XKLABA

Where are you located, i have one of those some where taking up space

Hi pete, 1L of coolant doesn't just disappear, if its not in the oil or in the exhaust then i wouldn't be calling the lawer just yet, while cold start car with radiator cap off and give it a few rev ups and see if any air bubbles come out or remover spark plugs and see if wet Between the cavity in the head and the heater unit then can easy be 1L worth of air hiding in the system, as for the oily residue most machine shops coat the blocks in an oil that sticks to the block so it doesn't rust up before assembly and the oil in the water jackets isn't easy to get out Call CRD and have a chat and see what oil they want you to run then get your mechanic to change oil and water and make sure there is no water in oil and vise versa Bleeding the coolant system in a GTR is a massive PITA, you need to get the front drivers side corner facing up and have the cabin heater open, so turn it to full hot before shuting it down to cahnge everything

Nice going, looking foward to a ride in this at the next trackday, i still owe you a ride from the last one What tyres did you get, please say AD08s cause they are way better allround then RS-3s and i have both so i know forsure and will be replacing them with AD08s

More then the time and hassle of having to find everything needed then selling everything off the 34

Do like i said man, get 34 and do direct swapage, good shit onto 34, 34 shit on to 33, 33 with 34 shit is worth more then 33 with 33 shit And dont start whinging about space, i am working on something ATM that will mean i will have the space needed and some Get OS88, get it into 33 and enjoy till 34 rocks up then swapski

A comp test tests part of the dynamic comp ratio but only tells you half the story, simple advancing the intake cam alone will give you a higher psi reading simply becuse it closes the intake valves sooner increasing the compression stroke lenght increasing the volume that gets compressed into the same area and due to the cranking speed used to do the test changes the VE The best way to test and tune cam timing changes is on the dyno where you can see the slightest changes in a controlled repeatable evironment

And that is stock 26 v stock NEO ? Interesting

Yes and VCT

Would be interesting to see the dyno graph with both RB26 and NEO runs with the same turbo and see the difference 70cc makes

I know im not Ben or Kiwi and i generally only deal with shitbox RB26s, but in my experiences shit gets interesting when you advance one and retard the other, in my advice would be advance intake and retard exhaust If your using the standard exhaust cam i can give you a pretty good idea where to start from , VCT your on your own unless you can give me all the corresponding LCAs of off and on v RPM and the spread between off and on

Ok i know one of the parts in that area is different between 26-30 and you need i micrometer to tell the difference, but it is enough to fark an engine Get the genuine part, i think i might have one here for the 26

Is that rebuilt with new nearly everything or just the mod done ?

Terry@Award quoted me between $1200-$1500 as a rough guesstimate to rebuild and "modify" the transfer case for more bite, best off contacting them and asking OS88 FTW

SAU Nickname: XKLABA Car Make and Model: Nissan R34 GTR Circuit Name: Sydney motorsport park - south circuit Lap time: 1.02.53 (Natsoft) Modifications: full forged with poncams and GT-RS turbos Engine: RB2630 Power: about 380kw at all 4 ( what ever 19psi gives me ) Suspension: Nismo R tune coilsovers, cusco sway bars and adjustable front camber arms Tyres: Hankook Z221 in 265/35/18 Brakes: 6 piston APs on 355mm rotors upfront and 4 piston APs on 343mm discs out back Body weight: 1661kgs + 105kg for me

Location and offset if known ?

Sequential, we have just gone through this and the OS giken OS88 works out way better value for money then any gearset as it also comes with a purpose built case and is rated to 1500hp and sequential

Most likely custom strut brace which is what i have to do and i lowered the subframe by 8mm, needed depends on use of car, i like to track mine so its needed for me The deckhieght on the RB30 block is 38mm higher then the RB26

Really, where cause as far as i can see only the apron is custom, the factory strut towers and full engine bay (other then apron which makes no difference) are still in place Frankly if you people dont have anything nice to say or constructive advice, feel free to not comment, this is the build thread not wasteland so move on

Good to see you have it back and hopefully I will get to see it when final tune is done, would be nice to compair side by side with my 3.0 34 It will improve a good amount when they start playing with cam timing, if there is something CRD do well its cam timing, I still use the settings they did on my 32 from 8 years ago and they should have learnt more since then Dave was pointing out the rev limit is to be set to 80,000rpm

Do it mate, seriously you will have a lighter motor that sits further back in the engine bay and have 3.8L out of the box, a few bolt ons and it will make big power with a responsiveness that any RB could only dream of, so except the cost its win win win

What Scott said, for $22k you can buy a VQ35HR and stroke it to 4.3 and still have enough for turbos and ecu

The rear ratio would be fair simple as there is a Fark load of different ones as nearly every RWD nissan has one, even the Navara Fark the Haltech, look into the Syvecs S8, it is hell expensive but does drive the drive by wire throttles and will never need upgrading This is something I have contemplated for my R32 when/if the 34 ever gets "finished", lol as if Look up the MotoIQ time attack R32 GTR, it has one in it with a Holinger

Bathurst hill climb last weekend RTDC trackday yesterday

So is it ready to pickup yet ?

Looking good pete Have they played with the cam timing at all ?