Bl4cK32

DAMN STRAIGHT! I can't thank the guy enough for the amount of work he is putting into my car (there's a LOT to do) He ALWAYS listens to EVERYTHING you have to say. He will ALWAYS have my work, (and help if he ever needs it )

Can we clear something right now? PLENUM = WHOLE INTAKE MANIFOLD COLLECTOR = TOP HALF OF INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNERS = LOWER HALF OF INTAKE MANIFOLD Right, now saying that.... the RB25DE and the RB20DET "COLLECTORS" are the same. The Rb25DE and RB20DET "RUNNERS" are the same port size going from the collector to runners, but the ports that go form the lower runners to the head are DIFFERENT SIZES. The AAC valve is different on the RB20DET as well, hence why you use the RB20DET top half to keep all wiring std, and the RB25DE lower half to keep ports similar size (when using the rb25de head in a r32) The only difference with the RB25DE lower runners, and the RB20DET runners, is the STD. turbo coolant line that runs around the back of the head. Normally (in a RB20DET) the line separates into two lines. One joins to the coolant lines under the runners, the other joins into the actual lower half of the runners. The RB25DE does not have the connection in the lower runners to plug the second line back into. This gets blocked off. The other line that returns under the plenum, requires a longer piece of coolant hose to connect back to where its supposed to go because of the extra height of the new motor. Yes a aftermarket intake manifold, ie front facing plenum, will clear the bonnet. Saying that, looking at the motor in the car now, I'd prefer to have the motor dropped down to give it the clearance for any twist the motor may have.

Thats the plan Matt Too bad it wont look the same when the GT35/40R sitting in there At least its going on a low mount manifold, so nothing will jump out as being anything different Nothing like your show/drag car

Pretty good call at the age of 18:D

Darn cold at the moment Ok when the suns out though

Well anyone who even thinks they might be legit is an idiot for starters

Can they fit bodykits? Ive got my eye on one of the Do-Luck bodykits for the future Might need someone with skills to work on my car

how about keeping the for sale stuff in the for sale section....Yes its always nice to sell it locally

Clint, if your having troublechoosing a turbo, go see Shaun down at BoostWorx. Im sure he could recommend something, based on what you want from your setup. He always listens to what you have to say. Great guy If you want his number or address send me a pm.

I think mine had near 400,000 kms on it when i got it out of a vl. Still had the hatch marks in the cylinders and the std (origional) size pistons. In perfect condition. Had it all crack tested before work was done

no clutch, or slave, yes it has a shifter. I can organise the slave when i get the r33 one swapped over with the std r32 on thats in the car now. Should be ok to get the slave in about a week or so, but the rest is out of the car.

Its only about a hundred dollars or so. If you like i can find out exactly how much, and let you know monday. Whatever it costs to send to you, knock half the cost off of the $450. So (if it was $100) - for $450 i'll send it to your door, ie i pay for half the transport cost. ($400 for box, + $50 for postage) make any sense?

Yer, basically u use the loom u got in your car. If you got an r33 use the rb25det head with vvt to keep using the same loom. The r32 doesn't have it, so use the r32 RB25de non vvt head. Sound simple? If you want the most basic explanation, all you are doing is swapping the block for the rb30 complete block. Then some fiddling with the vvt (r33) to feed it some oil (i dunno cos i dont have vvt ) . All sensors, plugs, everything bolts to the rb30 bottom end. The computer uses the afm to keep mixtures correct, so you dont need a aftermarket computer to start it, or a remap of the std computer. Joel is starting his himself on the std ecu, injectors, turbo.....everything that was in the r32 before he removed the rb20. Dont tune it past the limits of the parts and you should be right.

Sounds like one of my tricks....and NO Joel, we dont need pics to show any off:D

I think you will find an hour or two trip will get you from the northern most suburbs to the southern suburbs, depending on traffic. Adelaide is a very small town. I will be taking mine out once its done. They have drift and racing there...go for it Tell us what you think compared to your regular haunt

Joel did a lot of research on the topic of which pistons to use. All are good, as long as correct clearances, and run in procedures are followed. If anyone tells you to use any particular brand, ask them why? I like to hear good reasons why people use certain brands...not just that someone said "these are the best" Saying that Joel and myself chose Wiseco. Do some research on the net and you will find that Wiseco supply most major piston companies (yes, including Jap companies) with their blanks, and or rings. These companies then machine the piston blanks to whatever design they want. Why not buy the pistons from the place that makes them? Yes the 94407 belt is the correct one.

No worries Jimby

bumpers

Um, just dont use any flame source near fuel vapour. Its more flammable than fuel itself. That goes for using torches etc as well when looking into the tank....try using a digital with night vision...lol edit: These views are only represented on behalf of the writer. He takes no responsibility in actions caused by others, and any injuries / deaths caused by plain stupidity

Hey i can't do anything cos Holdens is still shut till next week Nah, no need to worry bout that ultrasound, just go get the car Joel Remember - you've got three in the car now...lol hope u got them child anchor points still in

5 Speed manual gearbox, out of a r32 GTSt. Approx 100,000 kms when removed from car. Is in PERFECT condtion ie no grids, scrapes, or notchy gears. Suit rb20, or for 5 spd. conversion. Holds up to approx. 250rwkw. Replaced due to large HP application. Comes with (if you wish) : 2 piece tailshaft (std), centre bearing (as new), and cross member. SELL ALL FOR $450 - WILL SEND INTERSTATE Pm me for ANY questions....

lol....well done

Well this is a job for a proper engine builder (cos i didn't even attempt to assemble it ) All i know (which isn't much) is that we had our blocks bored 40 thou (twice) oversize to make it the 3.1 Lt. It had 20mm? (or thou?) decked off the top of the block, with a 3 layer metal head gasket. The engine buuilder said it was the ones used in the Group A racing, and also diesel engines....i think it has inbuilt o rings. As for cc of the head, the pic below shows what Joel's head worked out to be. If -Joel- was here he would tell you about the squish band to work out....he knows more on that than i do. Oh yer the pistons we used were Wiseco forgies, Part # K578M87, and i think Joel said compression worked out to be 8.2 - 8.4 : 1 somewhere in there. Also clearances were setup to run larger amounts of boost, ie 24 psi +

pm sent

Here's 2 pics. The first is the rb25de inlet manifold with the inlet/head gasket on top, showing port size to gasket shape. Notice its a good fit. The second shows the same rb25de gasket sitting on top of the rb20 inlet manifold ports that go into the head. Note the size difference. I used the top rb20 collector (part tb is on) and the rb25de lower half to bolt to the head. edit/ rb25de injectors are the same as the rb20 ones... edit 2/ straight drop in replacement injectors are rx7 series 5, part # 195500-1370. These are 550cc injectors, but require tuning to use properly...