air it releases from the bottom end is its main benefit as Shoota_77 has said the gears in the stock pump are bigger and IMO would be the choice of OEM pumps if you are going to change the gears to the Reimax ones and shim it for a bit more pressure

it also depends on how much you can do you're self and how much damage is done, spun bigend could mean you just need to regrind crank, new conrod and bearings, fairly simple job, or it could be new crank line bore and hone of block as well as new conrod and bearings contact Gerg_R31's on here and have a chat with him, he is an engine builder and specializes in RB30s and is located at Liverpool/Moorebank this is his build thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/374496-gerg-r31s-na-rb2630de/

it won't be cam timing, they're mechanically spaced from cylinder to cylinder and as such will give even results across the board, dew to the inconsistency between cold and hot I would cold test all again then wet test then hot test incase the tester wasn't sealed in properly, and test all but I would say from what i have read you will need to find someone that can do a leakdown test, if there is a valve issue like a small chip or crack in one valve it will still give some compression in a comp test, the leakdown will comfirm to do a leakdown you need a compressor and a attachment to go between the hose that goes to the motor and the comp tester gauge that you can attach the compressor to, to do the test you need to find the point where both valve are shut, pump it to a set psi and then see how long it takes go drop to 0

some cars use the air box as induction noise pollution control, mostly Hondas, fire risk is BS maybe cut out the side of the air box, just not the bit between the filter and AFM

Hi John I've meet you few times at UAS, John told me about this thread, will be good to see how this car progresses, subsribed It is a custom bar that was made by Phil Coles ( who drove the combined touring car ) and the guys at BSM for this car when it was still racing in IPRA

nice, it's always good when a plan comes together and you get what you where hoping for congrats mate how long till you take it for a run

what is the disc size ?

lol yeah I said he needs the 130db air horn from the truck shop, but that breaks the noise restriction limits the Polaris that started in front of us cut them better then us, which worked out good for us, as they made a new track we went passed him we normally topped out 3rd along that straight once into 4th and its a 5 speed straight gate geared for 220km at 7000rpm with 35s, it's a VQ35HR ( class restriction of 3500cc ) with a 8500 rev limit that track was cut down because the rest of the track made that part look like we where running around on a cricket pitch, that was the first time a national round was held at that track and the first national round my brother had done in that car so he was taking it slow to get use to the car, it's to bad the GoPro went flat cause it got a fare bit faster we left the line in 47th place ( first national event and no prolog due to weather and shit/dangerous original track ) with 15 second gap between cars and where 16th across it with 9th outright and 2nd in class

something different, not exactly circuit, it's our first lap of the last round of the AORC at Gatton QLD on a cut down 18km lap from the original 80km

how lowered is your car ? I have my Cusco front arms at there maximum setting and they are at -3deg but my car is factory V spec II ride height

Penrite hpr30 is what I will be using

any progress ? or just waiting for dyno time

yeah, where the master cylinder shaft joins the pedal there is a lock nut on the shaft, loosen it and then turn the shaft till the pedal gets to where you want it then tighten the nut back up

what boost are you running ATM, 10 or 12 psi ?, where does the blue hose go ?, where is the stock boost solenoid ? and what is joining the two hoses together ? the restricter should be where the yellow ring of paint is on the black hose

that is not a 30, on the 30 there will be a gap between the water pump and head as mentioned and the water feed on the side of the block steps down at the front and I'm sorry to say but that engine number is not genuine Nissan lettering, it has been restamped

thanks for that mate and it should be useful info for Sau uses, but I got lazy and sent it to Award diff to get it done GTR skyline front diff bearings and seals bearing pinion - 38120-03V00 bearing pinion - 38140-03V00 BRG taper...... - 38440-03V01 x 2 BRS-side shaft.- 38440-03V10 seal oil..............- 38342-03V01 seal oil............. - 38342-03V11 seal hub front...- 40227-50W01 ring o retainer...- 38343-03V01 seal-oil drive.... - C8189-03V00

11.8 @ 121mph would suggest only minimal wheel spin, my 300rwkw R34 GTR ran 11.8 @ 118mph, so add the extra weight that car is still only a realistic 330-350rwkw yeah ok, I'm no "expert at drag racing" but my full weight R32 GTR with 3 V12 alpine amps, a Type R Alpine 12" sub and box , Focal Utopia 6.5" splits ( each woofer weighs 5.5kgs plus the tweeter and cross over) and Boston acoustic 6.5" two ways in the parcel shelf, stock turbos, injectors, cams. intercooler blah blah blah, on 16psi made 261rwkw and with that it ran 11.49 @ 121mph then the boost got turned up to 19psi with 290.1rwkw it ran 11.36@ 125mph and 11.38@ 125mph on 18" rims and what ever tyres I was running on the street at the time, so your expert drag racer needs to get back to the track and learn to drive, so who exactly is getting put to shame To the OP, -5s on a 2.8 making 565rwhp @ 23psi is pretty good, higher lift cams, 4" intercooler and 3.5-4" exhaust would help release a few more hp, the bigger diameter AFMs would most likely help to, but I wouldn't be to disappointing with that result given the setup

No lift pump, the surge tank is welded to the bottom of the main tank and gravity feed through a series of 8 ( if think ) 1/2" holes then twin Bosch external pumps