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Nah I didn't have to touch the stock Cas just pick up the crank signal at the ECU plug and run a new wire to the crank trigger then change the settings in the cam/phase settings to read the 6 different sized slots in the ECU, it has an event counter it phases from The new design cam wheel looks heaps better

Neo is a sales gimmick and not worth shit on a turbo, add lift to it and then maybe but I'm yet to see a neo match my 32 for power AND response on the same boost and my 32 still runs bush bearing stockers I can not post pics for some reason, will see if I can get someone to post it for me

Cams are cams and work on crank rotation angle, makes no mind what engine they are on Go the 252s The Tomei cam duration is takin from lobe contact on to lobe contact off given the correct clearences from bucket

But then they go on to say the Type Rs make better response then both, how does that work ?

I had Type Bs in my 34 when I bought it and dialed them in best I could and still wasn't happy with what they did so swapped them out for Type Rs (only cause I couldn't find stock R34 cams for sale at the time) and made same peak power, +/-2-3kws, but came on +/-800rpm sooner I know why this is but CBF writing it from my phone

The type Bs will give some extra peak power on the dyno but will do so at the cost of low end response and overall drive which is what adjusting the cam gears reduces, in a drag race two GTRs with the same simple bolt ons setup the same, one with stock cams and one with type Bs and both with their cams dialed in properly and everything being equal, the one with stock cams will win

Wow the spam is starting to come thick and fast now Maybe it's time to put a 10 post minimum before being able to start a topic

Yeah and yet still worth it for the difference they make

Ok go 2 more on intake and 5 more on exhaust as a starting point I run way more then that

What cams, if stock go 6 ad on in and 8 re on ex and report back Make sure you check and reset ignition timing

Haha, oh ok, so you have been in a car that has gone from the stock thermostat to a low temp one that was been setup and tuned properly to be able to see if there really is a difference Could be cause it is a JDM engine and to counteract the cold intake temp of the colder climate, gods knows, I know I don't care why they did it, ever wonder why Nismo still make low temp thermostats even for the current range of engines What I do know is my 32 makes 293rwkw on stock turbos and with that has run 11.36@125mph in a full weight car on 18s and at the start of this year I filled it up at shell St Clair then drove it to Orange and back and when it came off the mountain it had a little over 1/4 tank and went on to do 650km from a tankful and guess what, it has a Nismo thermostat, how's that figure into your efficiency theory I have also seen the datalogging from the dyno with different water temps so have seen first hand the difference in performce/power from it when tuned properly Now Im sure you have read it somewhere and think your right, but I have seen the practical side of it and now your wrong, there is no difference how they drive in this climate, I have also been through this shit with you before so I'm not going to bang my head against the wall debating this with closed minded one sided persons

The early HKS ( green/purple) the gear ring was made of a softer material and would wear down and skip teeth, I had this happen lucky it was only 2 teeth and it didn't do any damage, I still have them but can not upload pics Cam gears on RB26 is one of the best value upgrades you can do, IF you have them dialed in properly

Lol, take James, I'm just to lazy for that running crap

This is what I was talking about, mine on my setup didn't read correctly till we got it out to exactly 2mm, any less and it would miss teeth, @ 1.1mm it would miss upto 9 in a roll at cranking speed, my ECU has a built in oscilloscope and that is how we found this issueYou only having one finger to look for probably won't be an issue though

Will that fit under the cam gear cover, also the GT-101 sensor needs a 2mm air gap, I found this out the hard way

Just curious what machining those slots into the balancer does for the balance of it, will it need to be rebalanced, especially for someone that plans on running it past 8k

Lol, sound fair to me I just need to lose some weight, 108kgs

Lap times is what it's about, trying to get to WP next weekend to set a time there too

actually the Getrag is heavier then the 5 speeder so the advantage is on my side there by a couple of kgs I'm hoping the longer first will get me off the line better and with the shift cut setup my ET should improve but doubtful my MPH will increase much, car is just to heavy Needs more powahs

Oh shit, 1661kg plus driver + box Standing start 402.336m

Haha, I got no head job and poo cams 3.0 with 3.545s v 2.8 with 4.11s is what I think will be interesting, would be nice to know wieght difference also

Oh the lols only do the Getrag if you do the 3.545 diffs as well, 1st gear in my 34 is now and always was useless even when it was a 2.6 with -7s, so add 4.11s to that and you may as well stay with the 5 speed as you won't use first with the Getrag I can't wait to see the difference between 4.11s and 3.545s with the two identical OS88s once put side by side

What's your cam timing -7s will never match stock ceramics for response When you changed turbos did you reset the wastegate setting on the EBC You can also adjust the gain on the EVC 6 to get it to ramp up faster

Very lucky, but could only happen if the spark plug was out

Engines run better when hotter due to their tune, if your engine has been tuned to run at 85 deg with the engine temp multiplier starting at 80 deg and increasing down the colder scale then you try and run it at 70 deg then no wonder why it runs worse, set it up to run there and tune to run there and it will run there perfectly fine and further away you are from the detenation threshold, obviously you can't run an engine hard at 20deg but 70deg + would make no difference if tuned properly