XKLABA

Is that what you got for $2.5k ? Dam that is cheap and looks like good work

Sounds like tune to me, they are renowned for tuning to rich and to rich will drown spark You need to get it to someone that know what the fark their doing so they can diagnose it properly Even if they can just run it up and tell you whats going on But giving a car back like this is massively piss poor

Dry sump is obviously the best method and if you have a full race car perfect, get the dry sump setup We have street cars and where we live the powers that be disapprove of those things on road cars so finding the best setup using a wet sump is what this thread is meant to be for

Brakes and engine oiling are to completely different realities, the pump creates a constant flow of fluid which would pressurise the air pocket then find path of least resistance with the internal pressure valve in the pump mantaining a constant pressure The problem with an air pocket is air compresses at a much different rate to oil, this increased rate of compression is what can allow oil somewhere to go in a hurry when shit hits the fan weather this makes a difference or not doesn't matter to me, if there is a easy way to remove it then it goes I'm just trying to give ideas, do with them as you please I know this much, i don't have pressure drops or spikes and there is very little oil coming out of my first catch can and none out of the second one and i've done 6 hill climbs and 2 track days and 2 trips to the drags so far

It's oil under pressure, the distance from the filter to the last bearing isn't that far different then the front one

I don't agree with the rear oil feed being blocked off and beleive it was a "quick fix" by Nissan when they realised how much oil would go to the head and get trapped there, it also creates a air pocket under the bung which IMO is never a good idea as it give the oil somewhere to go if there is a spike in oil pressure from say a preignition which allows the oil to get pushed backwards from the bigend allowing contact which can result in spinning it Even wonder way it is almost always one of the rear bigends that spin ? They should be removed and replaced with 2 appropriately sized restrictors, i have a Nitto pump and 2 x 1mm restrictors in my 2630

You should be running BCPR7ES, not -11 which are 1.1mm but without it are 0.8mm, you want 0.7 or 0.8mm gap I use Denso Iridium Racing plugs in a 24 heat range which is 8 in NGK

This one, don't fark around with it, get the best possible spark you can https://m.facebook.com/mojoperformance/posts/594366707319412

I must have just got lucky cause i haven't any issues with my setup I still say all the air that leaves the engine must do so via the cam cover breathers

I loled Edit, though i've been at my cousins funeral all day and am hammered so i could possible be off a bit

Stock dialed cams FTW with a 2.6 and GT-SSs

A bit more info would help When does it come on, ie straight away or after driving for 1/2 hour etc First check fluid in the reservoir in the boot There is a fault code list somewhere that you count the flashing light on the ECU under the pacel shelf

Oh yeah that is a thing of beauty, plus it has everything needed for padel shift

Yep, seems better, thank you

On my iphone 6+ over the last few days it has been very very slow to load pages, mostly earlier in the day It been taking between 45-60 seconds to load a page, sometimes longer Any idea why that's happening ?

Need a big........... Shut up you Twins for the factory look and well it goes ok i think and with a better match comp v exh wheel setup it should go better

What about a 8.8ltr with a 8/71 superchager in a Mach 1 mustang ?I walked one of those by 2 car lengths from a rolling start, is that what you mean

@ over 28psi i am lol, to much backpressure

The 34 has built in ignitors, the Mojo LS2 kit is what i'm going to get

So this is just sensor and harness with no display or with display

This thread is a whole year old so probably sold by now. But rated at 1500HP, i forget what torque they are rated to but i an putting one behind my 3.0 which has a heap of torque which is what it was built for Try Import Monster or Otomoto depending on where you are located

And when exactly will it be delivered to IM in Japan Not as strong and straight cut so noisy plus about $8k more For that money i would pay the extra and get the Albins sequential

It's really simple to test, run it up at 400 then drop exhaust at cat and run again I would have thought a 3.5" at 400 will be better then 3"

Sounds the goods Though i would get forged or even semi forged ( Mehle ) pistons and ARP rod bolts for that power level, i have forged Wisecos in my 34 and have no cold rattle from them Stock 26 head bolts are fine also for that power, they are 12mm after all And balance everything individually just incase you need to replace flywheel or hamonic balancer at some point And a sump extension, can never have to much oil for a 26, mine is 10.5ltrs I love this project and can't wait to see vids of it running

Yeah i realised the level of retardness and thought better of it luckily