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Tyres matter here also, if running slicks then the traction lose from doing this change is greatly reduced This is where everyone is different and every car is different as well and you need to set up your car accordingly I don't believe by throwing in short diff ratio and doing nothing else would result in a faster ET at a slower MPH, the theory should make that the other way, so what else was done to add traction I went from 18" every day tyres to 16" drag radials with a bigger diameter and went 0.2 seconds faster at 2MPH slower due to traction increase

Me Mick ? Yeah my 32 is buying it with the spare set of 3.55s i have

Other then twin plate driveline is stock standard as it was when it came from the factory in 93 And it's run 11.1 still on stock turbs

Lol, sorry Eric but that's Gavin Bell in his EVO V See you guys up there

It might be correct for some 70s POS but a highly tuned 350kw+ manual GTR it's incorrect but hey what do i know im just some guy on the internet, so do it and report back http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334990-diff-ratios/

I think 5.2:1 is availble for the GTR diffs

That's a nice theory, to bad it is incorrect as far as GTRs are concerned I have seen this first hand from PRACTICAL experience with the race cars So it really depends what you want from your car, a dyno plot or a fast car

That's how i found exactly where my leak was, i pressurised the system and bingo

5-10 minutes after you shut the car off after a good drive is when you look for leaks on the ground as the pressure builds once the car is turned off and the coolant heats up due to it not moving through radiator This happened to me when i put my motor back in and it was a hose clamp on one of the 8mm hoses under the brake booster wasn't on properly

Can't go wrong with Hypergear stuff, Stao knows his work

Those turbos are TD05H-16G and with the 10cm rear housing will happily pass 400kw but i think will struggle to see 450, you can get Kando Billet TD05H-18G with 9 blade turbine wheel CHRAs that will still be pretty responsive on the 3.0 and happily pass 450kw I have a similar setup except Type R poncams and am debating between the TD05H-18Gs and TD06SL2-20Gs for mine to replace the GT-RSs, would really like a set of EFR6758s as factory mount bolt on, they would be the ultimate bolt on for. 3.0

Bummed, i knew this was coming and was looking forward to it but will be on my way to Mt Cooperabung for the hill climb championship the next day

Are you going to change just intercooler then retune ? Will be interesting to see the difference

Sorry Pete but that has to be done before tune or will need a retune, i found this out the hard way when i fitted a Walbro 255 to my 32 and it ran out of fuel on the dyno then when i rewired it and put it back on the dyno it was excessively rich

My new favourite pic

My old daily/work vehicle My current and more practical daily/work vehical

On 98, easy On E85, 400kw is not really an issues, there has been a few that have gone 450rwkws with a single 460, just make sure the power supply to the pump is beefed up, this needs to be done when ever a Walbro is fitted i run a high amp alternator that required a extra 4g cable directly from alternator to the battery and i tapped a line off that through a relay directly to the tank lid and a new earth from lid to chassis, but then i run a 460 as a lift pump and a Weldon 2025a under the car from the surge tank as a main pump Good choice on the 1300s, i have them in my car

The hole closest to the end of the bar It's leverage over pivot point v bar strenght So the futher you are from the pivot point ( where bar is bolted to subframe ) the more leverage you have to twist the bar making it softer

Id say a SR22VE with a EFR turbo and an OS88 in R34 GTT, the GTR was to much car for him lol

And again what does any of that have to do with what i said, your whole first post was nothing more then you putting words in my mouth and twisting what i said so you could take a shot at me, so much so i had people texting me about it, and what that last line in the first post wasn't a snicker at me First of all i said a stock GTR cooler and didnt realise i had to spell out the fact i meant the stock GTR cooler was fitted to a GTR, not once did i mention hacking up a GTT to fit an illegal cooler or hacking the engine bay to fit the required pipe work isn't that basically what i said, a GTR cooler has lost most of it's efficiency by 400rwkws and when was the last time you opened the bonnet of a 400rwkw GTT to find the engine bay that looked completely stock and then your worried about fitting a decant front mount, at over 400rwkws i would say a decant front mount would be the least of your legal issues and if you want to make 400rwkws or more what other option have you got for a GTT, does someone make a factory mount cooler that will efficiently flow the air required at that power level So if there is no power limit on a cooler why bother upgrading, why not just run the stock one, which was exactly my point, while you can make 400rwkws from a stock GTR cooler fitted to a GTR how much extra would you make by bolting on a direct bolt on for a GTR to a GTR that is more efficient at that power level like a 79mm ARC item, or the 105mm ARC i have on my 34 to cover 500kw at all 4, i also said appropriately sized cooler not the biggest monster available, fitting a 150mm cooler to a 400rwkw GTR is inappropriately big and would hurt turbo response to a certain degree even though it will bolt in with only light "trimming" of the front bar without having to make custom pipes and hacking up the engine bay to fit them So my first line was directed to the fact you tried to have a shot at me by arguing my point against me What amuses me though is i have had people PM me about pipe work for their factory mount GTTs and it was you i recommended them contacting, but after this BS that is a mistake i wont make again

The big ones ?When do you need em by ?

So is reading your problem or are you just not smart enough to comprehend what you have read Where did i mention a GT30, where did i mention 250kw was the max a GTR cooler would flow or even fitting a GTR cooler to a GTS or that you had to have a 100mm cooler That's alot of words you have put in my mouth or assumptions you have incorrectly made about my comment My reference was directly to power lost to pressure drop and nothing else and none of what you said has anything to do with what i posted Or are you saying if you make 400kw from a stock GTR cooler that you wont pick up any power by putting on an APPROPRIATELY sized cooler

Air box wont help with response it just reduces the amount of hot air getting sucked in while car is moving Exhaust and cam timing is going to have the biggest gains in response on your car without major changes like stroker

Thats a nice result, what boost level was that at

Pressure drop is from the core or more it's ability to flow the required air flow and the runner entry has a lot to do with it, the more turbulence created by the air trying to get into the runners the worse the pressure drop, the more air you try and flow through a core the more pressure drop, you dont lose pressure in pipes or end tanks unless there is a restriction or the piping is to small This won't change with the fitment of a EBC, the only difference is where the EBC is connected, if connected to the inlet manifold the EBC will make the turbo harder to counter react the pressure drop to maintain the set pressure in the manifold meaning the turbo could be pushing 20psi at turbo to make 15psi at the manifold ( figures are just for example ) This is why i giggle to myself when people say they make 400rwkw+ from a stock GTR cooler, sure you can but how hard are your turbos working to do it and how much would you pick up by using an appropriate cooler