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On the OS88 there is a ring under the gear knob, same as the 34, you lift up then push forward from neutral Edit, This is what you get when ya don't read the whole thread before posting

Yeah put a H pattern sticker on to confuse the shit out of anyone that might try to steal it lol

I plan on a strain gauge shift knob for shift cut

Just did a pink slip on the 34 and asked the question and was told they didn't care as long as it has no safety ramifications Blue slip may be different but they only do pink slips

Wouldn't the R35 be considered an auto with a fancy tiptronic

The factory wastegate is 10psi so unless they have been changed or the tune is so far off it should still get to 10psi

Oh wow, I love that exhaust Subscribed

I did a mod to mine with a relay and power sources directly from the alternator, then use the factory line to trigger relay with the relay feeding the positive power supply directly to coils Made a very little difference to idle and it revs a little more freely

Ok so I just got a wheel alignment as I also put in 4mm RCA adjusters which take out a touch of camber and ended up with 3.3deg camber so with out RCAs I think you would end up with 3.4-3.5 deg camber with this mod Shot me your number and I'll text the pics across

Is it better, yes Is it necessary, that is a better question Depends on setup and how much boost you plan on running

IMO, +4 in and -7 ex as a starting point, but run it up at 0 before anything then go these setting to make sure you are going in the right direction of what you want I always chase response over anything else, others like to see a peak number, dialling in cams can move the power around a fair bit depending on what you want from your setup

Hahaha, stupid iFail autofarkyouover , I spend 10mins writing a post then another 10mins fixing the auto corrects But yeah that's kinda funny I'm happy for any turbo you like, I would just like to see response v power for same boost level on 98, which is what that car uses, with a ET and MPH for proof cause I have seen doctored dyno runs before I'm sure there is better graphs from 26s, that's just mine so I don't feel bad posting as a reference so not to offend anyone by using there's and will be satisfied I'm wrong if proven

Haha, oops, yeah got that back to front, meant decreases overlap On my cars I advance intake and retard exhaust which increases overlap but gives results for the 26s That an interesting result, what are the LCAs on your cams ?

Do you know what the difference is between a flat white and a latte ? I always get a flat white, with Carmel, cause well find out the difference and you'll know why, bang for buck is why I not 100% against VCT, I just don't believe the hype people make about It with timing only cause I have been playing with it and studing it for more then a decade when we use to run 4AGE 20Vs in the 1650cc class restricted race cars and there was a deffenint advantage with them but when added to a turbo that only adjusts timing the advatage is lost due to boost, I inow there is all the theory in the world about it should work but that's just the practical out come But hey, fark it if I'm wrong prove it, show me results from the RB25 VCT where being able to change cam timing mid rev range beats static cam failed in properly and with all the BS people say about the NEO head being that much better then the 26 head it should be easy, I even gave you a bench mark of a complete stock 26 with exhaust and cam gears and the factory shity old bush bearing turbos

Yes and at the same time not just you, but deffenintly mainly you

I have no idea why, most likely the fact who ever is selling these has a great marketing team who realise the are a lot of people with more dollars then sense, it's truely beyond me cause every result I've seen on a turbo engine the power is the same till the VCT "turns on" then it screams away from the off setting so my thinking is why not just set the cam to the on setting as there is benefit to the off setting It may very well be hurting it down low in the off setting aswell, but I have not yet seen someone set it up so the cam is at the on setting from idle right through and please correct me if I'm wrong here but my understanding is the VCT can't change the cam timing until it has enough oil pressure to do so That graph was origanally posted for a post I made a few pages back about how I'm yet to see a NEO result that matchs it for response making the same power for the same boost level and that graph was when the engine was astill unopened with stock bush bearing turbos and simple bolt on upgrades I have seen results from and like I said on beats off every where so why have off setting at all I don't think there is a compromise on a turbo if the cams are selected correctly and dialed in properly, because people want peak HP and do so by putting big duration cams making the engine inefficient off boost inturn making turbos less responsive and now they try and compensate with things like VCT

Just in case you missed it, my theories at work I ran the time in the link below on the Wednesday night then that Sunday did this dyno run at a SAU dyno day

I said on a turboed engine, I can see its merit on a NA engine but you don't build a turbo and NA with the same principles My idea is build a turbo engine so the cams take care of the low rev range and the turbo take care of the higher rev range, by building it so the cam are best down low it loads the engine bringing the turbo on sooner, then when the turbo/s comes on the same timing that makes the turbo work keeps the dynamic ratio up making full use of the forced air getting pumped into the engine, then to change the cam timing later in the rev range is taking away from what makes the turbo work efficiently I will add I'm taking about performance here and not emissions, this is a misunderstanding that I have come across a bit lately

I have to disagree, with the correct cam selection and dialled in properly from the get go there should be no need for it to "adjust" timing through the rev range on a turboed engine, also it is only on the inlet cam and in my experiences the best gains are from the exhaust cam Plus you lose the ability to fine tune with VCT It also only does timing with no change in lift, the VE setup would be something worth having

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm Your welcome

That's hookd up right, it's a boost "T" which means it bleeds boost pressure out of the wastegate line via the T though an electric valve, this one does so by two different size valves depending on which one is switched on A long time ago when turbos started becoming popular a mate put a single cam CA18 turbo in a canary yellow 1200 coupe, to lift the boost level he put a T in the wastegate line then ran a meter of hose off the side of the T then cut 1 inch at a time till he got the desired boost level, this worked a treat

Price up a Walbro 255 and 600cc injectors then price up the Walbro 460 and 1000cc injectors, for whatever extra if any it would be worth it to cover any future mods Fishing meaddifore comith, my uncle once told me plenty of people catch of little fish on a big rig but very few people catch big fish on little rigs

Your in the UK yeah, have you looked at the Syvecs S6, much better ECU then the Haltech and you have the joy of having Ryan G from Syvecs and Paul Blamire of Zen performance as a local tuners who knows that ECU inside out Also ID1000s with a Walbro 460 as an intank would take care of all your feeling needs

I have a mate that races in Tag R Please kick his arse

Lol, CR500 transplant, doooooo iiiiit I got to ride the last of the CR500s, faaaarkin insane peice of gear