XKLABA

So you tested the spark at the plug yeah and no spark, was that with a new plug or the plug out of the cylinder covered in fuel If an injector is locked open it will give similar results and foul the plug, if there is no spark with a new or known working plug then it's electrical, so if you have changed plugs - coils - loom - ECU, then what's left, would have to CAS

Could be an injector

Have you changed the ignitor module as previously mentioned ? That is most likely your problem If not then CAS next, both are well known to fail and drop one cylinder There is a thread in here with instructions for swapping the GTR ignitor with the Z32 300zx one which is less known for failure

Drop the blue bung and then red bung, let the oil out, reinstall blue bung then fill red hole till the oil starts coming out then reinstall red bung - done The transfer case and ATTESA are two completely different things Transmax Z or equivalent is fine for transfer case, as for the ATTESA system I use the genuine Nissan special bleed

That's what I did, drilled and tapped a an -16 in the block webbing on the hot side and run it to the back of the head and two an -12s on the intake side going to the cam covers, car has made 623hp at all 4 so far with no issues so far, RB30 block I have found over the years if you track your car, which I do, and you over fill the oil to the bump in the stick which you should if you track your car then turning hard left under boost does happen, as PIGGAZ experienced at SMSP last year when his catch can over flowed making a big mess in his engine bay James, yes but it's best to run it to an open area ie the Nismo catch can, to slow the flow of air/oil to give it somewhere it can seperate before joining the head and use as big of a hose as possible to reduce the air/oil velocity through volume

Sump is to low, it needs to come of the block

It's more a crank case breather then a drain either way if it isn't a problem leave it there

Yeah I drilled a massive hole through the braket, machined down the fitting and extended the thread so it went past the hole for the factory pick then locktight thread sealed it in ten off that 45ed down under the compressor then 90 into sump, I have pics but can't up load then on here I'm the same getting to old for no A/C lol

If I'm right and the hoses are wrong then who ever I stalled it turn it into a manual boost controll

How exactly do you set a manual bleed valve with a compressor ? And if you can do it that way how does it allow for the pressure in the manifold trying to push open the wastegate flap ? With the controller turned off it should run up to wastegate pressure, what happens when you do that, or is that when you get 16psi ? My guess is still the hoses have been done the wrong way, get the operators manual and double check their on the right way

I welded a pick up to the bottom of the sump then ran a pipe out the side of the sump in AN-12 and ran a hose up to the side of the pump then drill and tapped a fitting in to the side of pump

Front or rear or both

Switching it out for a known working one is the best/easiest way if you can get one What does it make with the controller off, or if you put a joiner where the solenoid is Has this boost controller worked prior to this or is it a new fit and never worked right

It is most likely hoses on the wrong way after rebuild, go back and recheck your work Has it worked at all in its current state, if so it could be a faulty solenoid, if not then check the hoses are right To check actuators you have to apply air pressure at different levels and measure how far the arm has moved on both to make sure they have moved the same difference, manual bleed valve will not fix this, this will most likely not limit you to 16psi either You will also need to check preload on the actuators, done the same way as above, but this time record the movement vs pressure appied, IIRC they should start to open about 2psi under what they should set at and be fully open about 7psi over, this is because they don't have the manifold pressure pushing the gate open internally, I could be a bit off with these as I haven't done it in a long time, and this is most likely the problem Not enough air flow would result in over boosting as it doesn't have enough air to open the gates and shut gates means no bypass which gives to much boost What happens if you turn off the boost controller

Find out why you can not dial in boost, sort that then dial boost up to 22-24 psi, that should see you a lot close to the 500rwhp mark What boost controller have you got, did you check the actuators where set correctly and identically

If their doing all the prep then good but if not then it's pretty much wasting time, as for me cleaning the studs it depends on how dirty they are I guess that's where I different, I don't go to shops that use apprentices ( though if i need something done to a wheel i take it off at home and run it down in the ute anyway) and if I do have to for some strange reason I would either do it myself or for sure would check their work, the shop I use I haven't seen an apprentice there yet in the 10 years they have been doing my tyres Nah the internal hex key type he is referring to are actually quite easy the crack, I did it a few times when I had em on a corolla I had many years ago, way way before I could get hold of a rattle gun so that was by hand, I refuse to use them cause of it That brings up another point, what torque setting do you use for after market/non genuine nuts and studs

Using a torque wrench on a new car yeah fine but a 20 year old car with 20 years worth of grime and anti seize paste and what ever else has been applied to the studs aswell as 20 years of wear on the studs will give all sorts of variations in torque settings, so like I said, unless you properly clean both stud and nut before torquing it then you may very well not be torquing it up tight enough or if the stud is excessively wore then a torque setting for a new stud could mean youre do it to tight Which defeats the purpose of using a torque wrench as well as that it isn't that important that the studs are all exactly the same level of tight, the average person with a tyre wrench doing as tight as they can is plenty tight enough What I find amusing is the people saying that is how it should be done and that is the right/best way and make doing it any other way sound incorrect or the wrong way to do it If your not confident enough to be doing up the nuts that hold the wheels on your car then maybe you shouldn't be or should get someone that knows to show you how

Reading people using torque wrenches on wheel nuts makes me chuckle Unless you properly clean both threads and apply assemble lube how consistent do you think the torque wrench is going be I not some teenage apprentance that has never had any real experience with cars and/or mechanics, I wasnt asking for advice i was simple stating how I do it, I have been doing this many years and know my tools and how tight something is by feel from my experiences

I don't think so, I still think the correct cams dialed in properly with the right turbo-cam combo will give good enough results to not warrant the money for VCT, find away to add the lift and duration change aswell as timing and then that would be worth the $1K US their asking Just my 2c

yeah 3/4 cordless electric, I use it for the nuts on my truck, so no misprint The Rays alloys are a lot stronger the steel nuts funny enough given their wieght and I would deffenintly only use it on genuine Nissan studs not the crap Autobarn shitters I do em up till the nut stops and that's it I never ever sit there rattling away like the tyre mobs do I've been doing it this way for a number of years now on both cars without any dramas

Yeah, their two completely different cars to drive on the edge is stock form, as far as drive line is concerned that is, the 34 doesn't always spin both back tyres in the middle of a turn unless pushed very hard making it a bit unpredictable and then by the time you've got them spinning the front has kicked in already pulling you straight, the 32 is the oppersite, in a straight line the 34 has sooo much more initial grip, but most of that is the transfer case being preloaded in the 34 http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WpQETVmmS7w At 1.15mins is an example of me pushing hard enough then 5secs later me pushing a bit to hard I haven't punted it yet with the quaife in the front fitted I have a spare R32 diff and new R34 gearing which I'm going to but in the rebuilt 32 diff and then jam it in the 34

I use a cordless Milwalkee 3/4 rattle gun with a single hex deep socket as tight as it'll go, the steel nuts I use to use ended up pulling the thread out of it so I now use Rays nuts same way and no more issues

Haha yeah I know, but the next one down was " only " 6.9L/min and we figured that would be border line for my setup leaving no room for growth

And the Walbro E85 pump flows more then the Nismo and 044 Wow didn't I overkill my setup with 11.3L/min

Hey Nesh, to have a chat with Terry at Award about rebuilding your standard diff tighter, that's the easiest and most likely cheapest way for pretty much the same result I don't know about the rear diff but the quaife front diff is a gear résistance limo and doesn't 100% full lock which is what makes it so good for the front where you want the back it to full lock on acceleration