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XKLABA

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Everything posted by XKLABA

  1. Yeah, these are better IIRC the Z tune has the same as R35
  2. As I said above, slicks is a different ball game, I checked the data logging on my 34 after a trip to the drags with Toyo TQs and I had no oil pressure issues There is so many variables you can not really compair two different engine setups
  3. Fark lotto, anyone know where I can sell a kidney lol IIRC the Z tune has the same brakes as the R35 GTR so these are much better
  4. If ONLY drag racing with no high G corners then not worth the effort cost wieght etc Extended baffled sump will be enough Edit, your running rwd with slicks yeah, get the Accusump cuase once those front wheels get airborne all bets are off
  5. If you leave those cams in and play with retarding the exhaust cam on the dyno I would go 3.69s if you put in the 268 cams then 3.9s How much NOS are you planning on and what for, get boost or full run
  6. I think so, realy depends how much torque it makes though, have you got a dyno graph, the more torque you make the better the use you will get for longer diff gears The biggest issue your going to have with 400kw and rear wheel drive is traction, so anything you can do to add in keeping it will make car faster
  7. I have 450+awkw so far and have a OS88 option 2 on its way which I will be putting in the 34 with the stock 3.545 diff ratios, with the standard box and 275/35/19 RS-3s it has traction issues 1st-2nd and most of 3rd lol, fun times
  8. I could have told you that, oh wait I did We went 3.9s from 4.11s in the BSM car and went faster 2 seconds around EC, they then went 3.55 from a 34 after I stopped going in and that is what was in it for world time attack Personally with 350rwkws+ I would go the 3.69s, but then that depends how big your horsies are, I know 3.69s are easy to get for the R200 but finding them for the front diff is proving harder to do, I know there is a WRX that has that ratio but which exact model is what I am finding hard to nail down
  9. Though if you are going to put a hall sensor on the crank you can leave the CAS feeding the stock ECU for ABS etc and have the Motec reading the hall sensor to run engine, you will just need a phase signal from the cam
  10. That was a suggestion for Joey Personally I have no deers eyes about RB25s, I have the greddy clear cover on my 32 and know Nitto make one also for the RB26 and just thought he might look into that cause I know people have put the 26 covers on 25s but I don't know what's involved in doing so
  11. How much different is the bolt patter to the 26 one ? Could you just get one of them ?
  12. Lol a massive 12% duty cycle haha
  13. Nah mate not yet, if they sell I will post sold
  14. Also the surge shroud on these things gives off a awesome whistle sound as it comes on boost
  15. What do you call cheap Ben, I got a replacement complete new turbo from the UK for $860 delivered
  16. There always is lol, damn working on cars And least there is movement now
  17. I certainly hope so, that's how I would have done it Build the bottom end before yanking the motor from the car then transfer every thing across, upgrading as they go
  18. I have a holset HX35 7 blade on my iveco eurocargo ( factory turbo ) which runs at 30psi The only issue I've had is the rear housing vibrating loose
  19. Who else spotted the fresh built RB30 in the background ?
  20. Nice build but is sounds like it down 2 cylinders Next time you head out to SMSP try doing turn two as a double apex, clip the first apex on enter under brakes run wide turn in and hit second apex on exit under power
  21. Good to see something happening Can't wait to see the results
  22. Slipins are not ok and illegal, bolt ons are ok and fall in a grey area legal wise as they are considered adapters more then spacers I punted my R34 around Wakefield and Eastern creek a few times with 20mm Bolton spacers with no issues
  23. The fact the gauge is reading 50+ means the pump is running hard so something is making it run Do not drive it till you figure it out or you will be up for CVs and/or front diff, these are 4WDs not AWD so it's like locking a transfer case in 4WD on a hilux and driving it on the road
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