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I made 313rwkw @ 19psi on my -7s, personally I would look at the TD05-16g 3.5" exhaust aswell If the motor has a pull clutch then chances are it also has the wider oil drive so no need for the Nitto one, but check it while it's apart The RB26 only has one oil feed for the head, the rear one is blocked usually, again you won't know for sure till head is off, either way fit the 2 x 1mm restrictors even if it means removing the bung from the back one An RB30 sump will bolt up to the RB26 block If you don't plan on running more then 15psi and aren't planning on covering the car in tyre smoke the stock turbos will last a while

Make sure the thread doesn't bottom out, this happened to mine and I had to run two washers, the stock 26 ones with the ARP ones on top, I know that's dodgy as fark but the 26 washer has a bigger footprint and I couldnt be arsed getting custom washers to suit

Is there oil in the sump, yes ?, play on No oil in the catch can is what most people want to achieve

I'm going to use the matching Fuelab electric reg, even if I didnt why would someone use a PWM controller to run a pump that has one built in I'd be worried if I couldn't run a pump at full noise for more then 10mins Even my Weldon went for 1 1/2 hours at full noise on the dyno with out an issue, I realy like the Weldon just can not take the noise which is louder in the car then outside On paper the Fuelab pump and reg looks the tits, I hope that will transfer into real life

Nice, would look tough as nails but not so sure how responsive it would be In twin form

Now that ford and Holden have farked off they might reduce the " can't compete tax " and give me that us at a more realistic price, closer to the yanksBut I wouldn't hold me breath, money hungry politicians

Oh, in that case it's a 6 month of 01 GTT-t with custom body kit and a fancy twin turbo setup

You would be suprised, it's not as easy as just keep whinding boost into it, I am currently stopped at 28psi cause at 30psi and the spark blows out due to backpressure from the turbine being to small

The pressure on the valves is both sides, in and out, the exhaust manifold usually has more pressure then the inlet Then that also has to do with how old and tired the springs are and what there seat pressure is Who ever said there was no such thing as a dumb question is a dumbarse

Have you got the rego plate number, get the NSW rego app and put it in that and that will tell you, cause seriously how the fark are we suppose to know that with what you have given us

I think that is the same thing, just one is constant 0-5v while the other is a pulse 0-5v, I currently have a PWM controller controlling the Weldon from a PWM output from ECU, the next one will be the Fuelab electric FPR controlling the pump I'm not sure on what input the pump takes though, weather it has to be constant 0-5v or if it can take a PWM signal It was the pump itself I wanted to know about inparticularly the noise of it and how reliable it has been

I have all but finished designing a 10ltr surge tank to go under the back of a R34 GTR using twin walbro intank, but I'm not a fan of using twin pumps so have shelved the idea infavour of the Fuelab setup The main issue I had was a sealable access lid to get to the walbro, that might be different for me then you cause my design meant the surge tank will under pressure being under the car and having the return line going back up to the top of the main tank To hold the walbros I was simply looking at CNC fuel pump bracket welded inside the surge tank and then having Speedflow fitting running through the CNC lid Something simple for you if you plan on putting it in the boot would be the Alpha Omaga Walbro surge tank that can hold upto 4 Walbro E85 pumps

There is a few thing you need to work out first like what RPMs you plan on running too, what gear set you will have in the box, what kind of box you will use, what size tyres you want to race on, These will all need to be accounted for when choosing a final drive, my 32 has trapped at 125mph which is near enough top of 4th, 7000+rpm While your in gear acceleration will be faster with the 4.3s you have to be able to put it on the ground and these will make that harder especially with 6-800hp so while they might get you a higher mph they will do so at the cost of ET with a H pattern box while I was working with the BSM GTR team we had this discussion when they wanted to go to 4.3s from 4.11s and after a lot of debating from me the decision was made to go a custom set of 3.9s which netted a consistent 2 seconds around EC and 8kmph faster down the main straight becuase Dave could put the power down sooner, hold gears longer and actually make use of the extra torque the worked motor was making, while I know this is a circiut car what is circiut racing but a series of drag races broken up with corners The strength difference between 4.11s and 4.3s crown and pinion gears is neither here nor there, the difference in diff strength between the GTS-4 and the early 32 and the late 32 on the other hand is substantial, but mostly to do with output shafts, late 32 diffs have 31spline output shafts, the 31 spline is the one you want, if yours is a 92 model then 31 spline is what you should have Personally I would drop you motor and box in and use the stock diff gears and take it from there

Ok cheers for that I am 99% certain I will be getting the 42401 with the Fuelab 52902 electric FPR which directly controls the pump

I have 400hp at the wheels in my 32 and with 4.11 I have to be careful how I launch it cause it will want to turn around on me, I nearly ran over the Christmas tree once cause of it, 4.3s would only make that worse, also I'm near the top of 4th now so 4.3s would mean using 5th which is ok in a sequential but not ideal in a H pattern

Hi all, as title says I have a pair -7s for sale off my R34 GTR, they are no longer needed as I went a 3.0 with HKS GT-RSs These have less then 10k kms on them and were never boosted past 19-20psi, so they are in relatively good condition I would prefer pickup from western Sydney but am willing to post at buyers expense $1350

As Ben said it is a oil drain to lube the oil pump where it meets the crank

I have just been having a look through the Fuelab website and they now have a FPR that has an electric flow meter built in that directly controls their Prodigy pumps, this appears to be a plug and play setup requiring no input from a ECU As to be expected this setup isn't cheap but is still a lot cheaper then an ECU upgrade and a lot simpler with no calibration required just plug it up and set your base fuel pressure and off you go http://fuelab.com/products/performance/fuel-pressure-regulators/529-series-electronic-fuel-pressure-regulators/item/52902_electronic_fuel_pressure_regulator/ http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dP6Pogm6Ts0

I nearly got one of these but they weren't quite ready when I needed an ecu so I ended up with a Syvecs S8 From what I've heard from scott about these they are an awsome piece of gear and I believe they slot in between the M*00 series Motecs and the new M1* series which is about the same level as my S8 ( the backbone of the Alpha R35 kits ) They have patch looms for a few cars already and I believe they have one for R32-34 GTRs, and can pretty quickly make one for any Nissan And for the price I was quoted for supply fit and tune ( not full retail so I wont say what that was, but that was still less then the S8 ecu alone ) you would want to be fairly serious about the engine management and be looking at a Motorsport/track use

Was just talking to Paul about this, WTF how many have you had die and why ?

Good luck !!!, I've tried many many Many times lol

Only on the race track And joining the M4-M5-M7-M1, great western highway And every time I leave my drive way Boost + 3.0ltr = addiction

If you make peak power at 4000rpm then that is where you drive it, my car make peak power around 7k so I don't rev it past 7500rpm cause there is no point There is 600hp and then there is 600HP lol

All being equal ( cams comp ratio etc etc ) a 2.6 will consume less air then a 3.0 which means the same turbo would have to spin faster to hold the same boost level on a 3.0, so while a comp wheel can only flow so much air the different size engine will pass more air Which is the issue I'm having, 28psi through a 3.0 is to much air flow for the GT28 turbine side to pass creating to much backpressure

I have the A1RMs alround on my 34 and did 8 laps of EC South before the fuel got hot and had to come off, but brakes where still going fine, but that's with 6 piston APs on a 355mm disc up front and 4 piston APs on a 343mm disc out back