XKLABA

The R32 GTR is 90amp but the R34 is 80amp, I just upgraded mine to a 180amp from a 300zx

Uh the UE cams are 260

Run in on dyno, then flog the shit out of it at the track

I too use Insight Motorsport at Arndell park and can not fault his tuning, especially with the Power FC

This is right I just got lazy and didn't want to do that every time i set the timing after removing the Cas, adjusting the cam gear the replacing Cas set timing taking car for drive then repeat I think he meant the wire loop in the harness ?

Yeah, that bit, directly behind that whitish stuff is the part of the coil that makes the spark and the pick up in the light will pick up the coil firing

Um no, hold it against the white bit on the side of the coil oppersite the plug, the pick up will pick up the coil firing

Lol, yeah bit weird, have tried it and tested that method over 10 year ago when setting the cam gears on the 32, there is no manual timing adjustment on the 34, Ross trigger wheel, I mathematically worked out what the timing mark on the 34 was which was then checked by Scott to be spot on and the rest is done by the Syvecs I want the O2 where I want it because it will send its signal directly to the Syvecs and not to a gauge on the dash, and the closer I can get it to the engine the sooner the ECU will get an idea of what is happening in the engine, and yes I know how long it will take for the gas to move 1m down the exhaust and don't care, an engine spinning at 7000rpm does a lot in that time Plus I have two ports filled with O2 sensors not getting used so may as well use them The sensors I have ordered are NTK LZA09-E1s which are OEM sensors for the hypo Hondas which is what the Syvecs is pre programmed for

I'm to am on phone, iFail 5 lol At the bottom of the page under the advertising thing is a little box with a line out the bottom, push that and all will become clear That is exactly what I had, 313rwkw in a quite responsive package and then bam bent and cracked crank Do the cam gears

His portal says R34 GTR so I'm guessing his stock dumps should be fine But yeah what's the rest of the exhaust made up of ?

Stock cams on a 2.6 with -7s is best by far, i got my car with 260s and went back to 250s cause i couldnt find the stock cams , you need to get it on the dyno and dial the cam timing to get response, advance intake and retard exhaust The result I got from the two cams where in my 34 when it was still a 2.6 with -7s, there is a dyno sheet here somewhere when it was last tuned with that setup and it would make positive pressure below 2k and usable boost in the mid 2k range ( in 5th cause 1:1 ratio ) and run 19psi to the 8200redline What is your setup/mods and who tunes it ?

I just open the slide on the pickup and hold it against the back of No1 coil

Should add anything with more then 9.2mm lift will require better springs too I would really like to see what happens if you where ever to put the UE 260 x 10.8mm cams in, those poor -9s would drop their bearings

Poncam is suppose to boltin with no mods, suppose to lol The procam will require new buckets - shims and the head to be "relieved" for lobe clearance Look at contacting Unigroup Engineering for their 260 x 10.8, as much as their the same specs the UE ones open a lot faster therefore are peak open longer, will require new shims and head to be "relieved" for the lobes I went from 260 to 250 poncams and would never use 260s again, 250s spool the turbos so much sooner and give more "drive" everywhere

Yeah all stock, car only has HG, full exhaust, cam gears boost controller and ECU My other car is the oppersite, full built 3.0ltr with HKS GTRSs 250 poncams BC springs and made 623hp and all 4

Not sure when it came in but if you go to the drag strip it has to be AS/NZS, last two time I went they told me I had to get the new one before coming back Then I got booted for being to fast anyway lol So I bought a new helmet for nothing, spewing, oh well at least I can use it when I get my reregistered

Um don't tell me the helmut is ok with just the AS standard and not AS/NZS cause I just bought a new helmut cause I thought that was the new ruling

The explanation depends on how much detail you want to go into on it, simple answer is the cams barely close so the air keeps moving though motor faster

This is the simplest answer to the question Lift will give torque every where duration will give HP in the top end, top end horse power comes at the cost of low end torque My car came with 260 poncams I the changed then to 250 poncams and everything happened 800-1000rpm sooner with the same peak power and made the car a lot nicer to drive in the low rpm range for DD NAs need velocity to get their best which is why long duration cams work for them but turbos need volume which is why high lift works for turbos My philosophy with turbos is get the cams to take care of the pre boost area which will load motor off boost helping the turbos came on sooner and then let the boost take care of the top end

I love the PFC hating, I have one in my 32 and had one in my 34 and loved both of them and if they could do flex fuel it will still be in my 34, I sure I have said this before but will say it again, while near every tuner CAN TUNE a PFC very few know enough to do it properly The first person that tuned my 32 didn't know and I hated it and wanted to swap it for anything else until I found Scott and after talking to him for 5 mins I let him tune it and never looked back, farkin excellent ECU, and in the 8 years it has been in my 32 it has never missed a beat

A few drops off oil on the driveway just confirms its a GTR You how to stop oil drips on your driveway from a GTR ? Park it on the grass

Grabs popcorn and settles in, this should be good lol Can't find bright yellow dipstick but managed to rebuild gearbox

I have a Power FC Z32 AFMs and my O2 sensors turned off since like 2009 maybe and I got around 650km from a tank full ( just shy of 60L ) earlier this year Fix what you know isn't right first before looking for something that might not be right, if it still has the compliance cat then piss it off and get a good metal cat in there, no more then 200cells per inch, no less then 100 then go from there I'm talking about my 32 here if it wasn't obvious

I get 11L/100 regular driving and have got as low as 9.2L/100 driving from St Clair to Orange and back with some DD when I got back with a little over 1/4 tank left 15psi with what is essentially a stock car I get 260rwkw, so there is deffenintly something wrong with the car/tune What cat have you got ?, I picked up a heap of economy when replacing the compliance cat with a metal high flow cat There are a heap of things you can do to get better economy

Not every body is running 32psi and I have seen it a few times where pumps fail and cost an engine cause of it Unless your wideband is feeding the ECU and it can react to what it sees then by the time your wideband reads the gases sends the signal to the display and displays it and you see it then react its already to late and you have to do all this while under full boost conditions which is when your setup needs the second pump to be working properly What do you think shuts the flap, a spring and they all require some pressure to open, may only be one or to two psi but it still has some and that creates a restriction I have been involved in race cars since I was a young boy and have seen all manner of setups and have learnt over the many years what works and what doesn't, they all work when everything is doing what it is suppose to, its when it goes wrong that you learn where you have got it wrong Unless your one of those people that builds a powerful car to just DD it with the occasional dyno to show how much power it doesn't make