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Try buying the bonnet new from nissan lol

They are Nismo S Tune suspension, I just removed a set from my 34 to replace with R Tunes, very nice ride on street and still good for entry level trackdays

I bought the VSII because I wanted the black interior, I didn't realise they came with the CF bonnet till I went and test drove my one If your going for 6-700whp then a rebuild is best and at which point you look and all the bolt on stuff any way, I didn't worry about the N1 block because I was always going to go the 3.0 as it will and does make that kind power more drivable then the 2.6 can

Ok sweet, I'll have a run through and see if I can see it I've been looking into tranny coolers but finding one to suit the -8 lines is proving difficult as they all seem to neck down to 3/8ths, otherwise yeah am planning on putting it at the back so it gets protected by the rear diffuser

Haha, unfortunately that didn't work for me twice now so data log check everything as I go Mat, what fuel cooler setup have you got cause I'm goons have to do one and maybe so will as he was having the same issue as me

The Accusump is a good fix but if the setup is designed right from the get go there shouldn't be anything to fix, I went through the data logging from SMSP last Monday and I have no drops of oil pressure at any point, fuel temp on the other hand got very out of control most likely the cause of it breaking down after a few laps

Depends how pedantic about it you want to get, you can sit down and work out your tolerances and intended oil viscousity and oil pump flow and pressures etc etc, then intended use for the car and then after all that just whack the 1.2mm in there lol I have a nitto pump and use 10W40 with relatively tight tolerances and have two 1mm restrictors in the RB2630 and use the car for whatever is goin on

Haha, for sure

I'm going to add to this thread and probably get flamed for this but meh fark it The engine in my 32 is a bits from two engines Engine 1 spun big end, engine 2 blown ringlands, I took the crank and main bearings out of engine two with one rod and piston with the same piston number as the spun bearing piston in engine 1, I replaced only big ends with ACLs and rings with genuine Nissan and a 1.1mm Cosworth HG I honed block with the stone type and wiped it down with wet toilet paper measured and adjusted rings, razored the block and head and reassembled That engine has been in car since 2007 making 293rwkw and has run 11.1, was only suppose to be in there till I built a proper forged motor for it then bought the 34 and has never been changed and I cain the absolute shit out of that motor and it just won't break Moral of this story I'm trying to get across is everything doesn't have to be 100000% perfect for an engine to work or last you just have to make sure you do all the bolts and nuts up properly and clean surfaces enough so they are smooth without anything left from old gaskets or seals Oh and a good tuner doesn't hurt

No I'm serious, the "guy" I recommended these settings to was Hypergear who has a stock engine with stock cams as far as I have read This why I said try these settings because I have tried and tested all different setting with stock RB26 engines and these are good for response with mid-top end on a stock production engine and this was intended as a good starting point to try I didn't recommend these to some random dude on a forum but to Hypergear and will add Blackers to this, I assumed Hypergear who build turbos for a living and does everything on a dyno and Blackers who if I'm right is affiliated with MoTec somehow would automaticly understand that these need to be set from a corrected 0deg and should be done then tested on a dyno, are you saying that was wrong on my behalf and that I should have spelled that out to them ? We probably did have this discussion but as you said it was about cam designing and not stock cams, the fact I don't remember could be a couple of reasons, 1 it was about a year ago and I have a lot going on and don't remember every conversation I have on a forum or 2, I thought about what you said and dismissed it as wrong and moved on As for these settings they where given to enhance a stock engine not a highly modified highly strung race weapon with custom cams and will work with any stock camed RB26 head regardless of the bottom end providing the base cam timing is +/- 2 deg from 0 and again I have been reminded I should bother trying to help anyone cause clearly I have no idea and the results I have gotten from my cars was just a fluke and the 32 I managed to do before ever stepping foot into SAU so I'm still not sure how that could have happened or even been possible This is the last post I will post in this thread in regards to this matter if you want to continue this take it to PM

The settings are for stock cams, 32 and 33 are same 34 is different timing, anyone into moding cars should know you always find corrected 0deg and start from there As for bottom end I fail to see how it makes a difference as every revolution is still 360 unless that changed while I wasn't looking

Lol, I had to look at that twice, I thought it was on some sort of platform first then realised it is the front diffuser haha

This man he knows My 32 is set purely for response and my exhaust cam is a fair bit more then that, that setting is what I would consider a good allround setting for response and top end without the over the top anger my 32 has

Thank you that that is very interesting, I am pulling motor out over Christmas and amongst other things want to upgrade turbos so I will have figure out extacly what I'm going to do, I also want to go a bit smaller with comp wheel in Billet, 67-68mm I think should give same flow but better response Your GTR, have you played with cam timing yet ? if not try 6deg adv on intake and 9deg ret on exhaust

Thanks for the ride The oil leak isn't power steering by chance ?

I don't think so, my 32 is a good example, nothing heavily modified about it, just simple boltons I don't do anything more for the 34 then the 32, except the bigger sump takes more oil, it really comes down to how you use the car

Just have rear diffuser to fit left and wash car, maybe, and find liecense One more sleep, hurry up tomorrow

Throw 1ltr of E85 @ $1.24 at it and see what result you get As stated already, on a stock car the only way it could make it make more power is to lean it out

Sorry if that came out wrong, I'm not arguing this one and disagreeing with what has been said, I really just what to see the math on this and see how its worked out

Another good idea is bleed all your brakes and clutch to get fresh fluid in to the calipers and clutch slave and enough fluid in the master cylinders Check how much pad you have left New filters, particularly the fuel filter Makes sure wheel nuts are tight and tyres pressures

I have a 10ltr sump and still fill to the bump in the stick and that is how it stays, my 32 has a stock sump and same, fill it to middle of bump and that is how it always is The dip stick measures down from crank more then up from bottom, there is no way it will effect oil pressure at the level We are a pretty good bunch of people and usually just put everything in a pile next to where you park your car and leave it there

Proper argument, proper argument !!!!! I would be interested to see the math on this, and there is extra %s for showing the workings

If you moved the timing from where it was with stock ECU then when you put the stock ECU back in it needs to be put back to where it was

Yeah you can unplug them next to the inlet of the rear turbo is two plugs, it will just make car run rich which is not to bad for engine