XKLABA

Why is this hard to understand ? Having an engine that runs a little bit cooler is not a bad idea, especially when that coolant is running through the head keeping the combustion chamber temps down a touch The only problem is fitting them to engines where the ECU can't be adjusted to run properly with them

The ATI on my 32 spit a Gates belt in the middle of a Texi run Don't get me wrong the stock balancer in good condition is a good thing

But not Andra or cams approved

I have the ross 32-2 teeth setup with the standard CAS for phasing There are plenty of kits floating around the world ATM, but it is always good to see someone else's approach to this issue You just use the input that would normally read the crank angle output from the factory CAS, it just has to be programable I have thrown 3 Gates belts so far the last of which lasted less then 2 hours, fitted it drove to dyno then it couldn't take the power and decided to spread it self around the engine bay, I then had to drive the bastard home with no PS on 275/35/19 front tyres Funny thing is I stopped at Autopro on my way home from work to get another belt or three but they only had there own elcheapo belt in that size and I needed to turn the car around so I grabbed it got home fitted it then went and got three Gates belts, well one full trackday and a spirited drive up putty and back plus a few thousand Ks later the elcheapo belt is still on there in perfect nick

Is there no break points between 50 and 80 deg ?

Just get a new one and put it back together, even if it is in the engine and manages to make its way to the sump the gause over the oil pick up will stop it getting into the oil pump You will most likely find it one day, I once found a 13mm ring open ended in my BOV return pipe lol

Yes R32 GTR and about to do R34 GTR fitting an R32 GTR diff into it Trolly jack is the best way, remove rear tail shaft section, then slowly does it with perseverance

Most likely a Nismo thermosate, same issue I'm having ATM, the base map on my ECU start coolant multiplier from 75deg escalating as the temp gets colder on the scale, I have to change that as my car sits right on 70deg daily driving and gets upto 76-78 on the track due to the manual clutch fan starting to kick in

Haha, no, he is saying they have done none of the mods usually done to fit the twin cam head Edit, Ben beat me to it

The trust one looks like that cause it is the longer 700mm cored cooler, great efficiency

Don't get me wrong I know all the theory behind it I have also seen first hand the practical side of going both ways for motorsport use with the BSM team and that is why I am dead set against it I was just wondering why Matt was considering it for his own particular reasons cause IIRC he has a 3.0 which means he will have more torque then one could ever need ( not to be mistaking with want ) and for anything but dyno or auto backed drags the fighting for traction and inefficient use of said torque makes it not worth IMO, which is why I asked the question

Correct, more teeth = weaker, I had this very discussion with Terry@Award when considering using the GTR drive line for offroad racing use If I'm correct you make a cubic fark load of power and torque, why the change to lower ratios ? It is something I personally am dead set against for cars making big power unless for dyno queen or auto backed drag queen

In the 26 head there is a, let's say tunnel for arguments sake, that runs from one side to the other in the middle of the head for the oil to cross to the oil returns, check in them

When you put on the mines/hi octane baffles you have to move the spray/splash guards to stop oil spraying off the cam lobe into the cam cover breather, just the spray guard not the cam cap Look on the chassis rail under the AC line, had that happen before, mass PITA

I currently have both AD08s and RS-3s and no way is the RS-3 better then the AD08, and I will be replacing the RS-3s with AD08s when the time comes, value for money is a different story

Who would you recommend, John West ?

How is this going ? The Alloy drive shaft you got, was that from the driveshaftshop.com ? Any idea what it weighs and does it have any balance issues ? I am looking at one for my 34 since I have to change it anyway

The stock cores actually cool quite well, it just isn't the best flow wise when upping the power out put due to runner size and runner entries which is something that is addressed with the more expensive coolers I personally would push the R32 one past 350rwkw, after that if the budget is tight the KLS or Autobahn88 kits are not to bad and about the level of design as stock just thicker, just don't go more then 100mm or you will start to feel the extra time it takes to pressurise the extra volume, obviously like with anything you get what you pay for Tube and fin is better then bar and plate, bar and plate generally flow more but heat soak worse, flow can be increased with size, heat soak can't, there is an interesting article on this on the ARE website, the pics on the KLS show both tube and fine and bar and plate The hypertune cooler is good value for money but is not a direct replacement so custom mounts and pipe work will likely be needed

The midoris are a good idea to, the 32 has the worst dump pipes of the three and there are big gains in both response and power from changing them, couple that with good front pipe 3.5 cat and catback and you will have more then enough exhaust flow for the GT-SSs, exhausts are one of those bigger IS better mods

Lag is also effected by supporting mods and certain mods can make lazy turbos not so lazy As for cooler, the stock 32 cooler is good upto about 350rwkw, after that the pressure drop starts to rob you of potential HP, so say you make 400rwkws (nice round number) with the stock cooler, changing it to a better cooler that reduced the pressure drop without losing heat transfer could get the same setup to say 420rwkws depending on quality of cooler and verious of supporting mods said setup already has

It really depends on supporting mods, but on a stock motor with 22psi should be anywhere from 300-350rwkw

This, I set mine to a higher setting for the drags and the 4WD locked on until I turned it off, I turned the controller down before turning it off

As far as I know they tuned up well, my tuner is an ID dealer and who i bought them from so even if there was an issue I don't know he would have told me lol, when I was looking at them he had fitted and tuned two sets on EVOs and said they where better then anything he had tuned before on EVOs and that I would be better off uping the base pressure on the 1300s then going 2000s unless I really had to My car drives perfectly, even at low RPM with less then 2% throttle there is no issues no hiccups no popping Only thing is I have no idea on duty cycle as I haven't made the MFD work with this setup yet The car is running on E80 atm and it has a Syvecs S8 ecu

Big single ?

I'm sure Scott meant 1000cc injectors, not 1000hp Look straight at a big single, ie Weldon, Fuelab etc etc... And then run whatever they recommend for that pump I have a Weldon 2025A which has a AN-12 feed to pump then AN-8 for the rest which is what is recommended I run it through a Speed Flow 10micron SS mesh filter