XKLABA

My 34 pulls from about 2400rpm progressively to about 3500 where all hell brakes loose Boost is throttle dependent so if you don't touch the floor with the loud pedal it will be very drive able and the earlier it spools the less fuel it will use, would live to see back to back 2.6 v 3.2 I will add though while it is apart get a set of the Unigroup 260 x 10.8 cams fitted, or at least get the head relieved to allow bigger cams later on

Oh god give me one of them That's it out goes the shity 26 and in goes a twin charged SR20ve Pete, so the 3.2 has been decided, what else are you going to change cause that turbo on a 3.2 is going to spool off idle making it a weapon on the street, may choke it a bit up top though depending on rear housing Another thing to think about is the stock 26 head was never designed to flow 3.2ltr worth of air

This, with 4" exhaust and a loud as fark Weldon fuel pump, sounds the tits

Can you do the BC kit and Ian's to please, though I think he has his calculated already on his build thread, and the SR20 for shits and giggles

I didn't think the 26 bore had enough length for the 30 stroke which is the idea of the 20mm spacer and longer sleeves, Ian put a modified 30 crank into the 26 block with SR rods and I'm sure he did quiet a few KMs with that setup and when pulled down it showed very little wear IIRC, a loose bore will wear quicker then a short rod ratio correctly sized

And I theory this is correct, but how does it translate Into the real world where practical rules, IIRC the powertune R34 had the 2.9 and made some big power and as far as I'm aware still running, just no longer in the that R34, as well as that GTRNURs RB31.5 would have had a similar rod/stroke ratio which is essentianally the same as an SR20 and all of which make good power and times and don't wear out in a 1000km like people make out will happen with these rod/stroke ratios, in the real world the difference is just BS

That doesn't surprise me as there isnt much difference in building a 30 to a 3.2, what would be interesting to know is if he makes his own 3.2 or buys and fits the Nitto kit or some other premade kit

Imagine if you can lifting the head on your car 38mm, that is the problem with the RB30 block, the high deck setup lifts it 20mm, the BC kit leaves it where it is BC kit 2.9ltr RIPs is 3ltrs Nitto is 3.2ltrs The BC and type R poncams is the best option for what you want alround, but wait and see what Jim wants to tell you ( 3.2ltr kit as he is part owner of Nitto iirc ) and get a costing for it Then contact Power Tune and get a costing for the BC kit, by the you will have a price from Rob so you can better decide what to do

I want to do something like GTRNUR did with a high deck, still 3.0+ but without all the fitment issues Yeah goes pretty good , 10.8@132mph Pain In The Arse , no they are pretty good its the hieght of the RB30 that is the issue

This, plus its to close to the bonnet and I lowered the subframe 8mm, I have twin GT-RSs factory mount and can not put the factory strut brace on cause it hits the TT pipe, if you have a high mount 6262 you will have this issue and probably bonnet I love the torque, its the fit I'm not impressed with, top end power is 623hp/458kw at all 4 @28psi and still 3.0ltr It's an all rounder, street drag track whatever is going , mostly track though The RB30 block is a PITA and not worth the effort

BC 2.9ltr stroker and type R poncams will make a world of difference to your car ,I have fitted the RB30 block to my R34 and would never do it again or recommend anyone else to do it but the torque that comes with it is just awesome just doesn't fit how i would like it to, but I'm just fussy, the BC kit goes into your factory block so everything bolts straight in

+ 1

Any chance your going to do a before and after with your cam change ? And for something different to the usual Garret upgrades http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/111085418388?nav=SEARCH

Oil leaks, it is a mini GTR lol

If he has fitted new rings then they really should have been gapped to the bore after honing it, and those honing tools take 2/5ths of F all anyway, this is how I did my 32 last time and it has held together for a few good hard years of abuse and ran some really good numbers given its set up To give a consistent 100psi then I would say something is a miss machanically, most likely cam timing

I've got the weldon 2025 as my main and the walbro E85 as my lift, I hate the Weldon, it is the loudest farkin thing I have ever heard , the pump is rubber mounted the bracket that holds the pump is rubber mounted the plate that the bracket is mounted to is rubber mounted and there is a price of -12 Kevlar braided between the pump and surge tank, am going to custom a 10ltr with twin walbro E85 intanks, cause street car > race car

Yeah while its getting bolted together would be the best time to do it or at least get the head relieved so you can do it later, it was some thing I forgot about and am kicking myself now What cams are you looking at and what head are going to use

Yeah I will have that plug for sure, I have two full looms, one I have been cutting plugs and wiring out of it already I'll find it this arvy and PM you

Yeah mate, that I have, well the GTR one if it makes any difference, is it just the sensor you need or the plug or both

I have 9.5:1 with 28psi and the motor has been running for more then a year now and I haven't lifted a head yet, higher comp will make off boost driving a lot better though

2.6ltr is fine if you do it this way, you just have to make sure the intank pump/s out flow the main pumps That's the same sort of useage I'm doing, so no 2.6 will heat soak quiet quickly and you be pumping heated fuel into the engine, 2 x 044s will turn the fuel around a lot faster from the engine then the 1 044 intank can flush the heated fuel from the surge tank

Better throw this in, I for some reason thought this was for a R34 GTR some disregard where I said about fitting it to a 34

As much as a nistune can be fitted it is a mission into a R34, their is a thread all about doing it if you search for it ( OP, not Ben I know he knows all about it ) I would use the PFC for a street GTR that doesnt want Flex Fuel any day, the only problem with the PFC is as much as most every tuner can tune them, very few know how to do it properly/fully, I have a PFC in my R32 and have done so for 7 years and it drives better then it ever did with a stock computer, though it didn't when it was first fitted and tuned but then I found Scott and it has been brilliant ever since and given how fast my 32 is given its power output proves it My 34 had a PFC in it when I bought it and it drove quiet well then I let Scott at it and again became perfect to drive and if it supported Flex Fuel it would most likely still be in there This is my opinion, blast me all you like for it it won't change what I have seen for my self and how I feel about it, I like the PFCs and when tuned properly do exactly as they are asked with no fuss

Problem with small capacity surge tanks is they heat soak quickly, my custom one is 8.5ltr and I am looking into a new bigger one as it starts to heat soak fairly quick If not track car twin intank it with either 044s or Walbro E85 pumps and carry 1/2 tank min for track use and you won't have an issue Breathing from the sump is ok for a street car but if you do it for a track car the catch can will quiet quickly over fill and make a mess of your engine bay, especially if you have breathers in the can it self, run a line from the bottom of the catch can to sump by all means but put a one way valve in it to allow oil in to sump but not vise versa

Yeah they made the non vspec right through, in Oct 2000 the front indercator lenses where replaced with clear items, so yes quiet possible to be a 2001 non vspec, rare model At the same time the VSpec I was replaced with the VSpec II