XKLABA

What cams, I couldn't get it to go 30psi, 28 was the limit before spark blow out I was tuned on E75

With the 10cm rears, pretty good, better then -10s

Fark, that's worse then mine ( 170km from 42-45ltrs @+/-$1.24p/l ), and I'm on E85 pumping 22psi

Clean up in Isle FP

Arh no, the halfway meet up would be the old halfway house on putty rd Which mean we leave there and head into 16km of the some of best road NSW has to offer

Oh bugger, may need another Jerry Or turn the boost down Lol as if

Is it 177km there and back or each way, cause each way means I'm out, I can't carry that much fuel lol 170km per tank is about the best I have done, cause I love boost

Very nice, that wing is massive, what is it and where did you get it if you don't mind me asking

I asked that question and was quite rudely told to try google To save the hassle for anyone else, no there is no E85 at singleton, it is BYO I am taking 3 x 20l and a 10l Jerrys with me just in case as are a few others

Fatz, put a straight edge on the block and measure down to the full mark on the dip stick then transfer the measurement Dom from the top of the sump

I don't have any pics but engine will be coming out when the new box gets here, could grab pics then Years of experience farkin shit up lol

I drilled and tapped 3 holes in the block ( 2 x -12 and 1x -16 ), placement of these holes is very important for block strength, get it wrong and shit can turn bad pretty quick I also have the water jackets half full of grout and a platinum racing adaptor plate which ties the girdle and block together The Accusump is a really really good band aid, but and ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, set your oiling system up right from the get go and it shouldn't be necessary

Front diff can deff be done in car and is well worth it

Your the dude that runs this shop, put a double "like" button in there

If you do the transfer mod your going need a lot more powahs or massively dodgy tyres cause handbrake turns aren't going to be as much fun, 4WD doies on the other hand, like you have never experinced

Yeah, -12 line from bottom back of front catch can to fitting in block next to starter motor with a one way valve on it It can't until engine is off as the vacuum is running through the catch cans

Forward grip does help Some times

In theory that's sounds good but what it does is increase air velocity up the oil returns/catch can lines increasing the amount of oil leaving the engine, and is how my setup is currently done for legal reasons and why so much thought had to go into it and it's proven to work with 22psi boost and 400kws at all 4 on SMSP-s which is a tight twisty track that does a good job of showing a setups short comings

The goal is the reduce the air flow/speed up the oil returns through the block and head, this can be done several ways

I'm trying to upload a pic of my bay but it won't let me Menthol, It's not that it will push oil down but reduces how much air is flowing up the returns trapping the oil in the head, people under estimate how much blowby come out of these things under high boost applications,ie 20psi+, next time your car is on the dyno see if you can watch the breather outlet, it will shock you Simon, While it will greatly reduce the amount of air pressure is the crankcase, air will flow the path of least resistance and if that is via the two lines running to the catch can then that is where the air will flow and it will take the oil with it, if the catch creates a restriction then it will leave via the oil returns again trapped the oil in the head I have seen too many times setups running from to low in the crank case ( mine included which come from the block ) where the lines leave without passing through the cam covers and they end up filling up the catch can leaving the sump with out enough oil If the pickup is to low then around a high speed high power corner the oil will cover the pickup and the blowby will pump the oil up the line to the catch can, but if you are not having issues with yours then you obviously have it sorted , if it aren't broke don't fix it

I had to move the splash gaurds from the cams to under the inlets of the breathers so the spray from the cams isn't getting pumped into the breather in let, I also moulded the factory wire things into the inlet tract Once the foam is oil logged then they aren't doing a great lot but still turning it from a mist to bigger heavier droplets and if you don't have the catch can on top of the motor they won't do much to help the problem For track use I don't like the idea of running open lines from the sump to an external catch can, half the problem with RBs is getting the oil out of the head which is trapped there by the blowby venting through the oil returns so by running lines from the sump to the head you are creating alternative routes for the blowby to travel slowing down the air flow up the oil returns, by running them external you are reducing how much they can balance the air pressure difference between head a crank case and aswell giving an alternative path for the oil to leave your engine

Also the transfer case mod will give massive gains in forward grip

Blow by is what gets past the Pistons, I have the Hi Octane version of the mines cam baffles and same they don't stop the oil leaving the cam covers but what they do do is turn it from a fine mist to spray making the oil droplets heavier reducing the amount that can escape, this is why you should use one of those catch cans the sit on top of the engine in conjunction with the cam baffles I have one of these which I put a baffle plate in them run two -12s hoses down to a Hi Octane catch can/washer bottle setup up front and after a day at SMSP-S I had very little oil in the lines as they get to the front catch and 0 oil in the lines from the front can going back to the PVC and rear turbo

Anton ( js23nob ) is going to try and come also, shaping up to be a big group

It could be as simple as doing laps with too low air pressure, my old RE55s where run to low and it farked em pretty quickly