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XKLABA

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Everything posted by XKLABA

  1. Dollar for dollar the RB30 is cheaper, mine as example RB30 complete motor $150 Prep crank with collar $500 Adaptor plate, platinum race( the dear one ) $1250, can be done for $500 Machining for adaptor plate ( included close girdle and line bore ) $1700, not needed for other adaptor plates Forged Pistons and rods delivered from states $1500 ACL race bearings ( mains and big end ) $250 That brings you to the start point of a stroker so the rest would be the same $150 $500 $1250 $1700 $1500 $250 =$5350 And the extra drive you get from the 30 crank is soooo much better I used R32 GTR twin turbo and plenum hoses which fit perfect and look stock as
  2. Yeah, can see you in the engine bay shot You can get spray on tint for indicators and tail lights, not really legal but would make the side indicator stand out less
  3. I remember seeing the video of this, bought a tear to my eye watching it Reading this it reads like you think the guys building did something that cause it ?
  4. Haha yeah, I'm all for having a laugh at myself but there has to be a line in the sand at what's funny or not and that crossed it I think Well he does drive two really fast cars and a silly fast bike so he might be compensating for something
  5. You don't want to work where I work, my boss is a cock, he is even making me work more then 6 hours a day at the moment and he never lets me take days off, he is constantly yelling at me and telling me off
  6. I have to disagree with that, I'm married with three Rugrats and a mortgage and currently own two GTRs and a 1000cc ninja and a few other cars
  7. Haha, just early enough to leave 34s out in the cold
  8. you have to put the HG thickness in in MM on that scale setup, so you have put in .51mm not 51thou which is closer to 1.3mmEdit, should have read the whole page before posting lol, Husqld beat me to it
  9. I use mine for what ever is going, I brought them to drive them hard and do so any chance I get So all of the above except dyno queen
  10. I haven't had a factory ECU since 2006 but iirc the cat light isn't connected to the ECU and it's the engine light flashing is an ECU fault but could be wrong The oil pressure gauge in the RB26 in R32s playing up is realitively common, especially in the earlier ones, but is something that should be takin on the side of caution and tested properly before moving on
  11. It sounds like the car has a few issues which is a given given the car is 25 years old now so it is going to be a case of one thing at a time, the cat light is there to indicate the cat is dead so change it and go from there, cat convertor a are a service item and need to be changed periodicly, even worse if it still has the compliance cat The oil pressure problem is a common one with 32s unfortunately which requires a seperate oil pressure test and then new sender unit As for battery I had an issue like this year and years ago and it turned out to be the fusible link connection at the battery had corroded, I cut it off and put an eyelet back on and no more issue
  12. Stock engine number no problems, other then the massive cost of doing it that way that is
  13. The cat light is just a sensor at the back of the cat that lights up if it gets to hot and nothing else, it's a sign the cat is dead
  14. I don't know, I still think you would have to ask an engineer and providing you still use the current pollution gear you would be ok which is another reason why a 2.9 would just be easier
  15. If 0 deck heights min HG thickness is 33thuo for clearance I think the dish is a bit big can you machine them down 40-60thuo and then deck block to match I run 14cc dome top with 0 deck hieght and 1.1mm HG with 63cc combustion chamber ( 26 head ) and have +/- 9.5:1 state CR
  16. If nitto does a 2.9, do that, otherwise BC do a 2.9 and Anthony made 800+kw from one I believe but could be wrong in NSW now you can +20% capacity providing it is from the same engine family, RB30 can now replace an RB26
  17. Unfortunately fuel used makes no difference with intercoolers, either they flow enough air or they don't, the question is where the restrictions starts for each cooler, going off Staos result the 33 starts about the 320kw mark and gets worse from there, the problem is the more you try and force air through a cooler the harder the turbo works creating more boost and more backpressure in the exhaust manifold etc to make the same boost at engine You have lost two Kandos now yeah ?, given you have lost two and others have had them running for years without issue I would say there is an oil supply or drain issue in your setup somewhere at some point and that needs to be found and rectified if you want to continue using the Kando turbos or change to one that doent mind oiling issues
  18. This, the 34 is a passion thing and the 35 is a better newer car, smart money is on the 35, as for quicker check sig and that is about to get faster soon and including buying the car I'm still under $80k $3k for a service is not much for someone that just forked out $180k for the car, it's all perspective really
  19. Is it possible that that is just where the 67mm comp wheel runs out of puff trying to feed a 2.5ltr six ? Mark, what boost controller have you got ?, can you turn the gain down a bit to smooth out that peak which should reduce how much it dips after full boost is reached
  20. I was under the impression the Kinugawa turbos are made by Kamak and these are the same just with different markings
  21. Royal purple syncro Max for box and Transmax Z for transfer 2ltrs for box and 1.8-2 ltrs for transfer case /thread
  22. Easy, build it right so there is power below 4k as well as above*Cough* 3 ltr lol
  23. I think you missed his point, that that turbo will make mass power and push high MPHs which is a true indication of power/torque to weight while ET is an indication of setup which includes tune and response
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