XKLABA

Hey Glen, How goes things mate ? No, he is saying use the pins to hold down the bonnet, which is illegal in NSW even tho it works better on a CF bonnet, you can have them providing they are flush mount and not the only method of holding the bonnet down Can the U get spaced down at all like with washers or some thing, how is it attached to the bonnet Michael

Id say that's a her so yeah her car is a boy

Cheers Nick, will do, I got the last spot last year, not going to leave it that long this time

If the ringlands are gone then chances as the bore a scratched so it depends if the damage can be bore out or not, on the other hand if the cheap or free RB30 block just needs a hone and rings and bearing then RB30>RBless capacity any day of the week and twice on Sunday And the RB30 is an easier fit in to a R33 GTS-t then any GTR and plenty of GTR owners ( me included ) haven't gone to the trouble of fitting them for no reason

I would be checking with the insurer about age limit cause I'm fairly sure cams is 16years old ( but could be wrong ) and while you can psychically do the courses with with someone younger if something happens " I thought " isn't going to help you, this really is one of those things you really need to know for sure for insurance and liability reasons

It's been awhile since I had Type BS but from memory the setting I used where 4 adv on intake and 9 ret on ex giving a 106 lobe centres, when I brought the car the cams where at 12deg on in and 14deg on ex which made it lumpier the a bridge port The markings are in crank degrees so one mark is 2degs on crank

I have a 1/8 CEN Nemesis nitro truggy and a 1/8 Acme Dominator brushless truggy We take them to the local BMX track and get massive air time, there is a 9m canyon jump the brushless clears quite easily but the Nitro has to get the 5m step up and 7m canyon right to make the 9m one, lots of laughs to be had watch them fly

SMSP in September ? Do tell, was going to try and get to Wakie on the Qs Bday but not going to be ready in time

12 years on and I still miss my little Rolla Mmmmm Minis, I too looked at doing one of them when I found a company in the UK that do a conversion kit to put with a Honda motor and box or a Hyabusa motor and box with an electric motor for reverse in the back of the Mini

Still !!! I must have the " angry carnt " function turned on

Queens BDay Monday, like two or three weeks away At Quakers hill/Narimba tafe http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/442894-saunsw-texikhana-9th-june-at-nirimba-tafe/

You got that dam box in yet

This is the funist build thread I've read in a while Before I got my first GTR me and a few mates where into stupidly overpowered FWDs I had a AE92 SX seca with a VF24 WRX turbo, made just over 200fwkw 1 mate had a 2 door charade with a 1.6 feroza motor and a S14 200sx turbo, not sure on power Another had a Starlet with a 4AGTE motor, made IIRC 220fwkw Another had a AE82 fastback with a full built 4AGTE with S14 turbo made 236fwkw, this thing would fry tyres at 110 and started to pull the strut towers away from the firewall All 4As where ZEs with turbos swapped in and 100kw inlet manifolds And finally one had a Micra that looks like yours but had a CA18 turbo in it and was a ball of fun to drive, like a go kart on serious steroids And more pics plz

Josh, are you in Sydney? Ifso I'm going to try and get out to the next Texi for a looksee and will be taking the 34 out come down and I'll take you fora run My car wasn't tuned to be lumpy it just happened that way , but yeah you can quite safely tune for a lumpy idle, cam timing can also make it lumpy, when I first bought the car it was setup with 260 poncams and was lumpier the a bridge port 13b I pulled up next to not my thing would rather a nice calm idle

It's more tyre then size, my 255/50?/16 Toyo TQs hold the power way way better then the 275s ( yes I actually got 16" R32 GTR wheels on my 34 ), the NT01s are basically a Toyo R888 anyway so if you already have them they will be way good enough, if you have to buy then then you may as well get 9.5s and go 275s Same tyre then bigger wins

I have 250 poncams in a 26/30 and it has quite a nice tough lumpiness to the idle but low end power is just awesome and it drive hard from about 2200rpm, below that and the gearbox starts to labour IMO the right cams and turbo configuration setup right and the 26 head wins, that said the worlds fastest toughest RBs run 25 neo heads yeah!! Oh wait no they don't

An NT01 in 255 will be fine an NT01 in 275 will be better Edit : will add I have 265/35/18 Hankook Z221s I will be running on my 34 with well over 400kws for track and have Hankook Z222s RS3s 275/35/19 for every day use and they do a admiral job of holding on

Deano that's it isn't it, if 4" isn't enough then its time it was a real dedicated race car My setup was good enough to flow 467AWKWs from shitty GT-RSs on a 3.0

I got some of the silver version for around $40 for 24" x 24" for where my exhaust gets a bit close to the surge tank, I have some left over if you want it and if its enough Most motor bike shops have some stuff that will happily live touching the exhaust, they use it for the plastic flaring when it is to close to the exhaust

I got a HKS Super Dragger rear cannon which is 8" round, cut it up and opened it out to 4" using rolled SS perforated sheet wrapped with inox and packed it with GTB with one end of the SS perf tube slipped over the 4" pipe but not welded to allow for growth Then headed over to Windsor exhaust where I got a twin 3" or 3.5" ( I can't believe I forgot wht size it is )with twin 5" bodied cats ( yes real working cats ) into single 4" mid muffler through to my backyard jobby rear muffler, all in coated mild steel cause I believe mild steel is quieter then SS as it lets the sound out the whole way instead of just out the rear end, its just what I believe doesn't mean I'm right Deano, nice work, where you joined the two 3" pipes into the single 4" is that two 90deg bends welded together then a 4" hole cut in and 4" pipe welded onto it ?

It's the water feed for the turbos and it is most certainly not meant to be like that

If you remove the line at the actuators then yeah they won't open and you will have unlimited boost That sensor is for the gauge but the ECU uses it to confirm boost level to run/activate the solenoid, I ran upto 20psi on the stock computer with no boost cut just pumped out lots of black smoke

That was my idea also, will now look at the Haltech EGTs

Find a diagram of the boost control lines so you can understand how the system works, the factory wastegates on a R32 GTR are 10psi, blocking at the boost solenoid will give you 10psi If you have a leak you will see plumes of black smoke out the back, easily visable in the rear view after a big hit of the throttle I would look at the hose going to the map sensor next to the brake master, if the factory/nistune/PFC ECU doesn't get a signal from that then it shuts the boost solenoid and gives you 10psi

No fancy cams gears ? Got some details on the EGTs ? And better pics if possible, looking for ideas for mine