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A single 460 intake will supply that goal, I didn't want to go twin intank and one wasn't going to be enough for my end goal Just run with the tank above half and you will be fine

Have you thought about the ID1300s ? If the miss is following the injector when it gets moved then it is the injector, what else what cause it to do that ? What is the spray pattern of the 1400s, I looked at a lot of injectors when I bought mine ( the 1400s where not out then ) and had a few people suggest and injector with a wide spray for the standard 26 manifold, when I looked at everything realised that won't work as there is a 30-40mm long tube that is not much bigger then the injector which would mean the wide spray would simple wash the tube walls losing the mist needed for vaporising I ended up with ID1300s as they have a narrow spray pattern meaning the spray clears the tube without out hitting it Also what ECU are you using ? Just asking as I don't think that is the issues given the problem follow the injector

I just run a hose from one to the other when I remove the factory boost solenoid

There's not working and then there is tampered with to make not work A cat with no center could be argued poor maintance, a cat with a 3" pipe welded inside has been made to not work on purpose And as much as it would be a hard one for them to prove it was you that did it it's not worth the legal battle for no gain in performance over a good quality high flow SS cat Though I do think the full $10k is for a company vehicle

Haha, I just noticed he is in SA, so play on

That in NSW is an instant $10k EPA fine, cat was deliberately modded to not work And for what, there is no gain from a 3" pipe to a working 5" bodied SS cat, 100 or 200 cell makes little difference

R32 + RB26, best thing to do

It has the ATTESA pro with the faster ECU, the hydraulic pump that controls the 4WD also controls the A-LSD which is hydraulically activated, same pump different valve so realisticly it shouldn't unless the pump is unplugged which is why I thought it might be electrical, since it is reading something on the dash then the pump is plugged in, maybe the pressure sensor ? I am about to do this myself and would really like to know the outcome

What is the licence requirement for this, AASA or L2S ? If I can get my arse off the lounge and put car back together might be in for this given I'm on holidays

What Paully said, -5s minimum, 2530s would be nice as would Billet TD05H-18Gs

It's the "because I can charge that" fee

I use wisco RB25 Pistons, .5mm lower comp hieght compared to RB30, and I have no noticeable noise on start up

I have run my own business for the past 20years and understand nearly every financial avenue and will say negative gearing is a fools errand brought about by banks/financial agents greed for interest and commission and frankly I don't feel like getting into it, but anyone that tries to save tax by paying interest is nuts You have no choice here except an unsecured personal loan unless you can get a contract cover page with the vechicles details and a 17 digit chassis number

That's fine but if your borrowing capacity isn't an issue then why not equity it and pay less interest ? Either you get a personal loan and pay more interest or get an equity loan pay less interest and borrow more against your/next house

My personal opinion is you never finance toys, if you can not pay cash you can not afford it Given that, I would equity loan it and pay it off fast other wise you lose more in interest and that loan will directly effect you borrowing capacity anyway

Chris, when you get pics can you post, I too am interested in this setup

All same same I had one of my spare 32 ones modded and put on my 34

This is something I have thought about as my ECU was origanally design to run the R35 ( or at least with the R35 in mind ) and has twin 20a H bridge outputs to run twin FBW throttles, but room to fit 6 FBW TBs is near impossible, what I have thought about is twin motors linked to the stock TBs and drive them that way My reason was to utilise the down shift "blip" function for the sequential

Well not for you anyway lol

Oh ok just suggestion as I don't know what setup you have, the fact stands ARC make the best cores in the business, but you have to pay through the nose for it

If you get a ARC you will be sweet, can't get any better and they know it Like this, if it will fit a 33 http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/321621828360?nav=SEARCH

When you put the Nismo clutch hose on properly you then have to adjust the clutch pedal hieght

Yep, exactly

bottom towards passages side, that would be clockwise on your description

Have you checked you actually have spark ? Ignitor Coils Plugs All have a tendency to fail on a BNR32, especially if left standing for long periods of time