XKLABA

Yes, in theory you are correct, this would be the better way to do it when everything is working as it should and what will happen there if a pump fails is it will shut of the fuel to one rail and effectively shut off one bank, in my experience a motor will last longer with no fuel then some fuel The problem is this is a practical world and in practise you have a restriction between the rail and the pressure control valve which can create different fuel pressures in the two rails which would mean you should tune the two banks separately which is near impossible with a single turbo Though given he has had it running like this ( if this is how his is set up ) for 5 years would suggest this isn't an issue for him now, I would still pull the plugs regularly just in case on pump starts dieing and reduces flow to one bank to make sure one side isn't leaning out

Perfect!!!, I fail to see how but I also don't know what your full setup is I am curious what your failsafe is and how it works and with a single reg how exactly you expect one bank to shut off if a pump fails ? As far as I can see from what I've read from your posts the reason you haven't lost an engine is you havent had a pump fail My weldon might be noisy but I'd hardly call it crap, it does exactly what it is meant to and litres per amp drawn @ given psi is smacks all the walbro pumps The "Personally I run twin 255's for that very reason, more flow for less current" statement is misleading and gives the impression its the way to go without list what else is to be done to make it work properly or what could go wrong with this setup unless they ask you for it and given the pumps available today you will still do it that way, really? Agreed, you make the kind of power you are from a stock engine you have to expect it pops at some point and just hope it never does, but to have it pop unnecessarily because you built your fuel system wrong is a different story

Don't flatter your self about the non return valve idea, we have been using them for more then 20years in the race cars My brothers car, I don't have a pic of mine in my phone It runs a VQ35HR with an Albins 5 speed sequential It has twin pumps but unlike yours each pump is enough to supply the motor and we only run one at a time, we do so incase one fails the car will shut off then we flick two switches, one to turn off failed pump and one to turn on second pump, restart car and continue racing

So you do run twin regs aswell so one bank dies incase of pump failure, how did you get it so both rails run exactly the same pressure or did you tune then injectors to compensate for the difference, or are your check valves after the rails before the lines join Smarter depends on how you are looking at it, and get off my high horse really, I'm glad you are setup like you are and blowing a motor isn't an issue for you but what about the people reading your posts about this topic that aren't able to just throw a motor at it if theirs pops copying your setup which you have made sound so perfect I have never pushed anyone into anything, I state what I have done and what ever down falls there are to it and not once have I said my Weldon is not unbearably loud but fark if you want massive flow for the current it draws then check out the Weldon 2025a, but not for a daily, it will send you crazy Nice lid setup, very tidy, luck for me I only use one E85 pump and only as a lift pump so it doesn't draw a lot of current, I just added a -6 and -8 fitting to the factory lid for a to and from line for the surge tank I have only been looking into fuel setups in the last 1 1/2 - 2 years and I didn't use any advise off the forum for my setup so I don know who " you guys " you are referring to as for taking your advise You mentioned you could clearly hear or your 255s are not silent, next time you have them out for what ever reason look at getting some intank fuel hose and slip it over the bolts and around the pump under the hose clamp, it should quieten them down some what, just a suggestion and something for you to think about

I figured that you used twin 255s for that reason, its just you said the very reason you used them was more flow for less current and that statement is less the correct As for no downsides at all, are you serious, there are a heap of downsides to twin pumps v single how about you have to buy two pumps instead of one ( I'm not sure what 255s are worth now days but the one in my 32 was $220 6 or 7 years ago where the 460 E85 in my 34 was $180 1 year ago ) then you have to mount two pump intank Instead of one wire two pump hose two pumps ( which isn't hard but still harder then just one, which wouldn't mean anything for you now as yours is already done ) Then unless you run separate lines rails and regs you have to run two one way check valves or run the risk of one pump over powering the other, which reduces the overall flow of both pumps Aswell if you need two pumps to supply enough fual and you have one pump fail while under power still having one pump running will mean the motor will still run but with out enough fuel to keep fuel pressure up creating a lean situation and possibly blow an engine, at least with a single pump if it fails the motor will just stop

The fine side of the sharpening stone will do, just make sure you do it square taking an even amount off all round, to much one side or the other or it will leak You are doing it up tight enough yeah ? I'm with Callan on this one, its worth it to get a new one for piece of mind

I did look at the non high pressure Walbro and they still don't combine to use less current then gas 400 walbro And given the difference in flow from two 225s (209 ltr P/H @70psi each ) and the 416 ( 355 ltr P/H @70psi ) they wouldn't be worth the downsides of using twin intake pumps that need it combine to flow enough fuel over an appropriate sized single that will fuel the required amount

As above, make sure both surfaces are clean and undamaged

Just chatting with Paulie and he has suggested a GTX2867 with the 55mm ex wheel you have mentioned as a twin setup for my car Is that a possibility or what are your thoughts on that ?

More flow yes, but not for less current in the 45-70psi working range ( base plus boost ) or in my case 48-80psi

More flow for less current, really, compared to what ?

Ryco is a good brand I use the drift filter, because they have a magnet built into them which I cut open and check every service even though I know the bearing are not metal lol Diesel oil can be used in petrol motors but not a good idea for petrol oil in diesel motors and not a bad idea for performance motors, I used Castrol magnetic diesel oil for the run in on my RB2630 then switched to Brad Penn 10w40

Haha oops, for some reason I thought they where 11 blade, was thinking of something else How long till you start doing these and what would be a guesstimate of cost to rebuild two turbos with these wheels ?

That sounds interesting, would be good to see some results of back to back against the GTRSs Is there any merit in the 9 blade ex wheels ?

True all O2 sensors should be tested and calibrated accordingly against a known working one or two, but do you think people are buying these O2 kits and then running them up on a dyno to at least check how accurate they are like they really should before they start tuning off them Using elcheapo O2 sensors on a dyno as a sniffer is bad form on the tuners part and just to save a few dollars, a trade is only as good as his tools

Agreed, and if you get something like XGTRX has posted if it can light up the shift light as a lean warning and pissible drop boost it would be a good thing

In the 7 years I have been taking my car to Scott he has never " road tuned " either of my cars and both my cars run fine sub 100kmph, the 32 has got over 600km from a tank full I would prefer using the dyno as it is a controlled environment A wide band is good to have but how accurate do you think a $300 kit is given the lab grade ones dynos use are $1000+ just for the sensor and then have the ability to tune yourself while driving

Their a different type of O2 sensor ? Do they not detect air fuel ratios and report them back to the computer ? So how is having them straight out if the turbo not better then having them half way down the exhaust, if feeding signal to ECU and not just a gauge for you to look at ? For the sack of this gauge it wouldn't matter where it was positioned, if only one sensor for a twin turbo setup then in the merge would be a good place for it, twin sensors then just before the merge, far enough up it so you don't get gases from the other turbo passing sensor For my intended use for the O2 sensors is to feed the signal back to the ECU as my ECU will compensate from the signal so the closer to the engine the better for me, I would rather pay the difference in money to have better quality sensors that will bolt in to and are happy to be in the factory location then buy cheaper sensor and have to try and mount then near the end if the front pipe

I wonder why then nissan decided to get top quality sensor and put one straight out of each turbo instead of just one infront of the cat My tuner has told me closer to the turbo the better and so has the people at Syvecs where I got the ECU from

Depends on the quality of the O2 sensor, I am looking at two HTK L2H2s to put in the factory locations ( mostly because my ECU comes calibrated for them ) Cheaper O2 sensors would shit themselves pretty quick in that location, but the closer you can get to the turbo the more accurate/responsive the O2 signal is

Again with the wide band, if tuned properly you shouldn't need one, nice to have but not needed cause really you can only do so much on the street before it should be put on a dyno and tuned properly

Doing a RB25/30 conversion for less then $3k can be done IF you can do all of the work yourself and all good and well these guys say you can cause i did it is not a fair statement, you couldn't take you car to someone ( and not a mate ) and get it done for that, no way in hell It also come to what supporting mods you do and to what level and how properly you do the conversion as we all know there are cheap way to do some stuff which isn't exactly the best way of doing it So the real question would be can Ron do it for less then $3k done and dusted ?

The rb25 PCV is attached to cam cover, does it have some sort of shielding to stop oil spraying on it ?

I think it comes down to race results, not dyno figures, and modifying a car to drive how you want it to Bring on the 22nd Um and since no one has called it yet, "shotgun"

Gareth, you have put 300k KMs on your 25, what are you doing laps of Australia or do you live in your car cause dam !!!!