Bl4cK32

Ring Shaun and see what he thinks : 8299 0621 I think the max for all R32 bits is about 240 ish rwkw....You maybe borderline with that boost....One cold night may push it over though. See what the go is though. Z32 is good for 300 + (Steve had 321 rwkw with his z32)

:bahaha: :bahaha:

Did someone say Groupbuy??? Id be in...just gotta see how finances go

Shouldnt have to in the first place....

Its soo funny i put in my sig

As far as i know (which aint that far ) the Greddy one doesnt have one of the cold start sensors that the Power FC uses (one of the factory sensors?) Since when were long runners a good thing? I read on this forum (from a reliable source) that the Jap tuners said its the runners that were the main reason for the change to the front facing plenums...hence the design of the greddy one, which also tapers to the rear. Rips uses the same design as the greddy one shorter runners, and tapers to the rear, unlike the sub zero style one which uses factory runners, with a square top welded on it. Looks like the design was more influenced by the need to move the throttle body if you ask me...But this thread should stay on track, its too long to argue over which FFP is a better design

P+P - BUT it needs to be tuned....

RIPS do an excellent one - see pic below. Keeps all factory sensors, unlike the Sub Zero and Greddy ones...It uses true short runners, unlike the cut and shut job Sub zero style.... His email is [email protected] - Damn good quality if you ask me...he does kits for any type head you have for $1500 NZD ($1350 AUD) comes painted in your choice of colour too

Is the RB25DE bottom end out of a R32? I may have a mate who is interested... Also, how much would the vavle cost to replace that you took from the RB25DE head? Cheers...

Buy a set of o rings that were meant for the std injectors. Using std rail + straight drop in injectors, why wouldn't the std ones be used? Dont re use the old ones. Best not to play around with fueling type seals....dont wanna hear any bangs from a leaky injector

Steve from SA 321 rwkw on a stock rb25det (including internals -pistons and all) Using only a thicker head gasket and bolt on bits.....

Joel and i were online for a while there...I stopped playing cos i thought u had to make a donation otherwise your profile got deleted. Joel, do you still play??

Dont quote me, but i believe it dropped a valve...may have been due to the toluene.... edit/ sorry Matt if your reading this, i dont like discussing others problems....

May have to start a new thread regarding large HP and the way power is delivered, compared to say power figures around 250rwkw and how responsive it feels.... Although, as you say Joel , 300rwkw rb30det feels faster than a 300rwkw rb25det...

Guess your gunna have to make yourself up a guineapig suit then eh Joel I never had any doubt the 3037 ProS wont make it over 300rwkw...just seems too good to be true. Still requires a new manifold for the 3037ProS? If it doesnt (by memory just needed a 10mm spacer plate to clear the block?) then you are up for a new manifold... The only added cost then is the external gate. Unless you need to spend more on the 3037 ProS to get it to hold boost, ie stiffer springs, or a top of the line boost controller...? Catch my drift ?

Would the same stuff be ok on a street car though?? I dont wanna fork out $$ to have my manifold/dump coated to have it peel off.... Do they coat the inside as well as outside? Ive never had it done, so im just worried if its in the inside of the manifold, what happens when it peels? Goes into the turbs = blown seals?? Might have to do some more research.....

Correct me if im wrong, but MattR had the TD06, then sold it and had the HKS T04-R on a manifold with twin external gates, and a Sub Zero plenum which got him up to the 313?Rwkw Very interesting though....I have noticed (in my short turbo career:D) that no one seems to get 300 rwkw or over with an internal gate? Anyone care to show me an example otherwise? I know you can get the 3037 Pro S which is rated the same as the 3037s, if not a little more, but has anyone actually seen good results ie 300 + rwkw on an internal gate? Sorry for the hijack Enrico, though it may help others....including me

So he listens to your advice, then blows his motor....Good idea there mate. All i can say is go get the Power FC tuned ASAP. Dont wait to do it later, unless you can afford a full rebuild.... Usually - White smoke = coolant or blown ring land Black smoke = excessive petrol Blue smoke = Oil being burnt off None of these is a good thing to have

Pm sent Troy....Joel - U love it

On my rear 9.5" wide rear rims (18 inch) ive been told legal is anywhere from 235 (yes a 235 on a 9.5" wide rim!!) to 265 wide....ring up a tyre dealer and check...they should know, its their job to know.

id give it a go, if you are planning on running a bigger stereo, guages etc...If it dont work, reset the std ecu, make sure you turn on the air con/demister/lights etc while you are out thrashing it to learn all the loads....

Power FC boost control kit is same as AVCR, just doesnt have the blue screen comp. Same solenoid, everything same as AVCR....why would they make a different boost control kit for their own ECU?? Gets me confused why ppl think its different. You use the hand controller instead of the blue sceen to monitor and set it up...

Im waiting on my manifold still, but id be in once it gets here

was that a hint Well...maybe, but only on private days for my debut

Id assume if it was the right coating to start with (read : i think there are different kinds) its supposed to be able to withstand heat....