XKLABA

when you say damaged goods cleared can you be a bit more specific as I have not received any info about or replacement for my damaged item

Exactly, I to have the Quaife front LSD and I forget it's even there, brilliant for daily street driven GTRs that do occasional trackdays or drags

I think from memory it is a Performance Metalcraft sump and gated baffle, definitely a good piece of kit and well worth what your asking and if I didn't all ready have one this would be mine

If you change to the z32 AFMs get the apexi kit and lose the HKS filters, the set I had let dust around the edge of the foam In my experiences the relocator kits can get air pockets which get released at less then ideal times and given how hard these cars get driven on a track makes it worse, i have spun a big end in both cars and both had relocator kits, the one in the 32 was removed 7 years ago and it hasn't done one since, plus it adds length between the oil pump and engine is less then ideal and variations in pressure as the thermostat opens to direct oil to the cooler from the filter Remove the HICAS and that block next to the filter goes giving a lot more room to get to the filter

What r33 racer said, plus you say restrictors, do you have one or two ? Where the oil returns/drains in the head and block drilled out ?

Orange on black, nice Looks like a good build What AFMs are you running with the PFC Oil cooler yes, relocator not such a great idea especially if you intend tracking it IMO

That duct is a 32 thing, I have one on mine, it cups the hole in the front bar and turns up under the air box, haven't seen one for the 33 or 34 yet All that power and through a paper filter, freakin awesome, got a graph

It was just a suggestion, but in my experiences cars that have been tuned with a leak and then the leak is fixed it runs lean due to metered air no long escaping and the computer isn't tune for that amount of air making it to the motor and not putting in enough fuel to compensate for it, where if the car wasn't over fueling and now it is that would suggest to me a leak and the air the AFMs are telling the computer is going through isn't making to the motor and the computer is put fuel in for it would result in over fueling either way i'm sure Jez will sort it I really like the blue cam covers with the yellow car and now I'm on the computer instead of my phone the car likes even better, any plans on bringing it to eastern creek drags one Wednesday night

Beautiful car, looks great in yellow If its over fuelling then there is still a leak some where

Any progress yet Paul, or just taking up space

A well built 2.6 will give more power then needed on the street, JEs and Carillos are more then upto the power you want as are all the others mentioned so whatever you feel comfortable forking out for will work just fine but if the crank has to be replaced anyway then for the extra cost a stroker is the way to go for the extra capacity, I am nearly finished with a rb2630 build, capacity is king but how much, I think its size v cost v hassle, if I did it again the BC 2.9 would be the way I went I have brought from those ebay guys before with no hassles

Going from 3" down to 2.5" is not a good thing and given how the boost trails off about 3 psi I'd say your right and it is a restriction of some sort I always say fix what you know is not right before something that might not be right, remove the 2.5" section and make it all 3" and see if that helps then go from there

The smaller one is boost/vacuum signal, the middle one is boost in and the other one is to waste gate, will confirm when I get home and check the 32, so find both ends of the waste gate hose, pull it off run the end from the engine to the middle and the end from the waste gate actuator to the outside one

new pics of my 34

I put the screen of my HKS EVC ( i know its not the same but an idea all the same ) over the useless clock that never works using two sided tape and I can see it through the steering wheel

I'd guess stock cams but could be wrong

cheers

IIRC RP had a 2.9 with some thing like 420-440rwkw on stock cams, Ash might be able to confirm more accurately

hahaha, I did this, my 34 blow motor then I brought a set of bronze TE37s in 19 x 9.5 and it looks cool sitting on stands

T U R K E Y

or not, it is the one hose he doesn't have five or more of, my god he has some stuff but just my luck the one I need he is out of

had to be done, sorry Edit, try write the sphincter of the universe - slap , auto sensor changes it wild the sphincter of the universe

Cheers mate, but Fatz to the rescue, he has one I can pick up this arvo

cheers for the replies guys but cutting the factory 34 pipes isn't really an option as i plan on put a 26 back in it at some point, I think I have come up with a solution though, turns out the 32 hoses are a bit longer then the 33/34 ones and they seem to line up perfectly, I've fitted the one from the chassis to the plenum already and it is a perfect fit just can't for the life of me find the spear one for the other side, will post a pic when I get it done

Ok, been through all 14 pages and no clear answer yet, what is the easiest/neatest way to do the intercooler hoses from twin turbo pipe to chassis and from chassis to plenum ? I am thinking just get a hard pipe kit but would like to hear what others have done, there was one member that had silicone hose and it went back on but the stock hoses won't, ideas - experiences ?