XKLABA

I upgraded my whole system to -8 speedflow 200 PTFE braided hose bypassing all the factory stuff, I figured it is carrying the only fluid in the car that can potentially burn the whole car to the ground so why on earth would you use cheap shit and risk losing the whole car just to save a few dollars, cheap eBay hoses leak and cheap eBay fitting don't seal properly when used with E85, its just not worth the risk It really depends on your setup and wether the factory lines are big enough to flow what you need, if so the just replace the rubber hoses with E85 stuff and flush out the steel lines to get rid of any crap that's in them before the E85 cleans it into your fuel rail I had to upgrade for my setup and due to putting a surge tank under the boot it made it easier to just new lines, as well as a 10micron screen filter and Ethanol sensor where easier to in stall as there are fittings to go straight onto them

When someone has pulled the box out they have let the box down still attached to motor bringing the back of the motor onto the bolt Sloppy workmen ship

I must have mis read what crash wrote cause to me it said only 15-18 year old passengers would have to sign the indemnity form

Ok so get yourself onto your "private" road lined up ready to go Then on the display from where the count down screen push the M button 5 times, it will most likely come up 0- 1, then push the S button to scroll through till you get 0- 4, once that is displayed in a few seconds it will start beeping and flashing once that happens you are all set and it will automaticly start timing as soon as the start to move Note, you MUST have the rpm and Kmh hooked up and set correctly

It's actually 0.33 of a second difference but that run was only 24psi 436kw not the 28psi that did 458kw, there is a 250kg difference between the two cars, it's the MPH that tells the tale of power difference The 32 is really just a freak of a car that I have been racing for over a decade so I know how to get the best out of it and with a bit more setup and seat time I believe there is another 0.5 sec to be had from the 34 Brb just going to have a look at the TT now

I'm gonna guess mid-high 11s with a good run given your setup and the tuner

I have the HKS turbo timer in my 32, so yeah I know a bit about them There is a 0-400m function and is pretty accurate providing you don't get to much wheel spin Will go through it tomorrow and let you know how the set it up

He is on a "private" Rd that has no timing just practise runs

I would go 1 further then that and make ALL passengers sign the indemnity form and for 15-18 year olds have the parent or guardian sign the indemnity form as well, maybe post a PDF with the form to fill out and sign before hand if the parent/guardian can't make it on the day, it is just not worth the trouble should ( heaven forbid ) something goes a miss

He is saying the problem is if you do not have ABS then it will have a tendency to lock the fronts with not much help from the back end

Lol just line em up and lower car to rest on em then take pics

11.3@125 stock every thing in full weight R32 11.1@123 new HG and big ends bearings on drag radials with 293rwkw

FYP and agreed

That's not the attitude, you should at least try and fit em

They are actually 10psi and the factory solenoid bleeds off boost to get them to 12psi then pull the restrictor so it can bleed faster and you get 15psi If you get stuck its not going anywhere, just shot me PM

Mate, I have a dead GTR turbo, worn out bearings, here that has the stock 10psi actuator still on it you can have for the cost of postage if you want, I'm sure that will bolt straight on

All my launches are at the preped drag strip with good tyres, do that on the road with not so good tyres and it will end up very messy Try 5k first then 6k then 7, you will know which works best, then add 1k when you go to the drag strip

I have a R34 GTR with a 3.0ltr making 458kw at all 4 with a triple plate Exedy and stock Getrag 6 speeder that just ran a [email protected] after weighing in at 1661kgs with out me My cars is more responsive with more power and torque every where then yours Dial in 7k get clutch to friction point loading drive line then progressively release clutch while pushing down the loud pedal in a balancing act to keep it on song, you ideally you want a bit of wheel spin to stop it bogging down NEVER EVER let the clutch go from the floor boards by moving foot sideways cause that is a sure fire way to brake something That what I have learnt from years and years of launching both my R32 and R34 GTRs, like previous info ive given you can use it or not

hahaha, Until they away with the one tool you really really need God love em but stay out of my dam shed, lol

Wasn't actually sure how it worked, looks like it is the only thing on the MFD that gets it signal directly from the ECU, I have found pin 17 from the factory ECU is a injector signal for a "Ti monitor" that must be what I need to connect to, so next question Does anyone know what the signal is, 0-5v maybe ? Or can I just activate a 7th injector signal and connect it to that wire ?

Yes, most all are just EV14s that ID buy then flow and match, except the 1300s which are IDs design and made to IDs specs just made at Bosch using their casing, I believe and could be wrong but ID have a patent on the 1300s

So I fitted ID1300s to my R34 GTR and now the MFD doesn't display injector duty, anyone have any idea if it can be setup to show injector duty again with the high imp injectors or is that info sent from the ECU which I also changed Have searched for this for quiet awhile with no luck so either no one has worried about it or I'm shit house at searching for stuff

Insight Motorsport is at Arndell Park and he is a ID rep, I got my ID1300s from him when they where first released The ID1300s are made by Bosch under licence to ID so I would be interested to see if you could buy them through Bosch or any of their dealers that aren't dealers of IDs

The law requires the bonnet have a two stage locking mechanism so while you can use bonnet pins they can not be your only method of securing the bonnet down The ones Longs has are the flush mount ones, its the ones that has the pin exposed you can't have I case you hit a pedestrian they won't get cut up on the pins, frankly if you hit a pedestrian the pins would be less of a concern then the near two tonne of car telling them their somewhere they shouldn't be Looks like the only way you will get that to work is reposition the latch higher Getting out to the track much ATM ?