XKLABA

I have the BC springs which we calculated bind at just shy of 13mm lift IIRC

If that is what your looking for then The ones I trying to get made would be exactly what you want, if I can get enough interest in them I'll see if I can get a group buy going Less duration then them with more lift

I'll see how I go, if I can get my hands on one I'll run over to UE and have a chat

I only have the 262 11.95 one here the other one is in the states as its theirs and they have the lobe specs, I just trying to get em to put it on a RB stick

For me about $1500 from the states, but I don't know anyone that does it so I pay full fare

I'm looking at getting a set custom made around there

Yeah if you still have the stock cams, put them in for sure, will make a significant improvement down low

Hi Sean, long time If your gonna throw it on the dyno how about trying to dial 8 deg retard into exhaust cam and see if that helps

it's funny how every thing he says rings true for his own behavior, there has been a few times where I have tried to help someone with info I have learned from the near 12 years of modifying GTRs just to have you quote what I have said a accuse me of trying to blow up some guys engine it also seems your opinion is the only one people should lesson to and heaven forbid someone have a different one to you and if they do you start foul language and name calling don't be mistaken, I would never say anything on here I wouldn't happily say to your face ok so the fact I have personally chosen a hand full of parts then fitted them myself and set them up to make my car run 11.1 on stock turbos means I know shit all about anything, and why, cause I kept hearing what the factory parts can't do so I wanted to see for myself what I can make them do, again must mean I know nothing about what I'm doing

that said if I was at my tuners and he had a serious customer and I didn't think he ( the potential customer) was a douche I would be happy to take them for a drive but how much can you learn from someone else driving you around the block, every thing feels different in the drivers seat, but I'm not pulling the car out of the shed and driving all the way over there just to take a stranger for a happy lap seems to me from the posts I've seem from you all you want to do is argue if you know what your looking at you can get a very good idea from a dyno graph but that's not what I said, I said find the smallest turbo that regularly gets the power you are after from results people have had in the dyno results thread, and if they have 1/4 mile times with mph you can get am even better idea, ET is an idea of setup and response while mph is a good idea of power to weight you said go to a reputable workshop and get them to take you for a run in some of their different setups, now I don't know where you get your car tuned but I'm yet to see a workshop that has various setup GTRs sitting around that are not customers cars, so what exactly are they suppose to take you for a drive in

this, go through the dyno results thread find the smallest turbo that regularly gets the power you are after and grab it, that way you get the power you want with the best response the only drama I have tho is how do you figure out how much power do you want ? building it step by step till you're at a point you are happy is the best way I can see

really, I think this is probably the most relevant recent post so far how can you know want you actually want from your car with out being able to live with any given setup for any given time, which is why I say you should build your car step by step till it gets to a point your happy, always making sure want ever mods you do will cover any possible future mods, ie don't put 3" exhaust if you are going to possible need a 3.5" at a later point, that is just an example before anyone jumps on me about how much a 3" can support

haha yeah so I'm gonna walk into a workshop that has never met me and say I'm think of building my GTR, do you care to drive me around the block in a dozen different cars ( GTRs no less) you just happen to have sitting around so I can get an idea of what I might want no better then that how about you take me for a thrash in a customers car or even let me thrash it a bit cause I need to drive it to feel it for myself I know if I left one of my GTRs that I just drop $20k+ on at the tuners and come back to find he had been take people for joy rides I'd be more then a bit pissed off what reputable work shop would actually do that, if you know of one let me know and I'll make sure not to take my car there what you do is develop your car step by step till you get it to a point where you are happy with it cause really how do you know what you want from your car till you have experienced it on a regular basis where you can say I want more or I've gone to far or it's perfect as is, which you can't do from a 5-10min drive around the block, then you also learn what mods give what gains depending on what experience you have from previous setups you have had (if any ) you will have a good idea for a starting point and where you want the car to be and what you want to do with it

T517Zs ? I to an a fan of this turbos going for a drive to see how someone's turbos go is pointless really as the responsiveness and outright power of the turbo is dictated by supporting mods as much as the turbo it self, so unless you can go for a drive in several cars where only the turbos are different ( including tuner ) then you can not really compare them I have been if cars with -5s that are more responsive then others with -9s

Any chance a rag or some form of obstruction got in to the intercooler and partially blocking it I once found a 13mm ring open ended in the pipe work in my 32

depends how bad the leak is and how good the idle control is, the idle control valve will close to get the vacuum right for idle ( which is what causes hunting on most cars as it tries to figure out why it has to go outside its operating range to get idle, basicly ) hunting at idle or unusually high idle are the best tells of a vac leak

So was the tuner that first fitted and tuned my PFC and it was horrible and cost a small fortune, changing the dump pipes is a big job 8-10hours on a stockish car, a little bit less if you have done it a few times or have stuff removed like ABS, job best done when changing turbos or motor is out, that said the gain on a 32 is worth it If you decide to do the cam gears PM me when you have them on and I'll give you some settings to try to start with Where are you located and who is tuner, PM if you don't want to say on here

Any thing over 2800rpm is instant boost and it is a very angry car The cam gears made a big difference both in response and top end The Z32s are the best option when using the Power FC Not custom, I have these ones http://www.cesracing.com.au/products_2.htm The two at the bottom right, I have the silver ones on the 32 and the black ones on the 34, what have you got ? The EVC just means I can easily change boost level with the touch of a button, the type of controller I have means the wastegate doesn't creep open till the car gets very close to the preset boost level Setup and tune have alot to do with, my car was initially tuned by a very well known tuning company in sydney and it was rubbish drove like shit and I only picked up 0.1 seconds on the quarter, changed there bodgy Z32 adapters to the apexi ones and took it to Insight, drove better then it did when factory and picked up another 0.5 second one the quarter going from 11.8 to 11.36

Stock R32 GTR ceramics, I have Apexi Z32 pod filter kit with Z32 AFMs UAS cold air feed Adjustable cam gears CES racing pump pipes and front pipe MetalCat cat convertor, has since been changed for HKS cat convertor HKS Superdragger cat back Greddy oil cooler, no filter relocator Exedy twin plate HKS EVC 4 Apexi Power FC

Yeah that's not right, I have 293rwkw @ 19psi on stock turbos, you should have more then me on same boost not 50kw less

No, they are all the same length Yes, the 32 ones are just garbage, the 33 ones where a massive improvement over the 32 and the 34 are fabricated instead of cast but IMO don't offer much if any of an improvement in flow over the 33 Split V bell, if the split is designed correctly then the split are better IMO, it is just easier to get the bell mouth to work then the split I use both of the CES racing designs, factory replacement ones on the 32 and the longer race ones on the 34, when I'd did the 34 ones that was all that changed, unfortunately it didn't go on the same dyno for retune though it did need more fuel as they made it a little lean

The cooling system was bleed properly yeah, cause if there is a air pocket in the head above the combustion chamber it will creat a hot spot No cat and straight through exhaust will create no problems, it's usually the cat that creates this kind off issues

Alternator was my next guess, what about the earth straps from motor the chassis, where they all put back on

For cam timing to be an issue it would have to be a few teeth out, and that is easy checked, and given they have done it three or more times it would have surely been found, a couple of deg won't cause this which is what skimming the head/block would cause is only a couple of deg, even though it does sound like the exhaust cam timing, where the cams put in the right way around, obviously they are or the CAS wouldn't go in My 32 has the cams adjusted over 10deg each way with no issues Were all the sharp edges left from skimming head/block removed from both When you dropped the exhaust on the dyno where did it get dropped from What changed from before car was stolen and after getting it going again, cause if it was not having this issue before and is now then its clearly something that has been changed What coils did you replace the melted ones with, did you change the coil loom and igniter as well Try the CAS

And use iridium plugs so you only change them every 100,000km