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Fark at that price I'd have a couple spares, you know just case an what not

Oh you have faith on how strong the RB25 is lol

At what point do you start to look at the tune, when you run it where you think the Cas was does it have the hesitation between gears ? Is it possible that you have moved the Cas at some point and not returned it to its correct spot ? If so then it will need to be retuned Having the BOV connected in away it causes reversion will cause more of a problem then having it vent atmo and this should show up on the hand controller AFM tracer, did you get someone to watch it will you made it do it which will require this been done with both setups, either is going to give you an unhappy spot in the tune but both will give different result in tracer While the wideband will tell you some of what's going on so will a dyno run up, just it can be done safer on a dyno

Hey Pete, They look pretty easy to drive, I have driven an Albins 5 speed and that would be ok as a daily if you can handle the whine of the straight cut gears, just gotta remember to get into first before you completely stop The OS88 is helical cut so no whine The quaife is a good thing, I have one up front of my 34 and you don't know its there till you get up it then it flawlessly in-gauges and pulls you away There is a dozen RB30s on eBay at any given time and some even come wrapped in a car Taking long enough, this should have been well under way by now Good to see this is still going ahead

Fek, I knew I forgot something

I just got one better, I just happened ran into this beauty at MSCN and got hear it in person Has a Very nice note to it and a pleasure meeting you

FYP What exhaust have you got in this thing ? Actually what are your supporting mods ? Turbos need to be able to breath in and out so any restriction in or out will make the turbo lazy, even more so when the turbo is to big for the engine it is put on Boost creep is when the turbo hits full boost then keeps climbing, usually cause by to small of a wastegate or incorrectly setup boost controller Wastegate creep is when the wastegate flap starts to open to early and make turbo lazy to come on boost, usually caused by to soft of a wastegate spring or incorrectly setup boost controller

Lol 9600rpm from a RB20 would have sounded tits, very F1

A taller diff ratio will help As with bump steer as mentioned what about what the camber is doing as the arse end squats, may need to look at roll center adjustments and or offset bushs and adjustable lenght arms if its gaining to much camber You can also go to soft with spring and shock rates, you don't want it squating so fast that it bounces off the bump stops, this is a problem I'm nutting out in my 34

Static comp ratio means very little in the grand scheme of things, its the dynamic that makes the difference for example My 2630 has a static comp of 9.5:1 and 250 cams given the timing of the cams iirc I have about 8.2:1 dynamic comp ratio, where Daves mate with 11.7:1 static comp with 290 cams (depending on how they are timed ) probably has around 7.8:1 purely because he has 40 crank deg per cam less stroke then I have which is why he gets away with/needs such a high static comp I believe its a balance act between the comp ratio and timing, the higher comp ratio makes the engine more efficient which not only give more power off boost but encourages the boost to come on sooner, the trick is getting the comp ratio high enough but not so high as it limits timing below its optimum point

It also depends on how Eflex is in the tank and how much E85 you put in, empty tank then fill to top will change the E% more then half tank adding 20l I don't get this, cause the only way this would be plausible is if you emptied the tank to change from one to the other, contact your tuner and ask if he has setup a flex tune

I went in there in person and turned out I knew one of them so maybe that got me a $10 discount lol I had a look inside mine with the flexi camera and it should work well PS they have a kickarse collection of 80s BMX race bikes

I got the return changed to -12 and an extra -12 up top for an extra $20, they where very happy to do what I wanted

I just bought the R33/34 one from them for near double that ( but my one has the washer bottle as part of it ) and worth it for the non hassle off designing and fabracating, they are also not just an empty can they are baffled with SS gauze to actually catch the oil vapours I have a AN-12 running from factory oil return on RB30 to the bung I between the two 26 manifolds and a AN-16 running from block to Walsh/frost plug at rest of head on hot side I have a AN-12 running from cold side of block to oil cap and one as a return from front catch can with one way valve A catch can that sits on engine attached to the two cam cover breathers which I put a baffle plate into the two AN-12 line from that to the Hi Octane catch can up front then two AN-12 lines one back to the PCV and the other to the inlet of rear turbo The block returns where drilled to 9mm and head to 10mm and the back returns die ground smooth Will know if it works on the 22nd of September

18x9.5+22 for R32 GTR and +15 for 33/34 265/35/18 is what I would be putting on them maybe 255 but nothing smaller as it will leave the lip to much exposed to the risk of kerbs or even potholes

I had same issue, new pump fresh rebuilt engine, couldnt get oil up to the filter so I closed/sealed the cam cover breathers and put compressed air down the dip stick tube and wound it till oil came out filter housing, removed compressed air reinstalled filter and wound till oil came out cams then started it

Interesting, I used an N1 pump with just a gasket and no leakage and it uses all the bolt holes

I would also want dual O2 sensors, one for each turbo outlet, if twin turbo that is Like this one http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/innovate-motorsports-lm2-with-dual-o2-sensors-3807-p-270.html

And at $1300 for the Plex its hardly good value for the money, I looked at it but my ECU can do most if not all of what the Plex can do I just have to get the touch sceen and sensors then set it up I like the progressive shift lights better as they give you warning to get ready to shift instead of seeing the light and going a few hunderd RPM past your shift point, when you have a car that will snap a speedo in a second flat its good to see it coming, lol

So if there is no thermosate it is a one way full pass setup whined it with no plugs and Cas disconnected till you see oil come out of cam cap through oil cap hole and you should be good to go I would still take it easy on the load side of things for a few good long drives just to make sure all air has got out

Disconnecting CAS disables everything, ECU doesn't know motor is turning it doesn't fire anything

There will be air in the lines and when the thermostat opens it will release it in to the engine, you do not want to be giving it some beans when this happens Though given how you have it set up I wounded what kit you have and if there is a thermostat at all

Nice, I really like the S8 in yellow Though I think there is a hint in the model code of what needs to happen Seriously though, I have always wondered what R34 N1 turbos would go like on a 13B Subscribed

Ok so I have 9.53:1 static comp in my 2630 and pumped 28psi in to it so far, would I get any benifit from it

Using the marking on the crank belt gear against the oil pump and cam gears agaisnt maykings on cam backing plate is the best way, then turn by hand a few times ( as michael said ) then recheck they are lined up Then while still set at TDC install crank gear cover and balancer and check theose markings line up for later when setting ignition timing with timing light