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Lol, personally I can't wait till they perfect the batteries and we can start playing with brushless electric motors I have a couple of RC cars, 1 is a CEN Nemisis 7.7 nitro, that's a $1200 race truggy, the other a $350 Acme Domiator brushless EBay special, guess which one spanks the other

You seem upset mate, are you ok ? Actually I think they have two clutches, just electronically controlled with a preselected gearbox, a lot like the old Merc truck where you select the next gear then it changes when you hit the clutch, except the GTR does it all for you

Sorry, I meant refitting wheels and tyres to see if the weight of spinning them up makes any difference, just for the knowledge of it really, just for interest sake

100% duty cycle on injectors is only ever going to end badly

Stao just a question, given the hub dyno is only attached to the rear wheel wouldn't that make it rwkws ?, also next time you guys run it up would it be possible to do a run then reattach the front wheel and see if having spin up the extra weight of the front wheels makes any difference ? Only if you think it can be done safely that is

Got any suggestions, needs to pay really well to match or beat what I get now Oh ok, just what I heard

Sorted, wheel bearing

Um, get it right, it was an excavator chair, and I suggested it less then 2 hours after the shit started and they had 16 hours to organise something before the baristor did something

I believe he had a pump action I also have been led to beleive it was registered in his name under his gun licence, WTF

Nah nah sorry no, they use the same wire plug to activate the pump for both ATTESA and A-LSD, but bleed nipple I two spots, one on transfer case and one on top of diff, plus one at pump for the gravity feed to the pump, it's the wire plug used for bleeding that I was talking about, check it is connected

you can not bleed the A-LSD if there isn't one, but the ATTESA has to be bled after removing the diff, the A-LSD also has it own light so the ATTESA one coming on means the issue is the ATTESA and the bleed plug for both is, oh shit you have a 33, I think it is behind the fuse box lid under the steering wheel, white plug with one wire in and one out wraped in foam tape

When they bleed the system did they reconnect the bleed plug ?

I like fast and I like stick so I have a 3.0 R34 GTR and have a OS88 sequential with shift cut on its way

It makes it so much easier when you get a good repute with your tuner, my car sat at Scotts for two weeks while I tried to diagnose a firing issue, turned out to be the hall sensor was to close to the tooth wheel

Head off, you haven't got oil in the water ? Please say no, cuase that would suck arse

Lol!!, aren't you touchy today, going through a dry spell huh? Remind me at the next meeting to remind you about the other thread, I want to see you go blue in the face

The CV is on a spline and should be able to move slightly in and out and IMO not likely your issue Although being able to "wobble the wheel slightly" if bolted on tight would concern me ever so much Also clunking/banging is usually a sign of dead shockies, is it worse when you drive over bumps ? What exactly are you doing when you hear said noises ?

Scrap the Faulkens, I have them, they are crap, the K version is suppose to be better but have heard any proof yet The Kumhos are good as an alrounder, no complaints from me about them, except the AD08s are way better and worth every cent they cost The yokie AD08s I currently have on my 32 are by far the best road tyre I have ever driven on The hankook RS-3s I currently have on my 34 are a really really good tyre, slightly better the KU36, but just not quiet as good as the AD08s I am keen as mustard to try the Achilles 123s next as I believe they are going to be a really good tyre and for the price they are impossible to beat value for money

can you put me down as a definitely possible

What he said, time spent here is time lost posting hawt redheads, K, go

That would be Scott and I with me up front leading the way

I tried to set a good pace but given I had my 6 year old in the car I didn't want to put him at risk or break the speed limit to put my licence at risk, cause public road not race track

I was getting a new exhaust anyway and it starts from the CES dump pipes Intake was taking care of with the R32 hoses going from twin turbo pipe to chassis and plenum to chassis, though if you have a 32 that won't work Oil returns was a -12 bung welded onto sump

I've been listening to this shit since 10 o'clock this mourning, suprised it took this long for someone to post up about it 1 dude, really, don't we have snippers

Yeah, Wiseco pistons Manley rods These ones but they swapped the rods for RB30 ones and the dollar was about even at the time http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/291187662894?nav=SEARCH