XKLABA

Does it work in your car ?

May just need adjusting

Interesting, is that on a 2.6,2.8 or 3.0, I have had good success with the twin GT-RSs so far but the exhaust side is becoming a restriction on the 3.0 So even the TD05s with the slightly bigger exhaust wheel and a good comp wheel should help Will be interested to know if the 68HTA comp wheel can be fitted to either TD05s or TD06s

How hard would it be to fit the 68hta wheels to the TD06 if one got the non billet type pair ?How would the the billet 18g wheel comparing to the 71mm GT wheel of the GT-RS, or even fit the 68hta wheel to the TD05, with the bigger exhaust wheel should let the exhaust side breath out better, even more so for the TD06 What's the difference between 16-18-20g wheels ?

What would be interesting is the TD05-20g with the 9 blade rear wheel and that 68mm billet compressor Edit; found em http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/271447837223?cmd=VIDESC

And with the billet wheel and all

And for that price I am concidering replacing the GT-RSs on my 30

You mean like this http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/281305058842?nav=SEARCH

They have a 12 blade 56mm exhaust wheel, where the -5s are a 53mm, to big for a 2.6 to make any resemblance of response, they need to on a 2.8 or bigger with big lift cams, even so they should make 350rwkw+ with 24psi

No offence but that's horrible, my stock turbo 32 make 293rwkw on 19psi, is there an issue in your setup like a blockage or a unknown restrictor or something, i looking at these turbos as they a fairly close to the T517z spec wise and would have expected a lot more from them

its a confidence I have built up over the years of breaking them so I've decided that I am putting the O2 sensors into the factory location and the EGTs will go into the manifold collector at a later date

I have 9.15mm lift ( all boltin poncams are this )in my head with no clearance issues, 9.5 is the limit with 32mm base cicle, obviously the smaller base circle the more lift so if you go to a 31mm base circle them you can go 10.5 lift, 10.4 is what I would do as a max on a stock head, before clearance becomes an issue, you just have to get thicker buckets and good spring, 9.15 is as far as I would go without springs Just a tip, less lift less volume - more lift more volume, which do you think is going to spool a turbo faster ?

I'm only looking at the factory location due to room and hassle of fitting, the factory O2 location is easy enough to get ATM, ideally the collector area in the manifold would be ideal and definitely something I will be looking at when the motor comes out next time, and given it a running GTR its only a matter of time now

I am about to do twin EGTs and twin Lambdas in to my R34 GTR and want to know what people are using and where you have placed them My ECU will take any 5 wire O2 sensor so long as I can get the values for it otherwise it is preprogrammed for the NTK LZA-09-E1s, which I plan on putting at the start of the front pipes before the CATs My ECU has twin K type thermocouple inputs for EGTs and they recommend 1.5-3mm hi inconel SS probe, which I plan on putting into the hole where the factory O2 sensors go Any ideas or comments or suggestions, feel free to add any ideas you guys have

Anthony with the Powertune R34 GTR had one making over 800rwkw Search for it, he has a build thread about it Edit, here ya go http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/356324-project-gtrb28-powertune-australia-built/?hl=%20powertune%20%20r34 And sorry it was a 2.8

depends on the adapter plate kit, the one I used there is no way in hell you can do it while the engine is assembled, if you have one of the ones that just bolts on then yeah should be possible I have just done the 2630 into my R34 GTR and my advise is this DON'T DO IT, get the BC 2.9 kit and be done with it since your not putting in the Whole engine and are going to use all the factory emission gear, engineering shouldn't be a problem, if you use the stroker kit no engineering required RB25 head studs is what I used with the 26 washers under the ARP washers to take up the extra length, as the nuts on mine bottomed out, and spread the load as the ARP washers are smaller the the 26 ones OD so they dont sit very nice in the head, car has made 467awkw @ 28psi so far with out any problems

R34 rear also, the getrag box is longer, so longer front shaft and shorter rear shaft

The Bs are a joke, [email protected] The Ss dont give a lift WTF There are two Cs again WTF One of the Cs is [email protected] The other is 272@10 None of these would be particular nice in a street car, or track car for that matter They also don't seem to have a very sharp ramp rate

It depends what RPM you want the engine to work in, if your happy spinning it to 10k then those cams are ok What lift are they ? Personally I would never use 272s on a road car, 260s max I have 250 poncams in ATM and they are quite nice alround My advice, and although I'm just some clown on the Internet, would be get the head here and put the Unigroup cams in it

You know the cam covers are isolated by rubber and won't earth the plug, earth it on one of the bolts holding down the coil bracket100 psi won't kill a cylinder, 20 likely would

An oscilloscope reads the voltage signal wave and displays it on a sceen so you can see it to see what is getting sent to the ECU, completely different to a timing light 130 is low but not enough to kill the cylinder altogether, 140 is on its way to be low, 145 is exceptable, 150 is your norm with the tester your using, so you didn't put oil in any of the cylinders yeah ? What did you mean by 105/140 ?

Yeah, 9.5ltr performance metalcraft sump and with the platinum sump adaptor it puts it around 10 ltrs, plus overfilling to the bump Yeah, I always fill to the bump, the more oil you can get in the sump the better without overfilling it to the put it hydraulics and the bump seems to be the norm nowadays, there are many reasons to have extra oil in the engine, oil pooling in the head is just one When you understand the why of why oil "pools" in the head then it is actually fair easy to rectify and I have done what I think is enough to stop this happening, on top of what I have mentioned I also have a an -12 line as a drain from the bung between the exhaust manifolds and all the internal drains have been drilled out to 10mm and the rear drains opened up to the gasket holes, so oil getting traped in the head shouldn't be an issue for me now Lol skinning a cat, I like the 12gauge approach, hit it with as many things as possible and hope it works

I bought one to find a signal issue in the new motor then found out the ECU I have has one built in, bonus, so I took it back

An oscilloscope can tell you if the CAS is not working right What was the result from the last comp test, 6 had no or very little comp ?

There are so many variables that the only way to know is throw it on the dyno and see I built a 2630 with twin GT-RSs and 9.5:1 static comp on E85 and I only expected to run 24psi and so far we're up to 28, went 30 but the spark gets blown out, but going from 26 to 28 it picked up 25hp at all 4, when we sort the spark issue then we will try 30 and see what happens, if it picks up another 20-25 HP we'll try 32 and so on till it no longer makes decent gains or get to high of a knock level Boost doesn't kill engines poor tuning and preignition does