XKLABA

I had a similar issue last week, was watching the voltage on the MFD, turned out the belt wasn't tight enough

All things been equal I believe so but there are to many variables like engine efficiency etc The 3 would also be doing it at different RPMs as they flow different amounts at the same RPM which was my point, a 3.0 at 8000rpm flow a fair bit more then a 2.6 at the same rpm and even more when you start puming 28psi of boost pressure into it

I think the HTA2865 would be good on a 2.8, but a touch big for a 2.6 and the turbine a touch small for a 3.0, I would like to see a HTA3068 as a bolton for those of us with 3.0 cause IMO the 28 turbine becomes a restriction when you get into the mid-high 20 psi range

Nice, got any more pics of that setup ?

The one I have is for a R32 GTS-t I believe

You would be surprised, motorbike coils are that dear, though I still can't find where it says these are motor bike coils, they look like Honda replacement coils, does anyone have a link to where we could that upgrade from Scott at insight and I have discussed a coil upgrade for my 34 some time ago and he suggested Honda coils would be a good upgrade and would mean I wouldn't have to remote mount them or have to run leads

I did a 1.43.8 last year in my 32, so I think you should quite easy shit in sub 1.40s

Oh ok, I thought from Scott's post you might have the Haltech

Does the Haltech not have a PWM output to control the pump speed, I have Syvecs S8 with PWM running to a 40 amp H-bridge to slow down the Weldon and am now changing that set up to a Fuelab Prodigy and feeding the PWM directly to it Nick; I have a Speedflow 10micro SS mesh filter, I will be cleaning it every 5k, still waiting for first 5k mark

I have one, it's about 80-85mm ID with a three bolt flange and in reasonable condition, only issues is in near Penrith NSW

New alternator before or after problem started ?

Is that 2WD or 4WD, chassis dyno or hub dyno ?

I think that is poor form, they can quite easily build the bottom end ready for you to bring car in, transfer oil pump water pump, fit 4WD adaptor and sump and head then put back in car It's why I don't pay in full before car is done, half yeah sure but never full cause what incentive have they got to finish it if they have been fully paid already

Yeah, just let CRD worry about it, they have done it many times before and will do it many times again To actually fit the Nitto 3.2 to a RB30 block is a bore and hone and a line bore for the crank and assemble, many inlarge the head bolt holes to 12mm, i didn't do that as not 100% neccasary, what takes time is as Duncan said getting it to suit the 4WD application

Fark, I forgot about the steel pipe as well, it was that long ago I did it, and looking at those pics reminded me I told myself if I had to do it again it would be easier to take the engine out and do it on the stand

And if someone put the timing belt on in the wrong position then turned the crank around or it skipped a few teeth while running ?

I have and yeah massive pita, 3 long main bolt from underneath and 1 single short bolt on the front side to a bracket for something else It can be done it just requires patients, I was lucky and had a complete intake on the shelf to look at to see what was needed to get it off

For drags a one way is fine, just make sure it is a proper machanical LSD Without trying to start a GTR v GTS-t debate, they are two very different cars and what you learn about a GTS-t won't necessarily apply to a GTR and vise versa This really comes down to how far you want to go into drag racing cause anything upto an auto GTS-t on slicks the GTR is winning I've seen people spend more money and have more issues buying and building a GTS-t to run the same times a stock GTR with simple boltons will run Have a look in the Motorsport build section for 2RISMOs build, that will give you some good info

Where are you getting them from Pete ?

I have 265/35/18 ADs on the 32, very little road noise, can hardly hear any at all I have 275/35/19 RS-3s on the 34, don't no about road noise cause Weldon fuel pump lol

I have the AD08s on my 32 and haven't had them aquaplane yet, they do offer much more wet grip then the RE001s I replaced with the AD08s and dry grip difference between them is ridiculous I have the Hankook RS-3s on my 34 in a bigger tyre and reckon the ADs are a alround better tyre

I don't think my 34 sounds like shit , but then I can't hear the exhaust at full boost any way so makes no difference to me"Needed" is a subjective word, do you "need" 300-400kw or "need" to modify a GTR at all for that matter, it's all 100% about want What's funny is if you and I where pulled over together and they opened both our bonnets I'm getting let go first cause my 450+kw 3.0 "looks" less modified

You did look good on the live stream hanging the arse out was good to watch and on live stream I got to see heaps of the action I'm hoping to have the 34 at a point I can enter it next year in clubsprint

93 octane ?, are you in the states ? If so do the conversion, IIRC your 93 is our 98 In which case I'd say 9:1 with a stock head and the right turbo will easy see 500hp

For what a new one is worth it's not worth rebuilding them I retro fitted a 180amp meant for a 300zx into my 34, little bit of work but not that hard