XKLABA

I think front bar is fine, side skirts and rear pods - fine, front guards - to far A GTT no t with a Z-Tune kit is the same as a lancer with an EVO kit, def not right

What's your budget ? How good do you want it to handle ? 4.2deg is to much on any tyre, about 3-3.2 is good Is your rear sway bar adjustable ? Soften the rear shocks and sway bar a bit and see what happens Personally I like the race spec Teins or Bilstien

Fixed, I have Exedy twin in my 32 which runs 11.1, has been there for 8 years of massive abuse and still going Nismo twin was an Exedy twin

I'm gonna have a set for sale soon with Project Mu discs and pads, PM me if interested

Hahaa, Gotta laugh when a 16sec NA corolla is on the back road before the other car comes off the trans brake

I may have missed it but is there any reason you don't go a dirty thirty since your going to build a forged motor anyone, will deffenintly help with response, both off the start line and between gears

That explains why you haven't posted a lap time, you keeps turning around redoing corners

Have you got a dyno graph, HP v boost The angle and location of where the WG rejoins the exhaust is less then ideal IMO, it should have been put into the back of the bend at a less angle If the cat is 100 cell 5" bodied and intact it shouldn't be a problem They should have dropped it to confirm, I'd agree on the CAS been a possible problem as already stated

I once had a dude in a R34 GTT-t with a GTR badge on it try and get me to race him in my BNR32, I told him he is dreaming and to take his GTT pos home ( no offence to GTT owners as even you guys would have called this thing a pos ) he then swear blind it was a GTR with a single turbo conversion The look on his face when I pointed out the 4wd had been " converted " to

My old -7s went 21psi all the way to 8000, no probs, if your worried about it then go the -9s, very little difference in response but don't fall of as much as -7s

Good to see its fixed and your happy with it What parts did you end up going for ?

I missed this post, I get my stuff from the local clutch shop

Or you can get Pauls cams from Unigroup

Not if you can't get the air to the ports

Cooler

What car/ airbox was that ?I'm hoping for that or close to it with the R34 box

I have two them on my car, they flow heaps

If the motor is out and you have to do diff anyway then it's a good time to put the quaife in, but as Duncan said its not a necessity to pull the diff apart from a running car until you have big power spinning tyres but while it's apart it's a good mod to do

260s if all you want is a tough lumpy note, 250s if you want response and drive

I got mine from palmside and iirc it was about $1300 landed It's a geared limited slip diff for the front so imagine the back with a limo and how much better it grips now add to that one in the front so now you have all 4 wheels trying to move the car forward instead of 3The Tarzan controller like most of them is a way of tricking the computer to active the 4WD faster and harder making the front wheel come in sooner with more torque, then add to that the transfer case mod and this things really start moving

It's not a Nissan light, it is a generic Hella used for compliance so head to auto barn and have a look through there catalog

Mine cost a bit more then normal cause I wanted the girdle closed and line bored cause of the girdle studs

For this was about $1700 iirc

I'd be more worried how it will effect your tune, the reduction in back pressure would require fuel be added which means your engine is leaning out - not good

If it is the Exedy version get the hi torque rebuild kit