XKLABA

This didn't happen and I still have not heard anything

30 thou is as close as most recommend clearance from piston to head. .8mm would be the smallest I would use

Sounds like what my 32 did, was broken ring land

rip the fuel cap apart and put a one way valve in it

Swap injectors first even if it's just to eliminate them, that is much easier then doing the HG

When you had -9s and I had -7s yours was heaps better response wise, I found the -7s to not be that great Stock ceramics FTW response wise though for sure

FYP, in THAT order for response, tho there is very little in response difference between -9s and -7s, I had -7s and I believe the -9s are a better all round turbos

that sound about right and my best guess is HG, just enough to upset the cylinder pressures

compression tests can lie !!!!, when engine is cold remove radiator cap then start motor and see if air comes out through the radiator when the motor is missing I have seen this happen, in very rare cases HG can seal at non operating pressures ( comp testing) but then "open" once the motor is at running pressures

I brought my 34 with -7s and type B poncams the changed them to type Rs, made a good difference, I did have a dyno graph for the type Rs but am unsure where it is, if I can find it I'll post it up the car made 309rwkw @ 19/20psi I was very happy with the difference and thought it was well worth what it cost after selling the type Bs edit, found it

their running great in my car, it's the surge tank setup stopping me from getting the tune finished I think their still to "new" to have enough available for good competitive pricing

Get your self a can of brake cleaner or contact cleaner ( I recommend these as they don't leave any residue behind ) then while the car is idling spray it around the throttle bodies particularly No 2, and see if the ie changes, sounds like a vac leak and these things are well known for it

r32 GTRs are mechanical, v spec 33 and 34 GTRs is active lsd controlled by the 4WD pump

Can the Haltech run coils directly, so say you got R34 coils and had the comp run them without an ignitor Would simplify the setup

He probably needed numbers for his stolen box, lol I'm using Royal purple syncromax in my Getrag

I had the 34 gearing put into a 33 sump with a quaife LSD, terry had to machine for the pinion gear clearance

are these still available ? if so PM me and I'll make an offer on the mediums

I like the Exedy Twin plate, I have used all manner of single plate including a custom twin spring plate making over 2000kg clamping force, all a pain in back side to drive and never lasted more then 9-12 months I would never use a single plate again after using the twin plate, especially in a GTR, there easier to drive feel nicer and last so much longer, though I race my cars a fair bit both drag and trackdays and texi, the twin plate has been in this car for over 7 years now and still going strong friction point can be adjusted and if a heavy pedal is what you want, very strange but hey each their own, disconnect the clutch booster

Would be interested to know for sure, I to thought it was 12v and the ECU controls it from the ground side

just to clarify, the boost controller is the unit that connects to the Power FC and is controlled by the Power FC, it consists of a map sensor that plugs into the ECU and a solenoid and adapter that connects to where the factory controller does the computer was last tuned by Unigroup for -7s, 600cc injectors, poncams and full exhaust @ 19psi

I have upgraded the computer on my 34 and no longer need these it is the computer it self with the hand controller and apexi boost controller to suit $1100 ono

MFD, Multi Function Display, R34 GTR where are located ?, I have a guy making me a voltage chaser, basically it takes a high imp input and puts out a low imp out put so it can supply the right signal voltage for more things to use, on mine I'm going to cut it in to the wire leaving the ecu, he made me a PWM switching unit for my fuel pump and it works perfectly

Nice choice Mark, always been a fan of the MX-5, ever since I came across one in my area with a mid-late 50s guy with a golf /drivers cap driving it up and down the HWY giving it to the falcodoor brigade and boy racers, his was the same shape as yours just blue with a nice set of rims and turbo charged, quite a quick little car and very unsuspecting Interested to see how this progresses and looking forward to chasing it around a track someday

My biggest gain in fuel economy was in the cam gear settings

I meant your equation, 70x12 or even 72x12 is going to give the wrong amount, tank size is irrelevant as you can't use a full tank full, you have to work it out off what you use funny thing about my 32 is I didn't build it for a power figure but for engine efficiency as the car has always been a daily driver and by uping the efficiency it also brought up the power level and made the car alot faster then it really should be if built right you can have a very fast car that does have good economy I have a diesel vehicle and it's not fun by any stretch of the imagination