XKLABA

Hi torque starter my arse, i have 9.5:1 static comp in my 3.0 with shorter duration cams then you and my stock starter starts it perfectly fine mismatched parts is also BS, the flywheel starter ring should be exact to the original one and the starter motor gear will have a bit of wear giving more clearance then factory It is most likely a sticky starter motor from sitting around for so long and should have been lubed before reassemble, but even then it was only 5 months, mine sat around for near 18 months and has never givin me an issue

I only run 15-16 daily/track and 19psi for dyno and drags, been doing it since 2002 and had replace a set cause bearing worn out and exhaust wheel was sitting on housing Is that the SR VCT or VE ? Doesn't the VE also do lift like the V-TEC

Just wondering, if you had different size tyres front and rear would that tell the TCS ECU that you had wheel spin

Fark it, cause one more time won't and you asked so nicely This graph was done at a SAU dyno day back in 2007 4 days after the full wieght plus stereo R32 GTR ran back to back 11.3@125mph with a stock motor, the stock turbo world record in the link in my sig

Stock RB26, no VCT

Idles like a babies bottom, smooooth as Not like the 34, lol Like i said, i'm happy to see a NEO with any turbo you like, so given the NEO has a "better designed combustion chamber" and NEO and the latest tech single turbo you can get it should easy walk over my 80s tech bush bearing factory twins on a static cam setup I want to see same boost (19psi) run 290+rwkw and beat my 26 for response then prove it on the drag strip cause we all know dynos can be made to lie I'm starting get personal about it cause every time i come on a performace thread someone throws up should have gone NEO or VCT and saying it with no proof is misinformation

Rays TE37SL

Lol, kettle black mateThe point started at someone saying built for response but don't have VCT, i posted how does VCT better static cams dialed for response then Kiwi responded basicly confirming what is said At no point did any one mention response AND topend As the guys mentioned, i have posted my graph of my stock factory RB26 more then once for people to beat for both bottom end as well as top And i'm still waiting We are also only talking RB25 VCT V RB26, or any other cam timing setup that only changes the inlet cam timing from one maximum to the other, though would love to see how a RB with the VE cam setup would go

So what your saying is VCT does not help response against cams dialled in for response Proven !!, really, where exactly is the proof, i read alot of people saying it's better but still no ACTUAL proof

Lol, how exactly does VCT help response over dialed static cams when response is all you are after Yet still yet to see any proof VCT is better then properly dialled cams

This, excessive rich is bad, just not as bad as really lean

Nepean bolt master, they do them in stainless or black high tensile And would be a fair bit cheaper then bunnings

I thought that be the case, lines up with a gap, me only being 6' would work out ok, I just need a race seat to lower me down cause my helmut touches the roof lol That sounds like a plan, cheers

Mojo Performance in the states does a complete kit https://m.facebook.com/mojoperformance/posts/594366707319412

How do you go for head room with your stack hat on ?

So your saying the correct info was easily obtainable from a simple google search ? Or where trying to point out i was correct in saying i might be wrong, which is why i provided the google search for him the read for himself

I would be tempted to stop at Jezs place on the way down and get him to run it up and see if he can find the problem before taking to them to see if they actaully do anything more then wack a new set of plugs in it

I believe it is -6an but might be wrong It was the second response on google http://lmgtfy.com/?q=RB26+greddy+fuel+rail+fitting+size#seen

Lol, yes i've seen you drive, you have a heavy foot

It is quite possible they haven't set the dead times for the ID1300s correctly But then there is a heap of things that could not be set exactly correct that need to be which is why you need to take it to someone that knows what they are doing and not just the local mechanic

I am very doubtful a cahnge of plugs will fix your issues, just what to know what they out in there as that is realisticly what you should have My best guess is it is tuned to rich

When talking an engine like yours the term "mob i might try" should never be spoken Go to someone that knows what he is doing and has a good reputation for this type of work if I was you I would contact DVSJez and see if he can run it up and tell you what is going wrong

Wow, even $2750 for that cage is a good price I've seen alot less for alot more $

Get one out and tell us what it is, even use feeler gauge to get gap Should be a BCPR7ES with a 0.8/0.7mm gap It sound to me like the spark is getting drowned which is why you are getting black smoke out the exhaust, if you can see it in the rear veiw mirror then there is alot of it meaning there is way to much fuel

Sound to me like they are milking you mate Get it to someone else to run it up that can tell you exactly what is going on Next time your there ask to see their mechanics licence lol