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Depends how hard it hits the wall ( spring binds ), at least with the unsprung clutch you can slip it till its loaded up fully, but hitting the spring stop would be like slipping your foot off the side off the clutch pedal while its on the floor boards giving the sudden jerk, again this is just one of my crazy theories and no real proof of it and would depend on how hard you are over powering the springs Matic D is basically dextron III, not exactly same but very close, where Trans Max Z and RP Synroc max are designed for higher then normal loading like towing a caravan and stuff and while you don't have any issues with it and most likely never will I like the idea of having something designed more for what I'm doing with it

Thats why I not sold on it, cause I have no idea how far you can go with it before it becomes a potential problem, I know I feel happier with the I sprung triple in my 34 then I would a sprung one, I know I felt it with one of the single plates I had in the 32 I am very doubt full all the springs are identical, then that might be the torque rating the clutches have is referring to ? Tuffer springs or extra plate ?

I do it every 10k, it is fairly easy to do when you have seem it done, with the power you have use Trans max Z or even RP Syncro max in the transfer case and the Matic D in the ATTESA Paul, its to do with how the spring setup works and how hard the springs are, the spline rotates inside the clutch disc with only the springs there to stop it, now this is fine if the springs are strong enough to absorb the torque but if not them the spline will rotate till the springs bind then the box takes the brunt of it if the clutch can't slip and by the time the springs bind the clutch is already engaged

Low ten When did you last bleed your 4WD ? Pete Paul has a build thread Here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/397676-piglets-rebuild-of-his-busted-tomei-28/ I also not sold on spring centres in high powered 4WD, twin plate yes sprung centre not so much

You can strap a car down to tight and lose power as well Unfortunately there are many things that will effect dyno reads including tyre pressure As others have said a dyno is just a tool used for tuning and a vague indication of power, that said a dyno isn't going to shop 100hp on a 1000hp car and vise versa, if you think the operator is fudging figures for what ever reason and not just a low reading dyno, I would be going else where Mph is the best indication of power v weight and ET is an idication of setup I always take my car to the 1/4 mile track after I do something to it ( power wise ) to see real life gains for both MPH and ET An example for MPH, I not long ago had my 34 tuned and right after that I went to the strip, knowing it would run a 10 I rolled off the line and shifted to second then nailed it for the first 4 runs to get an idea of mph and ran consistent 131-132mph ranging from 11.6-12.5 et, last pass full noise from start 10.8@132mph so the start doesn't make much if any difference on mph unless your still turning tyres half track

I have done it, Platinum adaptor, Performance metal craft sump, Nitto oil pump Drilled and tapped oil pump to take a metric fitting, got a metric/AN-12 fitting, machined it down and died the metric thread long enough to go past the original oil pickup hole to block it and then a AN-12 45 off that to go under the A/C compressor

That looks like DEI Titanium Love this conversion, I have a VQ30 I was going to put in my R32 before I got the R34 and the project got put on hold When are you hoping to get it on the dyno ?

Change to stock cams and stock diff gears, the more load you put on the motor the better the turbos respond, its why your car spools harder in 4th then 1st It takes pressure to make pressure so the quicker you can pressurise the exhaust manifold the faster the turbo will spool An electric super charger post turbo/s sounds like a good idea and fairly simple to manage under the guard before the intercooler

Kando have a billet wheel direct replacement for the stock R32-33 GTR turbs That's properly balanced too lol maybe

The older HKS cam gear with the bluey green outer ring wore out as they weren't hardened enough and would skip teeth, happened to me, other then that their much of a much now days and as long as the bolts are tightened properly there isn't an issue with them

So bummed but I'm out aswell Have to fly to Gladstone QLD that Friday and drive my dads truck and trailer back to sydney, hate being the only other one in my family that has a HC liecense

Something like this http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/281375558340?nav=SEARCH

Nice car mate, see it heaps around my area I recognise the plates Get rid of the HKS filter, they don't seal properly, I had them on my 32 when I first got it and had dust in the I take tract That sux what happened to the turbo, have you got a quote yet from GCG to repair it ? Have a look at the Kando TD05H-18or20G as a cheap quick replacement if GCG want to much

+ 1 lol dam EVO Other then tuning machining and other specialised jobs like wheel alignments I do all the work on my GTRs and I'm also by no means rich

By pass it with a direct feed from alternator

Just saying As an allrounder you can't go past a GTR If track is what you like then go an EVO If street driving is what you want keep the GT-t Just my 2c

That looks pretty cool, but 460hp from a 2j is a bit soft and it still has stock brakes even though it lists OEM R34 GTR brakes

Lol, I read that wrong, so $1250 is for a new GT2860 WITH the Billet wheel fitted

So that $1250us is that per or for a twin

I have been looking through the Kando eBay shop and noticed the wheel they list for the GT2860r has the smaller size inducer for the stock turbos so when looking at them make sure of the measurements in the specs

Do FP do a bolt on for the RB26 based setups ? If so then that would be the way to go for sure but as far as I was aware only OD did a 68HTA bolt on, if i read that right you send FP your turbo and the rebuild it with a 68HTA wheel for $700 where OD you are buying a complete new turbo, another reason I started this thread was to get this sort of info I would expect a lot more then 20-30hp going from a 60mm GT wheels to the 68HTAs, granted it will spool slower but that's a trade off you have to have when going bigger wheels to make extra power The 68HTA is probably not ideal for a 2.6 but 2.8 or like me a 3.0 they would be quiet nice, especially as a bolt on upgrade

The Billet drop in wheels for -5s is what Brett was asking about on page one and not a bad option IMO As for the other two, I wouldn't, look for the Owen developments twin HTA GTR bolt ons as a better option Found them: http://www.owendevelopments.co.uk/article/76/NEW_Skyline_R33-34_twin_GT2868_HTA_turbos/

Do you mean these http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/291181239204?nav=SEARCH I to have been considering a set of these or the billet TD06-20g kit for my RB2630 Would love to see a result from them but would most likely try and get the 9 blade rear for the 30

Adam, does it happen to say if they used the same tyre and compound just in a different size ? 1sec could really be put down to anything from better weather to more practise in that car on that track, if he went from 245 to 265 with the same tyre and lost 1 second would say a lot more

I will PM you, I would like to see some pics