XKLABA

Me at the Bathurst Esses hill climb the weekend just gone With a time of 28.28 giving me the class win and 0.17 off the class record on my first time up there

That's good to hear I just did two days off hill climbs at bathurst , and had a issue on the first run on the second day while box was still cold, it crunched going from 4th back to 3rd coming into the Cutting, after that the box had warmed up and was perfect I was talking to the Supra owner that was there about oil and he too runs RP without issue but mentioned the Getrag was designed for Dextron II which is a mineral oil, not synthetic , but you can't buy that anymore as it was superseded by Dextron III

Those pics are really of them pulling the motor out, they just sent them to you in reverse order

What, nah man I love it, it would look great on a street car, cops would be like respect !!!

If you don't mind high mount for the EFRs then just buy their twin kit Me, I'd prefer the stock manifolds and to have the turbs in the factory location

Yeah mid to late 90s here, I remember that happening here to lol Though we never got over the $2 mark thank fark

If like to see either EFR6758s or PTE5130s as a true bolton for the RB26 so the small twins can enjoy some of the tech the big singles have been getting

$300 per year for rego, does that include a CTP or just rego, I pay between $240-$280 for regos and $550-$600 for the CTPs Matt, I have had that happen, I went into a Shell and got a tank full of 98 and when I finished filling up I realised there was a $0.45 difference between that and the 92 when it was usually $0.20 so I menioned it to the lady at the register and was told that's right but when I got back to the pump the price blanked out so I sat and waited and what do ha know it changed to $0.20 difference That said I stopped at the Shell near my house and the oppersite happened and 98 was exactly the same price as 92

I have the system they are describing on my 34 and it is quiter then the 80mm Jap catback that came on the car and I have the rear diffuser fitted without having to modify it Though for a 2.6 with -5s 3.5" would be plenty The snorkel from the airbox to the side gaurd will be blocked, pull it out and remove the cap, airbox v pods will have 2/5ths of F all difference to lag, it's the hard pipe bit that bolts to the turbo that needs modifying, that is all I have done to my 3.0 and I have run up 458kws at all 4 with fancy -10s

LOL!!!, *sniff sniff sniff* I smell dirty thirty envy Don't worry and keep trying, you may beat one one day, just remember " I think I can I think I can i think I can" Any gearbox behind a engine pumping the better part of 3x the factory out put is already living on borrowed time no matter if it's a 2.6 or 3.0

Gotta beat dem tree hugging hippies in their hybrids

Atleast your 2.6 sounds good while being a shopping trolly

Also it has been mentioned about advancing or retarding the cams, this is where twin cams come into their own What happens if you advance one and retard the other and vise versa Please note there is no question mark as I'm not asking, I already know the answer It was also mentioned tuning with EGTs, this is only truely beneficial for tuning if done with individual EGTs, one for each port This I have never seen done on a true street GTR with factory mount turbos I also think what Mick-O was saying is if you are taking the car to a half decant tuner and not trying to tune it yourself ( this applies to the average Joe and not people actually capable of tuning ) then taking it to a different tuner isn't going to make a world of difference to turbo lag where mechanical changes can, this also doesn't apply to power at given RPM range but where in the RPM range the turbos hit full boost

Oh the lols People keep mentioning only driving to the shops on weekends and the -5s being to lagy only for them, that is where matters least, it's on the track that laggier turbos show the weakness While you can drive it above a set rpm to keep it "on boost" that is only half the story, ever wonder why there are GTRs out there that run 13 second quarters at 140mph, it's because there is also lag between gears and/or if you have to pedal it then there is lag waiting for it to boost up again, this is also true for circuit for ever gear change and when come out of a corner and the back end tries to overtake the front and you have to get off the gas Most people won't know enough or have enough experience to feel this

OP, simple answer to your question, turbos need to breath to be responsive, so allow them to breath in with good intake and breath out with good free flowing exhaust ( for -5s 3.5" or bigger ) then once that is sorted get it on a dyno and spend some time dialing in the cam timing, done right and you should pickup off boost power as well I believe it's more drag times that matter, as much as I prefer circiut drag gives you a good idea of how your car performs MPH = power to weight ET = car setup ET v MPH = response And while all three are effected by each other each individually will give a good idea

I had my exhaust done at windsor, from CES comp series dump pipes I got twin 3" twin 3" cats into single 4" with 4" center muffler through to 4" HKS super Dragger cannon I moded myself, was like $1240 fitted in mild steel I have -10s and my car is for track and they work well upto 26psi But then I am using a 30

I think so, just different price

This one ? It's the one the Syvecs guys recommend http://flatshifter.com/flatshifter-shift/

I make 261rwkw on 16psi and 293rwkw on 19psi on a chassis dyno from stockers and with a few 125mph passes would confirm that power So 275rwkw from 18psi seems about right, though I do believe the Dynapack is a hub dyno so that might be low Would like to see a graph using the same boost level though

A pair of EFR6758s as boltons would be very nice

Yeah a little more time now, but that is better then a lot of time later plus paying for a refune, and flex fuel tunes are not cheap

His profile says R34 GT-t

3 things I see MIGHT cause you issues1) JJR dump pipe ( this is a copy of the HKS item and that was never really much chop ) 2) boost T will cause boost to tapper off 3) return flow cooler could be causing pressure drop, Stao has graphs of this from his GTR

That was about 95 DC at factory pressure, I have since upgraded pump and bumped base pressure up 5psi and car has since made 293rwkw with new rings and bigend bearings and HG on same boost level 95DC is not advisable, but I was trying to achieve something which I am 0.14seconds off Edit : with the way I have my car set up it is very good on fuel and has got over 630km from a tank full

Power will depend on boost level really, but a responsive 400awkws sounds about right to me 700s will be ok for 400 on 98, not so good on E85