XKLABA

He didn't know and doesn't do the work himself, so not really his fault, and the oil that was put in is what is " recommended " for that box I'm not entirely sure on what info was given with the sale of the car as I wasn't there when it was sold

A well setup oil system is better then having the ECU cut power mid corner Even if you by yourself on the track, having the car lose all power mid corner will upset the car and potentially cause you to spin out and run the risk of hitting something or someone hit you, as mentioned a motor is cheaper then the car If you plan on serious track work fit an enlarged baffled sump and then overfill it with all the usual oiling mods For a street car just fill it to the bump in the dipstick

Haha yeah that, stupid iFail autocorrectJeff Branstater ( BSM ) was blowing gearboxes using the " recommended " oil so he got a handful of the top name brand oils and had them independently tested and that test came back with that result so they switch to the RP and it stopped blow boxes Edit: to add to that the new owner went back to the " recommended " oil and blow a boxes first day out IIRC

That's a good point and something I should have added, the specs I give for cam timing should always be from a corrected zero While the 4.8 patrol motor will give more from lower rpm, that is really only a benifit to rock crawlers, 4wding and off road racing use a wider rev range then the 4.8 will deliver, we race off road This has a VQ35HR N/A I think the RB30det set right with the right turbo will give more then enough power anywhere in the rev range

The RP has better load factorying

Use as small pistons as possible, do not put 88mm pistons in a RB30, 86.5 or if you have to 87 after that get another block I'm using the RB25 Wisecos and I tightened them up from recommended specs due to knowing it will be mostly on E85

good ideaThough I'd look more at the TD06SL2-20G with the 9 blade rear wheel so it can still breath out at higher rpm This one http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/291207219708?nav=SEARCH The smaller exhaust wheel for faster spool Also OP reading your post in the dyno thread I will guess from what you wrote you retarded the intake 2deg and advanced the exhaust 4 deg, this is wrong for what you want, advance intake 4 and retard exhaust 6, give that a go and report back

Royal purple syncro max

Ok so what your saying is there is 1) An R34 Skyline GT and GT-t 2) An R34 Skyline GTR And these two model cars are a completely different model from each other as far as model codes go

Thanks, right place and what not I''ve had all manner of 265/35/18 on 18x9s over the years and they have all fitted quite well until I got the AD08s and they need to be on a 9.5 and these Z221s are a little bit wider again over the AD08s The AD08s would sit perfectly on a 9.5 where these I would like to see on a 10 or a 9.75 if such a thing exists, but the wheels I was looking at came in either 9.5 or 10.5

I might be wrong here but I was under the impression you could bolt the GTR subframes into a GT and all the front ends panels bolt on so the only thing I thought had to be cut and shut was the rear panels but every thing else could be bolted on I don't get the problem with changing from 25 to a 26 as there is only 70cc difference between them, alternatively just change the internals and keep the 25 block, unless you plan on converting it to 4WD there is no need to have the 26 block

They look good, thank you for your advise, 10s would be nice and give a little bit of stretch, but no way I'd want to put these on 10.5s

I got them out of a for sale thread for $1500 new

I got my Hankook Z221s in 265/35/18 fitted to a 9.5 rim Def glade I didn't go 10.5s

Chris, have you got a front LSD ? Does the back let go heaps before you get any forward movement, ie the front helping or is the front spinning too

And the pipe that goes from the front turbo to air box and all the BOV return pipes that go from the plastic pipe BWRGTR mention to the two turbo inlet pipes

That will be a state by state thing, best ask this in the Vic section

Sounds like it was a great event, so bummed I couldn't make it I would liked to have heard some thoughts of my Syvecs S8 from the MoTec rep, a guy I know from the offroad racing scene is a MoTec rep here in Sydney ( Bill Croft - Unicap ) had not heard of them Dammit I need a new beanie

Brett is right, the washers are in place, has the CAS been replaced at some point ?

Uh huh, Anton, how long till you get it running again, are you getting the dump pipes Bugger the skyline, how long till the dodge is going

Yeah happy to separate, I don't plan on using the relocator part of it, so the block that goes on the engine, hoses and block that the filter goes on are no longer needed, I just want the cooler and hoses to/from cooler I just need to find the thermostat block that goes on the engine, I'm thinking of stealing the one of the 32 for the upcoming trackday

The Modena box is awesome but I don't think it can be mated to the 4WD transfer case I also think it is straight cut, so it will have the whine to it And a fair bit dearer then the OS88, from memory the Modena was $20k + get stuffed tax

Not of the process, I can get one of it complete in car but I doubt that will show much

Just the relocator ? My 34 had a Greddy relocator cooler kit on it but I want to keep the cooler from it and am looking for the thermostat part that bolts to the block