XKLABA

first half of prologue @ Coffs Harbour till GoPro went flat

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I run the Brad Penn oil, which has ZDDP additives in it, anyone know if that is ok with E85 as I will be tuning on that in 3 weeks

type As are 260 in, 252 ex type Bs are 260 in, 260 ex type Rs are 250 in, 250 ex All have 9.15mm lift if you want as much low rev power you can go type Rs or leave the stock ones in and play with timing

I have upgraded some stuff so these are no longer needed, for R34 GTR 1) Apexi Power FC with hand controller and boost controller $1150 2) Blitz Nur spec 80mm SS cat back exhaust $550 3) Apexi pod filter kit $250 I can do a package deal with these and some -7s turbos, 600cc nismo injectors and nismo FPR $3500, I will only do these items as part of the package, otherwise they will go on my 32 located western sydney

the intake side is lower, replace them with new ones first, then if you look through the ones on the exhaust side there are a series of holes in line with the welsh plugs that the water goes through to get to the out side of the bores, you fill to the bottom of those holes, that way the water flow isn't impeded at all on the 30 block the front hole on the exhaust side is lower then the rest of the ones on exhaust side so you fill to the bottom of the front one the block MUST BE LEVEL and kept level till it sets, I got a bit of steel from an old wiper blade, bent the end over to a 90 and used it to oscillate the hardbloc to get it to level out and get out any air pockets

Nah I mean the actual fuel filter, not going to use braided

What you guys doing in the way of fuel filters, I've just started building the fuel system in my 34 and am looking for ideas

Better having the wastegate line longer then the signal line, either way one is going to be longer Yeah that's sound ok, just block anything that's not used so if you ever want to reconnect it its not got dust and shit in it Yeah that works, only thing I would do is bypass the T by picking up signal at the plenum and running a hose to the steel one that goes around the back of the head, in the pic it's at the top on the right side where it has "clamp" and four arrows running off it

The two hoses that join to the stock boost controller CAN NOT be joined and have to be blocked, other wise it will bleed off boost from the signal line as one of the lines runs back to the intake pipe of the back turbo I pick up the signal from the hose that come off the plenum run it to the boost solinoid which I put next to the steering shaft then run the wastegate line back up to the steel line that runs around the back of the head to the wastegates, which means I don't have to muck around the turbos and there is less heat on the intake side and the controller is near impossible to see

what about a spear digital output from ECU, now I have no deers eyes about computers so I probably wrong, but could you send the signal to the ECU then send a signal from the ECU to the display

this, breath in breath out Daniel son, 30 pistons maybe a resurface skim, 25 pistons .5mm 20thou, 26 pistons 2mm 80thou, the skirts are the same it's just the top height that comes down which is where the weight is saved just remember what we're doing is arming you with info and suggestions cause at the end of the day you have to make the choice of what you want to do, it's your car

Yeah 2mm 80thou, there is 3 comp height for RBs, you've got the 26 height then the 25 ones are 1.5mm 60thou higher and the 30 one are 2mm 80thou higher then the 26 ones, I've got the 25 ones and shaved .5mm 20 thou off the block to get zero deck height This is just what I would do if I did it again, what you do is your choice, the reason I would do it way is clearance above motor on mine is that tight I had to put washers under the strut brace to clear the twin turbo pipe, plus the liter piston, from memory it's 60grams less then the 25 ones I've got now, would make a difference at 8000rpm

Which I believe are the same rods as 26

Yes exactly, which will mean you need to machine 2mm off the block to get 0 deck height which will lower head 2mm, and believe me in the 34 it would've made a difference for clearance over the motor 26 head, its in a R34 GTR, you need to CC the head to get its volume to work out comp ratio but I think the 25 has a bigger combustion camber, there is only two pistons available from wisco for RBs, 25 or 26 and the only difference is the compression height, both have 14cc dome tops

thought this would the best place for this I brought the full Ross trigger wheel set, nearly $1900, and as part of the kit I got a convertor box to change the signal to standard nissan so the stock Ecu or PFC can read it, I've since gone a full stand alone ECU and don't need the convertor box any more so if anyone is interested in buying it and saving some coin PM me, it's still new in box never opened anyone tried different belt tensions to see if it makes a difference

I payed $1100 delivered for them thanks to the exchange rate at the time, get it with the 26 pistons though as they have a lower comp height and weighs less then the others, that's what I wished I had done but already had them by the time I figured it out get a zero deck height the measure the combustion chamber volume and work out how thick the head gasket needs to be, I think I used a 1.2mm tomei gasket with a quick shave off the head and managed to get 9.5/1 C/R

Go to eBay and search "wiseco rb", there is a package that has Wiseco piston and Manley rods Anything from 8.5-9/1 comp ratio will work nicely

For both above, I believe the block mount squirters release oil that should go to the bearings, and as much as I know the amount is not enough to make a big deffernce it's still oil released to put oil on something that already has plenty getting put on it, there is enough oil getting thrown from the big ends to coat everything with oil anyway

Oil travels through the block then through the crank into the rod big end bearings That hole is to squirt excess oil onto the bottom of the piston, I believe for cooling purposes, and not actually needed so don't worry about it there fine

What do you think the hole does ? Cause I'm getting the idea you think the oil goes in though the hole to lubricant the bearing

I think only the Nitto RB30 rods have the oil squirters

How exactly do you think the oil gets to the rod bearings ?

+1, id also like that car , good to see its coming back together like said before the only way it could get into the head is if it started there, the other piece could have easily gone down the back oil drain into the sump, if nothing is out of place in the head then there is the chance it has falling/left in there during the first build