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1 cone, lol, 1 dam cone off second outright haha, O well I'm still stoked with 4th for my 1st try at this event and totally enjoyed every second of, can not wait to come back

Hey Mate, when I was helping the BSM GTRs while it was in ipra we had some made up, try contacting JohnGTR http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/414467-r32-gtr-getting-ready-for-wtac-tunehouse/ and see if he received the restrictors when he brought the car and if so if he is willing to part with them, other wise contact Jeff at Brandster Services and see if they still have them

i think he means pump E10 not E85 diluted to E10 by 98 but then if your going to dilute E85 with 91 then that is what your going to end up with

haha yeah fair enough, I used to practice 1st 2nd 3rd then shut off to get 60' right but I was trying to stay out of the 11s back then BC do a 2.9 stroker kit that fits inside the 2.5/2.6 block

11.006, that's heart breaking, sooooo close to a ten, lol Yeah I run 255/50/16 Toyos TQs

My tuner is a Vipec dealer, Insight Motorsport, he has just realised his own computer that is worth a good look at, Emtron, if I hadn't already got the Syvecs I would have gone the EmTron for the 2630 in my R34 GTR

I run the Toyo TQs which are the same size and am nearly at the top of 4th for 123 mph, what is your rev limit ? I shift between 6500-7 then hold 4th across the line at over 7000

Haha yeah me to, a lesson I learnt a long time ago, no apprentices will ever touch my cars What's the temp coming out of the cooler, mmmmVQs, I'll put the VQ30DET I have in my 32 one day

Wow, 129mph in third, what gearbox is that ?

That would be great, I am going to post up the difference from 2.6 with-7s against 3.0 with GT-RSs, my car gets dropped off next Wednesday arvo for mapping and tune

My adapter plate is the dearest one there is and when I brought it I didn't know the amount of machining involved, $1250 for adapter kit, $1700 for machining the girdle had 5thuo taking off it then torqued down then they had to machine the top of the girdle at a set distance from the block then drill and tap a dozen bolt holes in the girdle for the adapter to bolt to then line bore then drill and tap the holes in the bolt for bigger bolts in the block none of which is required with normal steel one like sky30 uses, they bolt straight up with no machining $450 is cheap the best I found was around $800 for a kit with all the bolts needed, where did you get it from the one I have http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_88&products_id=1338&zenid=q99cn7eg0qtdsbad43tq8jbvk0 the normal one http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_88&products_id=1369

just the engine to fit a GTR ?, I went for the best of most every thing so my cost was higher then most but I knew what I wanted to end up with, and for the average build not needed running RB30 $100 forged pistons and rods $ 2000 landed preping the crank $500 adapter plate including required machining just shy of $3000, I used the Platinum Racing one because it bolts to the girdle as well as the block, I've seen normal steel ones for around $800 no machining required Nitto oil pump and N1 water pump $1500 machining for over size pistons and bottom end assembly $1500 then say $1000 for miscellaneous like gaskets oil water feeds for turbos, oil restrictors bearings etc I made 8mm spacers for the subframe and cause I have the long CES dump pipes they didn't have to be modified really the only thing different to building the 30 instead of the 26 is the adapter plate, every thing else is much of a muchness and once its in and setup rebuilding a broken one is the same as a 26 except replacing the crank and/or block, complete running motor $100-$300 In total for my whole build, hahaha more then I care to tell my wife

some dudes need to learn to read, IT CAME ON BOOST 800RPM SOONER with 250s then it did with 260s, so how does the better response make it slower, it wasn't it was faster, my 32 is just very well sorted given it is basically stock, the 34 hadn't quite got there and I didn't get to drag it on that setup before spinning a big end and bending a crank which is why it now has a 30 the wrong cams will make your car worse the right cams will make your car better, you just gotta know what your doing and not just copy what some dude on the computer did, instead look at what people have done and see what happened and decide for your self what works I don't need to discredit you, your doing a good job of showing what you don't know all by your self, but it is you that keeps asking for evidence and I haven't seen any thing about anything from you yet, just alot of typing I'll take it the supporting mods comment was at me and will respond with, no not cause of the 30 but cause I want to see 450+awkw, limited by turbos, the car happily drove around for 6 months with all the old supporting mods but they won't like the power goal and so when the new computer got here they got upgraded to help assist my goal my stand is this, take two cars one 26 and one 30, same car same mods same setup same tune same same, the 30 is always going to be nicer to drive and faster to race RB08dett, lol for sure, my 1ltr ninja revs to 13,000rpm maybe I should put that in my car

I remember watching or reading some thing about the making of the R32 GTR and from what I remember it was going to have a RB25 but when they finished the car it was to heavy to be competitive in that class so they inceased the stroke and lifted the piston pin hieght to increased the engine capacity by 70cc over 2.5ltrs, everthing else you've said is exactly why I built a 30

yeah ok what ever guy, I'll just correct you on what you think you know about my cars, it was -7s on my 34 with cams injectors etc etc and yeah it made more power then my 32 but yet ran an 11.8 against 11.1 for the 32 so that proves power isn't everything, the 800rpm increase was a change of cams not bottom end and it was the car came on boost 800rpm sooner, was easier to drive/more powerful off boost and was still holding 20 psi at 8000 and with a leaking rear manifold to turbo gasket and shite tyres, stock brakes and suspension I still managed 1.09 around wakefield as for the 30 swap there isn't a result for that yet as it hasn't been tuned, I've only just finished the supporting mods for it and it doesn't get tuned till the end of next week, then we will see the advantage of a 30 OP asked for opinions so heres mine, if your 2.6 isn't broke use it, if it does stroke it Oh I remember you now, your the guy that posts alot of shit without any evidence you even own a GTR except your user name

I certainly didn't go to a 30 to go slower, and as Lith said no one does just the 30 to improve lap times, it is almost always part of a bigger build with turbo cams intercooler exhaust etc, like mine, so evidence of them been quicker directly from the increase in CCs would be rear, but if you can't comprehend that a 30 is going to give better response and a more drivable setup that is naturally going to be quicker then what can we say if you agree there is a benifit to going a 30 why are we having this discussion ? why is my comment about a 30 been better response wise interesting, when you push near 450cc every cycle that is a puck load more air and more air means it will pressurize the exhaust manifold quicker and force the turbos to spin sooner, that is just commonsense my 32 makes positive boost pressure from before 2000rpm and will drive hard from 2000rpm all the way to 7500 no dramas at all so I don't have to drive a dressed up commodore to get that response and it runs 11.1 when I first did my 34 the only things that changed is the 30 and the turbos went from -7s to RSs, everything else was the same even the tune and since the 30 pushed the RSs the same as the 2.6 pushed the -7s I was able to drive it for 6 months with out tuning it until I changed the exhaust, and yeah it used LESS fuel driving around normally on a non tuned setup, exhuast temps where the same as before and the knock never went over 4-5 on the commander, and it only registered that on startup so how many 2.6s are running 8s and how many 30s are and how many 2.6s are actually 30s but won't tell you that, whats need got to do with it, simple fact of the matter is the 30 WILL ALWAYS, on the same setup, be nicer/easier to drive on and off the track, be more responsive, and have to work less hard to move 1500kgs of car and there fore use less fuel, both 2.6s and 30s split blocks it is a risk you take when move on from factory power on a cast iron block instead of reducing torque they should look at increasing traction and they will go faster, it is a drag car after all 350kw on a 30 will be a sweeter spot then the 2.6 with 350kws, better on and off the track, I didn't bring up the Mines car but since it was there needs to be a reference to compair it to, it is faster then a stock car yes but I'd say slower then the Hi Octane car so what do we compair it to I'll say this, after driving an untuned 30 I'll never build a 2.6 again, as much as I wouldn't build a 30 block again it will be a 3ltrs, no ifs or buts, drive one and you'll understand why

ok, wikipedia compairs stock vs stock and a stock 26 will piss all over a stock 30 plain and simple as there is no factory twin cam 30 with ITBs and twin turbos, stock the 26 has the tech in it, put that tech on a 30 and that changes the mines car is fast comaired to what, a stock car yes but put in up against the Hi Octane R34 and see how it goes

I got the balancer trigger wheel sensor and braket and convertor box to change the signal to Nissan for $2000, and didn't use the box as I changed the computer to one that reads directly off the sensor, I believe the balancer that has the trigger wheel is different to the normal/older style one, google trigger wheel rb26 there are heaps of different setups avalible, I'm currently looking for a 24-1 tooth wheel to replace the 36-2

And yet it will still be slower then a "well setup" GTR with a 2630 and 350kws just from seer response the extra 431cc gives not to mention the extra torque you get from the extra leverage from the longer stroke crank, as for sounds better, horse shit if your worried about sound buy a MX6 with an exhaust, they sound more like a 26 then a 26 does How on earth can you sit there and say there is no benefit from a 30 in daily duties, same tech on more capacity is always going to be better Better response Better torque Better fuel economy And all with less strain on motor And further once setup if you blow one you can buy a complete running motor for $100, I did, find me a running 26 for less then $2500 The only drama with the 30 is clearance top and bottom but again once setup that no longer an issue Then there was the need comment, whats need got to do with a 350kw GTR, that is ALL WANT, the want to go faster, gearbox longevity is as much as driving style as outright power, and as I've said before those of us that want push that far know that doing the drive line is enevatable, I've seen GTRs blow boxes with less then 350kw, the BSM car did a few, OS and PPG, when it was in IP with around 300kw So OP needs to decided HIS end goal and build for that, if all he wants is faster then go the 30, if he is worried about sound and drive line leave is stock or find HIS own happy medium My 32 is my happy setup, 293rwkw and an 11.1 for a daily drive it is an absolute ball to drive and IMO the perfect alrounder, my 34 on the other hand is all about speed and lap times and that is why it has a 30 in it and should make north of 450awkw on its current setup

When i put the oil cooler on my 32, 1st track day the temps went to 130+ so went home pulled it apart and freed the thermosate and put it all back together and I haven't seen it go past 110 on the track since, 16 row no fan, if I saw 140 with a cooler that big I'd be looking long and hard at it, then tell someone to fix it ! I used to run Nulon 15-50w street/track, I now use Brad Penn 15 or 20-50w, the green oil

ok now im on the laptop I can read it properly, yeah you are correct, I have always looked at it differently, so when you turn the IGN on the 5v feed is activated until you go to start the engine then it is dropped to 0v to fire coil then reactivated to "charge" for how ever long it needs to then dropped to 0v again to fire etc, I'm still looking at it from the coil dizzy craby days where the coil is always on and discharged when the dizzy makes contact with the points, your way would be more relevant to this situation I was also asking for it to be checked before the engine is started, with just the IGN on, it is to check the settings on the new computer, but it looks like when someone left the key on overnight has killed the coils and battery, not me, fark

Easier for me if you read this, to hard while im using my phone, should explain it nicely http://www.extraefi.co.uk/dwell.htm

That's right, the coil has 12v going to it full time, and 5v as a trigger, when the 5v is dropped to 0v the coil fires

Ok, no, it has 5v constant feed and to fire the coil it drops the feed for a ms, I've have just been informed on the computers forum it is actually 5v same as the 32/33 I have checked them and I got 12v-0v-5v in that order, but one of the guys on the other forum suggested it might be 12v instead of 5v so I thought I would check on here thanks for the reply anyway

they look OEM, yellow jackets the grey bit is yellow