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XKLABA

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Everything posted by XKLABA

  1. XKLABA
    First time out with this setup, new shocks new brakes (well new to me anyway lol ) so time will see, as long as we give to the RWD guys ill be happy
  2. XKLABA
    I'm going to be on 18psi=350kw with new semis so hoping for a good 1.02 so I think I'll just try and stay behind you a steal your lines
  3. XKLABA
    1.02, I'm just gonna sit behind you then cause that's about what I'm after lol
  4. XKLABA
    So what was the dia of the duals ? Can not beat a good free flowing exhaust
  5. XKLABA
    I've had mine disconnected since 2008 and get upto 650km from a tank If tuned right you don't "need" them
  6. XKLABA
    With low gearing and big wheels on a heavy car, 17lt per 100 isn't to bad Playing with cam timing and more time tuning will help a little as well as driving style, but it will never get the mileage of a Prius
  7. XKLABA
    The only way a fuel reg can dump fuel in manifold is through the vac/boost line, start car and pull line off and look, for enough fuel to cause these problems it will flow out at you I have personally never seen a factory fuel reg go like that
  8. XKLABA
    A dual stage BOV would be better, stage one plumb back stage two atmo, that way there is some air going back to AFM and some well not, the trick is tuning it to get the right amount
  9. XKLABA
    Which is true but he is arguing a point he doesn't know 100%, now the OP has gone to his local governing body and asked the question to someone that works there and got his response and for all GTSboy knows the guy that works they know his job and gave the correct answer, so who does OP believe, the person that works at Vic Roads and someone on a forum from a different state As for his argument its a different chassis, its concidered an R chassis, and to the best of my knowledge there isn't an R chassis 1, an R chassis 2 or an R chassis 3, they are all considered an R chassis and the differences in the build codes are to dictate what that R chassis got like a 2.5 or 2.6, 2WD or 4WD etc, but still all the same chassis code no matter what little differences there actually are
  10. XKLABA
    I fairly sure all the " authorities " would have is Nissan as the make, R34 Skyline as the model and GT/GT-t/GTR as the variants, they most certainly wouldn't have all the chassis differences listed nor care about them, as far as they are concerned they are the same chassis and that is what matters, its not about cheating them and not some big conspiracy IIRC in NSW you are allowed to go either 15 or 20% bigger in capacity providing the engine is from the same family, ie RB for RB and SR for SR etc
  11. XKLABA
    Location will help you
  12. XKLABA
    Reversion will also cause high fuel consumption
  13. XKLABA
    Cheers, will have to get on the straight away so I can have then for the SAU NSW trackday
  14. XKLABA
    Sweet, will have to look into that, you don't happen to have a number of him by chance
  15. XKLABA
    I used 20mm Bolton spacers and managed to get my stock R32 GTR 16" wheels with Toyo TQs all round, the front I had to grind the ridge off the caliper as it just touched in a few spots The backs on mine are the 322mm and they went on with no issues with the 20mm spacers
  16. XKLABA
    I know with the GTRs when you change from rubber intake to alloy ones with AFMs still in play they tend to get reversion even if they are exactly as per factory, something to do with the ribs in the rubber pipes regulating the air speeds AFMs are very sensitive to even very small changes and as Ben said the return should be pointed at the compressor wheel, it helps the air circulate through the turbo to the BOV and around again instead of backing up though the AFM A blocked BOV will give the same result as a open atom BOV as the already metered air passes back through it telling the ECU it has air going into the motor as AFMs don't know which way air is flowing only how much is passing through it You need to get someone to watch the AFM map trace as you drive and see what it does
  17. XKLABA
    Off the shelf blue and white
  18. XKLABA
    Thanks for nice comment, I'm pretty proud of how its turned out so far yeah I know but I can't for the life of me bring myself to fork out the coin for my custom XKLABA plates
  19. XKLABA
    It can still get reversion with the BOV blocked, when you shut the throttle the air built up by the turbo has to go somewhere and with no where else to go it goes backwards through the turbo to the AFM That could also be causing and increasing the hesitation between gears
  20. XKLABA
    http://www.slampoketuckdope.com/featuredcars/micks-r34-gt-r-vspec-ii/ To many good pics to transfer them across, just easier to post the link Big thank you to JoelyMoley for the awesome pics
  21. XKLABA
    Is always better to run as much oil as you can, the dip stick measures oil down from the crank, I have a performance metal craft 9.5 litre sump and with the 1/2" adaptor plate for the RB30 I get near 10.5ltrs + 1ltr over fill to get it to the bump
  22. XKLABA
    So the boost line on the dyno graph spikes 2 psi then sits flat yeah ? I'd go with the valve float theory for your wavey power graph What plug gap are you running, 0.7mm ?
  23. XKLABA
    Every one has a different idea on what's "safe" I personally would not use a 88mm bore in anything other then an N1 or RRR block Given you can get a whole running original bore RB30 for between $0-500 I personally wouldn't risk it, but that's just me
  24. XKLABA
    Yeah that was the idea I've had a long day and not used to doing them so a little slower then normal on details tonight The idea of the lower temp thermostat was to keep head temps down to try and reduce hot spots, I also found places where air could get trapped in the head water pocket and modified it to let it out
  25. XKLABA
    I figurd the engine would run cooler, I also used a lower temp thermostat to keep temps down Its just what I figured and worked to for my build, right or wrong who knows, but it seems to be working ok for me
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