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ok yeah no worries if that is what you think is right I'll leave you to it Have you got a build thread showing what you are doing ? What are the specs you are looking at ? this is for a RB26 in your r33 yeah ? When are you doing this build or expecting it to be finished ? Let me know how it turns out for you yeah ? PS, Lith, I'll be at Micks Saturday night, don't get to drunk before I get there, would like to take you for a run in the 34 And I'm out, it's been fun

Again, are we talking about a street car or race car, I drive both my cars between 2-3k RPMs for street duties but I still have power all the way to 8500 I'm also talking about response between gears

That not what I said, I said i can't imagine it would be possible and that I haven't seen it happen for my self, at no point did I say it's not possible, it may very well be but at what cost to response, reading not a strong point ?If having to use higher revs is a consequence of high duration why would you use them, you use higher duration to increase rev range not increase rev range to use higher duration

Ok, i will have to find that book, though what do they rev those two types of cars to and the likely hood of someone driving a street car that way cause that is really what we are talking about here

260 is as far as I would go on anything other then an auto backed drag car planning on 10k + revs, even at 260 it would have to be no less then 10mm lift so you still got the volume into the motor, IMO ideally around the 250 mark is where an RB is best I am looking at either or both of the cams I mention earlier, if possible I will be getting the 248s for the 32 but haven't dicided if I will get the 248s or 252s for the 34, so yes if I could have got Type Rs with more lift I would have

I've pesonnaly never seen it happen and can't imagine it's possible and I have been involved in a few turbo charged race car builds, the only way to lower manifold pressure is bigger exhaust housing and bigger turbine wheel, both of which induce lag, the turbine would need to be bigger then the comp wheel for starters Then add to that you want to use high duration cams, I hope your happy to rev this thing past 10k chase my guess is your going to have to The only reaso you use high duration cams is if you want to increase your high range

So you have a result of a race engine which has less exhaust manifold pressure the boost pressure cause that is something I would like to see proof of, ie a data log Higher duration cams on any turbo application is not the best way of building them unless you want it to rev it to the moon which defeats the purpose of turbo charging Duration is the working range of your engine, different turbos can blur this and unfortunately good is the enemy of better this is a theory I have had since I first started building turbos engines back in the 90s and was proven to me when we turbo charged a mates 20v R1 and I have the reason why but I'm gonna let you try and figure it out for your selves

Shit, your right, [email protected] So now what was the 252s Edit, found em, [email protected] I gotta stop doing 12 hour days

Nah that one was [email protected], and still a possibility

What was the lift and love centres on the 256/252 cams, also did you check cam/bucket clearnces on mine both sets of cams where setup on the dyno to give best response and most linear power graph as possible, not just dropped in and that'll do If the stock cams had more lift I would have found a set to replace the Poncams, I may have found a lobe which [email protected], if this can be scaled down to a 32mm base and fitted to an RB stick it will be

Mine say "not recommended for street use" but still have the DOT approval

I can't comment on the A050s but the Z221s are street legal, they have the DOT rating and wear indicators

Well no, they are all measured the same, you just have to know how to read the cam card Cams aren't really that hard and people way over think them, IMO you choose a cam to suit the application/intended use of the engine You also can not choose a cam for turbo because it worked in a NA, they are two different animals and need to be designed and built that way, simple explanation is NA needs air velocity turbos need air volume, that is the simplest explanation and as much as I can go a lot deeper in to this this thread is about cams, not head design intake designs exhaust design etc etc

But Nathan you have 285/35 where these are 295/30 so the rolling diameter would be less meaning these might fit your 34 without rubbing, just a thought

Intake is factory except for the 105mm monster ARC intercooler and twin turbo pipe mod, exhaust is twin 3" with twin 3" cats into a single 4" Compressor maybe but not exhaust, the GT-RSs have to small of a turbine wheel which means the manifold pressure has to be to high to make the same boost level

Hahaha, the minister of food and finances strikes again lol

I still have the type Rs in the car now with a 3.0 and HKS GT-RSs making 458awkw and it makes positive boost pressure under 2k RPM Love a 3.0

Yeah those Z221s are awesome and the A050s are suppose to be even better, these should fit ok under a 33-34 GTR with the right offset wheel, but I wouldn't like to put them on the front of an unmodified 32 GTR Nesh, 265/35/18s would be plenty enough for your car I see you got down to a 1.07.39, nice

IMO and not based on any real facts, on a full exhaust yes!!, providing it/they can flow what you need to and don't have any sharp lips/edges to cause turbulence, I run 2 x 5" bodied 3" cats in my 34 Short exhausts, ie side pipes etc, different story

Works better once replaced with a better cat, I like having a working cat as once they "light up" they create heat and hot gases move faster then cold gases

Oh I agree, and I always get one if I make a decant size change, I just generally don't keep em once I've looked at them, the last dyno was due to change of alternator (180amp) and pump and coil rewire to supply power directly from alt, and oil breather catch can setup so power band wouldn't have changed so I figured a graph this time was not neccasary

-7s on modified stock manifolds, CES comp series split dumps with matching front pipe to a 80mm HKS cat and 80mm exhaust, no restrictions in it at all, I looked several times lol I only restriction in the exhaust was the turbos Edit: that setup didn't nose over, held all the way to 8k

10.5-11, not the best idea for a 32 mate Would grip awesome though, mine has the Z221s in 265/35/18 to give you an idea from your ride at SMSP

My result was no accident, I know exactly what I was doing and why I was doing it and I got the result I expected, I can explain the theory as to why but to be honest CBF typing it out, if we get to catch up again at WTAC I will explain my theory to you if you like Both cams where Poncams, 9.15mm lift, just one was 250 and the other was 260, both sets of cams where dialed in the give the best response they could, the 250s where just better I'm not one for dyno graphs, I got one when I first got the car dynoed with this setup so I knew the power band but I had it tuned two weeks ago for the trackday and don't even know what power it made , all I asked my tuner was how is it running, his answer "strong", that'll do me

I have a new Trust/Greddy TD06L2S-20G Bolton kit for some model of WRX You know you want it lol