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Also i have standard manifolds on my 34 that i modded to match the GT-RSs I also have the factory airbox and intake pipes with Z32 AFM blanks and modded elbows that bolt to turbos and modded twin turbo pipe, with that i made 623hp @ all 4 Granted that is with a RB2630

Brett has already said what i was going to but i will add Going off the dudes pic he already has hard pipes and he mentioned he has near new -5s which flow alot more then -7s So in this case factor in to the cost the fact he already has pretty much everything needed to make them work, just needs to make sure the manifolds where opened up to flow better into the bigger 0.64 housings instead of the factory 0.48s Then good dumps front and rest in 3.5" min, shorter duration cams and time them for response and the turbs will take care of the topend

Dam, i thought i posted that $1400

I have a set of R32 GTR wheels with Toyo TQ drag radials, these have done 15 passes with no burn outs as i don't have the 2WD switch fitted to my cars, i do a practise launch out of the water then run, the rims them selves aren't the best but where only for drag racing $600 a pair or $1100 for all 4 Next i have a set of R34 GTR wheels off my Vspec II, rims are in good condition with a couple of small dents and scratchs which is to be expected given their age, tyres will pass rego but don't have a great deal left on them Pickup From St Clair in western Sydney or can drop off if close

Yeah, if it was leaking the pedal would slowly drop to the floor as the fluid passed around the piston which it has to do to leak out of the BMC into the cab This test can be done with car on or off, i just find the booster can interfere sometimes

3mm isn't a great deal of fluid and could very well be pad wear, though hard to beleive it would drop that far DDing it Test the BMC by pumping the brake pedal with car switch off till the booster has stopped assisting the push pedal down hard and if it keeps dropping then your BMC is on its way out

A 17 year that wants to spend less then 2 weeks pay on a skyline and not a prius is not being smart with his monies Fark it, whats the point in being the richest person in the cemetery

Lol @ $10k per week and want to buy a NA R34 and has a budget of $15-18k And NSW DK, bahahaha, have you even entered a drift event ?

Ok so how the first photo is is how it goes on, the bolt/nut goes through the plate and bolts to the thread the filter screws to then the filter screws to the thread you can see in the first pic, i can only see the first pic The plate has O-ring same as filter which seals against block the filter has O-ring that seals against plate, the blot/nut will have a O-ring that will seal against the plate also

The O-ring goes against the block and the filter screws to the flat side, if ths can not be done send it back cause it will not work otherwise

Windsor exhaust did the mid muffler and i did the rear cannon which i made out of a HKS Super Drager

Silly question but are the cams in the right way round or can the neo only go in one way, ie inlet in exhaust spot and exhaust in inlet spot ?

At 400-450rwkw, not a great lot, certainly not enough to justify the cost If you had a full 3" i would suggest a full 4" for your setup just incase more powah is looked for in future but since you already have 3.5" just finish it off and it will work well for your current turbo IIRC the 100cell 5" venom core will flow close enough 4" pipe worth of flow My 4" system is quieter then the 80mm jap cat back i took off

It's only the body on the 5" Venom that is 5"s, the inlet and outlet are 3"-3.5"or 4" So I think you should get the one with 3.5" in and out lets and change the 3" part of your exhaust to 3.5" Or if you are feeling rich or don't think you can take it with you get a new full 4" system

3.5" is perfectly fine, just get the 3" section redone in 3.5" or atleast the bit from where the wastegate joins the main exhaust to where it changes to 3.5"

Well CRD is a pertormance shop and should know enough to know to atleast recommend enlarging the 3" section to 3.5" while car was getting upgraded

3.5" will be fine for your goal, though a 4" would be better I have twin 3" into single 4" on my 3.0 Like i said i would change from the turbo to the stepup in 3.5" with a 5" bodied 3.5" cat and be done with it and that will help the turbo response by allowing the gas to get out of the turbo easier

There is alot of people talking about response v HP of twins over single, the issue i have with this is people going from a twin setup that hasn't had the support mods done to help the twins work properly to a single that gets all the needed support mods then turn around and tell tails of how much better the single is So my point, if the twins aren't afforded the same level of supporting mods as the single then saying the single is better is misinformation Now i'm not saying singles are better or worse, i'm saying compair apples with apples and not oranges -5s on a 2.8 with the right supporting mods is a good match when setup correctly are a force to be reckoned with So my opinon is this, get the breathing support mods done and change the 270s back to 260s then dial in for response and enjoy

The cat core is the main restriction, if no core then only very little restriction as the gases bottle neck back down to 3" from the cat body

Where are you located ?

That cat is really doing you no favours, changing that alone should give you a good gain, this is under the assumption the catylitic convertor is still intact 3.2ltr is alot of motor to flow through a 3" and while it will flow 400rwkw 3.5" will do it easier and with less backpressure, exhaust backpressure hurts turbo performance

The dump and cat are the most important part of the exhaust as that is the first port of call for the exhaust gases Should be 3.5 from the turbo right through See if you can get that fixed before heading back to CRD Venom 5" bodied 3.5" cat is best for flow

The setup you have if perfect ( except the exhaust, should be 3.5" min tip to tail ), it is just set up and tuned way off the mark

I would hate to think they put in someone elses starter motor giving you the stuffed one

And any retunes to fix this should be free, cause $1600 on top of what you paid for the build is just ridiculous, tuning should have been included in the price and the car shouldn't have left there till the tune was perfect