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Removing plugs also makes it easier for the starter motor to turn crank faster to pump oil quicker Also take it for a good drive till it gets to full oil temp so the thermostat opens and lets the air out while motor isn't under load I personally don't like relocator kits as it gives places for air to get trapped till your giving it the beans then it makes its way to your bearings and bam spun big end, I lost an engine in my 32 this way

This is exactly why I do not have a hand controller for my PFC

The A-LSD was perfectly fine till I put the Quaife up front, now its as useful as a paper weight Would like to have it in by trackday but cutting it a bit fine now and work has got real busy

Oh, haha it does say that lol, in that case get the factory ones

LOL!!!! I know that feeling, I hate watching My 34 is still on stands, hopefully it will be down in two weeks and on the dyno for a check up the week before

Wait till the motor burns a hole through a piston or through head to water gallery cause its preigniting cause its not tuned properly then you will see how detrimental it is

6 or 7 is a colder plug, better if you plan on upping the boost .8mm gap is easier for the spark to jump and will give you a bigger spark which will give you more torque

Terry of cause You coming to the trackday ?

BKR6or7EIX, no number on end which will give you a .8mm gap

I have a spare 32 diff and a new set of 34 gears I will get rebuilt, that is what is going into the 34 to get rid of the A-LSD

I got 9.53:1 with Wisco pistons with a 14cc dome top and we pumped 28psi into it so far ( weak spark ) on E85

He is in the state iirc The standard diff is a good price of gear, the one in my 32 is still working fine and you have seen what it takes

FWIW 60 on the knock in a GTR is concidered high, mine never went past 20

My guess would be Yavus set timing at 20deg with TPS connected and you have played with it at some point then reset it to what it should be, try setting it to 20deg with TPS connected and see how that goes And I wouldn't be surprised if that puts the bolt on the CAS back in the middle

Uh huh, and is that a 25 thing cause I have never done it with a 26 even with stock ECU So Ron should be setting base timing with the TPS connected then

Yeah lead is a correct way of doing it, I only mentioned it cause you said wire which is not the right way Cas also times the injectors so don't play with it to much I've never understood the disconnect TPS thing, must be a RB25 thing I don't do it to either of my 26s

And do so off the coil not the wire controlling the coil, that is off I open the slide on the timing light and hold it against the front of the coil

I to am now looking at a Fuelab Prodigy pump, just a matter of which one is going to match my Weldon 2025-A closest, probably the 42401 Will mean I can run my PWM signal straight to it is simplify my wiring Has anyone had one of these for any lenght of time ? How quiet are they ?

That is a good question, my weldon can be mounted in the boot and draw from the main tank but it sounds like the one in the video and that is with it being controlled with a PWM speed controller

Denso IQ20 Spark plugs won't fix a broken coil

I was up at Hi Octane three weeks ago and he made it very clear the Hi Octane R34 will not be entering this year Am really hoping to see the ARK R32 lapping, should be BS fast

There is and given he has 2 posts we'll go easy 18 x 9.5 Hankook Z221s in 265/35/18

Oh that sucks, drop the ATS in there then

Throw the ATS in, you already have it so why not or rebuild the stocker

Factory wastegate is 10psi I think he said he has aftermarket ones so they can be anything, my old -7s had 7psi actuators