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Eric yours would have been machanical but given his gauge is reading 50+ his is electrical Go through all the plugs you have done putting the box in and make sure they are right

In nsw it is the model of car that is banned so even if you remove the turbo you can still be booked P platers are not allowed the drive cars that require a engineers certificate

-7s on a 2.7-2.8 would give you the same or better response then the stock turbs on a 2.6 and given a stroker kit comes with a forged crank rods and Pistons, I would suggest the extra for the kit to get the extra CCs is well worth it for the benefits you get from it

Will be good and responsive, I have the HKS version on my RB30 and make positive pressure as low as 2000rpm, on a 3.3 they will be nice just don't run to much boost as the rear wheel will choke it was

Stock cams with adjustable gears and 9:1 comp for 98, 10:1 for dedicated E85

Comp wheel is a bit bigger then what I am looking for ( 74mm v 68mm ) but yeah close enough

Thanks guys, he will be stocked, confirming it would be best even if just to make sure The old halfway house is a lot closer to singleton then windsor

I'll test em, I'm a dummy

OP, 2860s will be very responsive but I doubt they will hold to 7500-8000, look at some 10cm T517Zs or equivalent 250 Poncams or 260 v 10.8 Procams

Oh ok, no wuckers

So there is 50kw difference between 2WD and 4WD at that power range ?

Any idea if the pub is kid friendly, wondering if I can bring my 6 year old along

Two cases for the turbs and dumps lol Offer forth coming

5-9, haha you where the one that beat me to it Daaaamn yoooou Faaaatz

In it is normal, coming out of it is what you are trying to stop

I'm going to try and make this one, is their E85 anywhere on this run or is it BYO ?

I knew a dude that went to whind back the clock in his 300k mark Rolla and when he pulled out the dash it had some masking tape on it with " oh no not again " written on it lol

Ok so 31 pages of pure awesome in 3 days I wish I had have seen this sooner but I don't spend much time in the build threads, as there have been quite a few things I could have helped you with When I removed the 4WS from mine I found a place that sales a Allen key plug for like $12 that fits directly into the pump to block that feed, will post pic of it soon, I hind sight though I should have just removed the splinter block and run the rear pump section through a oil cooler and back to the reservoir The helper spring on the back coilover should be put on first with the seat between the two spring sliding over the shock body so to stop side way movement under no/low wieght conditions while pushing the car hard The hose that goes from the oil cap to the catch can effectively allows the oil mist to bypass the Hi-Octane cam cover breathers, IMO all gases should leave motor via the cam cover breathers Please don't get me wrong I have really i joyed reading this epic build and am just trying to give constructive advise for you to consider

I believe Kelfords in NZ make buckets for RBs and would most likely be able to make them to what ever thickness you want

Yeah but the radius only changes by 1mm Base circle is a diameter

Lol that's how I roll It's only like 1-1.5mm that need to come off

I didn't actually do it to mine as 3deg was all I wanted but as I was setting it up I noticed it could be so you can get one more setting by simple die grinding the main bolt hole a bit

I have the same arms on my 34 and can mod them to get more camber

In order Small to lag, TD05-16g - TD05-18g - TD06SL2-20g, the billet Kandos seem to be very good valve per coin, I am considering the TD06 ones for my built 3.0ltr

Do the fit and tune at 15psi with exhaust and cam gears and the stock 26 should make about 250rwkw and 500+nm which will easy shit on what ever NA you pulled out