XKLABA

Thanks Zebra I'm a Kiwi and buggered if I'm going drive around with no tunes, so its not just a wog thing I have but the tyres I had on it where crap, Faulken semi craps lol, these setting working pretty good with them, when I change the rear lower control arms I will knock it back to 2deg The R34 is heavier then the 32 from the get go, and given it is suppose to be a street car I'm not to worried about weight, when I first bough it the old owner had completely striped it out and it weighed 1480kgs, I raced it the day after I brought it and weighed it then before putting it back together Michael, I agree with what Simon said

Missed this bit 1.69 60'

Thanks mate, Toyo TQs in 255/?/16s, haha I forgot the profile 1760 is about the same, mine is 1770 with my fat arse in it 9ltr surge tank and a 7kg pump, all new line with original ones still there, two amps and the woofers for the front splits are 5kgs each, RB30 half grout filled plus a heap of other, it all adds up The R32 is either 1408 or 1480, can't remember

It's being built to circiut, 3deg camber on front and 2.5 rear

Went to the drags tonight Car weighed in at 1661kgs plus 108kgs for me And with a less then Ideal run it ran 10.88 @ 132.23mph on 24psi and was politely asked to GTFO

Lol yep that would be me The T618z are what I wanted for this build but couldn't find any for sale and settled for Piggys GT-RSs, and as much as they make good power with decent response on the 3.0 the exhaust side is choking it Now that I'm getting a bit of white smoke I'm thinking they are on their way out so now trying to decide between TD05s or 06s, I think the TD05s with the billet 18g comp wheel and 9 blade rear should show decent improvements on what I currently have with out hurting the response to much, but then there is the TD06s with the billet 20g wheel and 9 blade rear that would make massive power for low mounts but at what cost to response

Mines 93 and its finned, I have a 90 Nismo spec car diff that is fined also

It's apart anyway now, so good clean - check rings for cracking - hone - rings - bearing - studs - HG - water pump - thermostat - some paint ( for some bling ) - put it back together and enjoy

I thought you had too , that is very interesting, how hard would that be to get "GTR" housing to make it a bolton for RB26s, looks like I might be up for new turbs soon so that maybe an option, the billet Kando bolton TD05-18g are what I was thinking but these give me something to think about

No they can't, that's a lie, Paul drive that box like its from a yaris

You don't lose money on cars till you sell them, until then you are enjoying money spent I put all my spare moneys on my home loan till I want to buy something like a gearbox then redraw from the extra I have payed, not draw against the house equity, that way while I'm saving the money for whatever I am saving interest on the home loan Paying interest when you don't have to or can't claim is crazy, home loan is really a must so is business equipment, but on a sports car is just nuts and a true waste of cash

I with Paulie on this one, its a hobby so if I can't afford to pay cash for it I simple cant afford it My reason is if I finance it then break it then what

I was looking at the Albins, $22k plus Get Stuffed Tax, but my god that box is crazy and worth every cent, you can run a torque convertor and clutch at the same time with that box, it has paddle shift option, and changeable final drives for fast changes at the track My brother has the 5 speed transaxle type in his race car and they are very nice to drive, the GTR one is the trophy truck box I didn't know the Modena had a GTR option, last time I looked at them they didn't, pretty sure they are straight cut also

They range from 4.083 to 4.363

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=337751 Found it, dam SR20 auto

Yeah, 4.11s, I don't mind a couple of extra rpm at 110 to save a zkwilions dollars

LOL

2122 at 100km, to low even for the dirty thirty Those 4.11 results look the goods but

2334rpm 8000/377=21.22 21.22x110=2334 Would most definitely give good 0-100km times

Limiter is set to 8500 soft and 8750 full, and at 110 for free way use

And what does it sit on at 110, my guess is idle haha

Like the Nismo cough Toyota cough fuel pump lol He's talking about my R34 with 3.545s I know the 3.9s are available in a auto rear wheel drive R200 diff from some thing just can't for the life of me remember what, we looked in to it for the BSM car while it was still in IP Thanks for that, a bit tall I thinks, may have to put one of the 4.11 sets I have in it, which is good cause now I can just drop the spare R32 rear diff ( late model big shaft one ) straight in For shits and giggles do it with 275/35/19s lol

OS88 group buy, come on Paul you know you want it

That's is another point, the quaife is straight cut noisy and the OS88 is helical cut so not as noisy Well said

First, like your first two posts in the thread, that most no sense, so um yeah right Second, unless I forget how to read when I enter this thread you lost power putting the Spool head on, 450 to 440 is a lose if my math is correct, or is it 420-490 some where tuner/dyno dependant, so this new motor has made 1000hp or that just what your hoping for cause please correct me if I'm wrong but a motor that hasn't started makes 0hp, so who is dribbling shit know Thirdly, I'm not into drag racing, I prefer circuit but you tell someone you run 1.07around Wakefield you get a vacant look but you tell em you run 11.1@123mph they get am idea, and given i live 10 minutes from the drag strip if I get home early from work on wednesday and feel like going fast I shot down to the drag strip for some fun, so driving to QLD to drag race is not happening, I did drive the VIC last year for Winton on Friday and DECA on Saturday, we have something like what you said you have in QLD here yeah so next time you come down for that shot me a PM and I'll come out for that and I'll race your 1000hp maybe car