XKLABA

Yeah that's what I'm getting told, full stainless insides and built with alternative fuels in mind, can't wait for them and the computer to get here to see how they go

ID have released a all new injector the "ID1300", tech info http://www.injectordynamics.com/ID1300.html Introducing the ID1300 When we let the cat out of the bag at the PRI show in November, we had no idea we would get the kind of response that we did. Instead of answering questions about when it will be ready, we are hearing from dealers, and individuals who tell us that their build is on hold until they get their hands on them. Well guys...we are as excited as you are, but we are also unwilling to release an injector until it is good enough that we can call it the best, without reservation, regardless of the application. What we are willing to do is use this opportunity to tell you a little bit more about it, and how it came to be. The ID1300 is the result of a technical partnership between Injector Dynamics, and Bosch Motorsport This partnership allows us to start with a clean sheet of paper, to develop an injector with characteristics that will make it perform well in a wide variety of performance applications. The ID1300 Offers Compatibility with all known fuels. Stable operation over a broad pressure range. Low minimum fuel volume, capable of stoichiometric idle in small displacement engines. Smooth controlled response at low pulse widths, allowing accurate linearization using all OEM methods (Ford, GM, Chrysler, Porsche, Subaru, etc.) Coming soon to a dealer near you... cut and pasted from there website wondering if anyone has any ideas or thoughts about them, I put a set on order yesterday and they will be available in 2-3 weeks

When it says "Apexi delta fin design" it's a cheap copy, check the location if it says warehouse then it's Hong Kong or china or some remote location out the back of fing yong dynasty somewhere

When you turn the car off the water stops circulating around the engine and heat soaks, as soon as you start the car it starts moving again, so as long as the temp comes back down when you start it it's fine As for bleeding a GTR, its simple get the front end facing up a hill or on car ramps then top up radiator ( wait for it to cool down ) then remove that 10mm bolt, it's the only one with a copper washer , and wait for all the air to go and put bolt back in

I thought all of the copies where fibreglass ? deff N1 in design

lol -9s 450rwhp, -9 boost at idle

-9s will get you 450rwhp with the right support mods

I'm trying to find a machine shop to get some custom brackets made up, I have a set of 370z DBA 5000 discs and 6 piston AP calipers this is the closest thread I've found to what I'm after, if someone could point me in the direction of somewhere I could get this done would be appreciated also an idea of what measurements I need to take or a design program I could use would be great, I like to do as much as I can myself so I know/can learn what's going on

formular seems correct, the recommended install height would be 1.52", as per spec chart, 1.42" would be your limit so any where between the two would be fine depending on how much seat pressure you want if you go 1.42" then you won't be able to put higher lift cams in later with out reseating the springs, 0.1" is 2.5mm difference 67psi is not bad, I have my BCs set at 85-90psi

different install heights give different seat pressure, the second pic gives values @ 1.520" = 67 psi seat pressure - closed valve @ 1.130" = 166 psi seat pressure - open valve you have a range of install heights all around the 1.510"-1.530" which give a seat pressure of around 67 psi coil bind is @ 0.936" which is the limit of how far you can compress the spring if the 3rd pic is what you have them installed at then reducing the install height will increase seat pressure depending on how much pressure you want but the lower the install height the less lift the cams can have

how long is a peice of string ?

I run 15-16psi day in day out and 19 psi for drags and dyno runs, have done so for the better part of ten years in my 32, I replaced the first pair dew to the bearings wearing out and the second are still going the 34 turbos are a better/stronger design and are BB ( less resistence to turn comp wheel ), how you drive them is the most important thing IMO, sit there doing burnouts/donuts or trackdays on full/big boost and there won't live long be weary of how hard there are working and keep it to a minimum and they should live a long life GTR-34A, I love the the colour of your VS-II

this, plus billet sandwich plate

are yes, but is that a metric or imperial amount try running around the intake with a can of brake or contact cleaner, or the like, and see if idle changes and that will tell you if there is a leak

wow 551awkw out of GT-RSs, would love to see a dyno graph of that

question, how does the air get to the air box intake if you block the airs path from the grill with the radiator guide ?

i know the feeling, wait till you get married and have kids and see how the car fund goes, taken me a year now to build a 30 for my 34 2.2 @ 13.5 - 1 with E85 = yes is Gerard from GCCorp still going, I've gotten heaps of stuff from him but nothing for ages

what a great read, its good to see some quality DIY are we gonna see a stroker in there at some point by chance

now i think about it that was at EC about an hour before the motor went, so no back seat/spear tyre/jack etc, so stock deff over 1500kg thanks for the compliment Marko

the 33 is the heaviest, my 34 came in at 1480 with 1/3 tank, but the tar was removed before I brought it

That's right thats why I said generally, I have two EVCs now ( 4 & 5 ) and never had an issue, but both came up at good prices when I needed something, so either I've had a good run or your one had an issue, who knows but I know I'd wouldn't ever go the e boost, I spent hours setting up and CRD tried and no matter what we did it wouldn't catch how quick the 32 came on boost, fitted the EVC and with no setting it up had no more problems, been in car for 8-9 years so far

I've had e boost, never again, HKS EVC You generally get what you pay for

That's just a bottom end, no good without heads

Even 272s are to long in duration for good low end response, 2.6 with -5s and 98 are never going to be very responsive, start with play around with cam timing, I had type B poncams with -7s and was having the same issue, third to tall second to short, changed the cams to type Rs and then I could drive third out, a responsive setup/motor works on any track With the kind of power this combo can/should make changing back to 4.3 diff ratios will only result in fighting for traction and mean you'll end up wrestling the car all the way around the track and changing gear twice as much