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I've used those two switches/buttons to control the 4WD controller, one for up and the other for down, so momentary would be my guess too

as a guess I would say AFMs, read this and see if it sounds about right http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/113284-fixing-your-rb26-afms/page__hl__afm+repair__fromsearch__1

can you put me down for the rear bar add-on too, cheers can you add total and deposit required

bet that hurt, but it does look like it was some sort of road rally and shit does happen on those things

I use a place in kings park ( Blacktown) that I get to respray the white wheels on my 32 every time I get new tyres, I'm ruff on rims Mag wheel repairs Unit 11/ 11 Romford Rd, Kings Park NSW 2148 (02) 9621 3355

lol but you forgot , 2 that call for a ban for nonconstructive comments 4 that state fire is as good/the same as a light bulb

If you can that would be brilliant, thank you then I just have to figure out the bolts, might have to rip one out of a spare diff and take it to Nepean bolt master

I'm trying to find where I can get new crown wheel bolts, bearings and seals for the front diff, or even just parts numbers I have a new center, crown and pinion gear and would like to replace everything new any ideas in Sydney would be great, but anywhere I can source them is good to

this is exactly the same as the one on my car, it is a 3" SS exhaust with a good note but is quite loud

I worked on a house the other day which was set on a massive 319sm block, I don't think it's the big houses making the block look small but the small blocks make the houses look big yeah I'd agree it looks like he came down the hill left around the corner back stepped out to far to catch and off it goes, either way sad see another GTR down

How did you go fixing you car ?

did your put them on the front by chance ? but your bleeding sounds correct enough

I use trans max z in my transfer cases as well with no issue ( except for the massive amounts of abuse it gets ), it's the ATTESSA I use the Nissan "special blend" oil in when you say bled it what do you mean exactly and how did you go about it ? was it doing it before you bleed the system ? have you changed tyres lately ?

top fuelers/funny cars are on this weekend so hopefully the track will get prepped and there will be more grip next week, I am looking at taking the 32 out for a spin next week

then you can come do some skids around a bunch of cones in a car park

big lift yes, big duration not so much is that motor in yet? less keyboard punching and spanner swinging seriously though, if you want a hand any time shot me a PM or txt

I don't usually either I just do it when I have changed something to see if there was an improvement and as well as that I find cruising up a empty freeway in a 110km zone at 2am is boring so I find it a good way to stay alert and pass time as I drive home I'm not doing it over x time my aim is to see at what point/how early in the rev range the car gets full boost and as I have said there i no point accelerating from 4000rpm to find that out if it will get "full boost" ( in my case 1.3bar) much lower then that I tend to not post alot of my results as I find there are alot of people on here that believe cause they can't do it can't be done and as well as that there is so much info on here already I figure my results aren't going to do much either way, as I have said aswell it's also in the setup and choice of parts and as I aim for response that's what I get, most people use the type B poncams I use the type R which have the same lift but 10deg less duration P/C so less overlap, I went from the type Bs to the type Rs and this change alone gave me about 700rpm better response with the same peak power then retuning the camgears allowing for the overlap gave me even more response

I don't under stand what your getting at with this post, the OP used dyno sheets to give examples of boost response by a certain rpm and correct me if i'm wrong, but don't they make the dyno lock at a certain rpm then load the car up for a few seconds before releasing it for a run and almost always in a 1:1 ratio gear, now I don't sit on the brake for 5-10 seconds while "loading" it up then let it go I get it to 2000rpm then just hit the throttle and wait for a certain rpm then check the peak hold now I sure I've seen you post about variables with dyno runs now you are questioning me when I use the same gear and method ( except actually "loading" the car up before testing ) everyone uses for said dyno runs In the 32 If I tried it from 3000rpm or more it gives instant boost or try it in lower gears it starts to spin tyres so tell me when someone asks how low in the rev range the boost comes how do you give a correct/constant answer cause if you try from say 4000 rpm and the turbos will boost from 3000 then the answer you give is wrong anything above 3000 rpm in the 32 is instant boost, 3500rpm for the 34 with -7s, doesn't matter 2nd/3rd on/off/on throttle, it's instant and angry but then the OP didn't ask about that he asked when in the rev range do -7s come in using said dyno sheets as examples I drive the 32 between 2500 and 3500 rpm daily driving as it give usable boost from under 2000rpm so this is what I expect 100% of time and if I don't get it there is some thing wrong but then I build my cars for response to pull the cars out of corners not to make a big figure on a dyno, even with only 292rwkw for the 32 and 311rwkw for the 34 the cars are alot of fun to drive with loads of torque

lol, more luck then low revs, it's in the setup, particularly cams and there timing to make as much use from any given amount of air so they don't have to work as hard to make power, dump pipes to keep temps down and let back pressure escape plus driving style and choice of when to use it, drags and 2-3 power runs on the dyno at a time only, I've had this car over 10 years now with this being the second set of turbos, on the first set the bearings wore out response is in the setup, the choice of parts make a big difference, cams, cam timing, dump pipes, exhaust, spark plugs etc, the right choice and combination of parts and how they are setup then tuned is difference between good and great, 11.13@123mph with only 292.7rwkw on stock turbos unfortunately I didn't get to drag the 34 after I got it where I wanted it, it spun a bigend at EC 4 days after being tuned, 11.8@118mph was the best I got out it the day after I brought it which is the only time it was dragged

need a new block, want better response, got a R33 GTR, RB30 FTW, would nearly spinup -7s at ideal unless the tuner puts in the ratios and rolling diameter of tyres for every car that goes on dyno then the chances are the revs are not going to be correct, I know with the dyno sheets I have with my cars are about 1400rpm off I have HKS EVCs on both cars, I clear the peak hold select the 1:1 ratio in the box ( 4th for 32 and 5th for 34 ) sit it on 2000rpm and WOT till 3000rpm then shut it off, the 32 stock turbos has 1.3bar ( max boost set for both cars ) and the 34 gets 1.1, so then I repeat with different RPMs the 32 gets 1.3bar at 2800 and the 34 with -7s and type R poncams use to get 1.3bar at 3200rpm

I have just done this to a RB30, put all frost plugs in except the one at the front on the exhaust side then get the bung from the oil return line on the exhaust side and put it in the heater line fitting on the intake side then get block level and fill til it is level with the hole you can see through the frost plug not put in, that will have it 10mm above the bottom of the stroke with RB25 pistons and 2-3mm into the heater hose line and well above the water feed line for turbos I had the machining done after HardBloking it so didn't need a torque late note: make it runny almost like pumpkin soup and spread it evenly around the block, I got a oil syringe from autobarn cut the end nearly completely off and used it to spread it then I used a steel support from a wiper blade with the end bent to a 90 and used it to oscillate the HardBlok to level it around the block still yet to finish building that engine so don't know how it will go

try a 3" exhaust and a performance chip, 20-30% increase depending on quality of components

it's not much chop on the 5.9 Cummins either, but that is the stock turbo so that's what went back on though I think it's more the breathing setup on the truck more than the turbo, and the factory waste gate is 2 bar

look for a turbo diesel turbo, I just brought one for the 5.9 Cummins in my iveco eurocargo from a place in the UK, it cost me $811 delivered it is a Holset Hx35w twin scroll and the company is called Turbo Dynamics

after reading some of your posts I have to ask, how exactly did you go about doing the comp test ? you say the rear turbo is the one that keeps blowing but the front 3 cylinders have the lower comp