Bl4cK32

Gearbox was taken out today and replaced by Joel and myself 35 mins to disconnect everything 4hrs to drop the box, remove twin plate, remove and install spigot bush, re install twin plate and box 35 - 40 mins to reconnect everything. SAVED $250 - $300 in labour CHEERS JOEL (owe u a six pack of Jim Beams) by the way - if anyone else wants a box out and in.....go find someone else....lol

Awww well F**k me...who else is gunna sell theirs now?? Im gunna be the only one left besides Joel and Watsisname with a line soon.... Better start gettin mine ready for sale then too.... Good luck with the sale dude

Went in to where you said in the menu : RB20DET Power FC VER. 2.32B FC COMMANDER2 VER. 8.13 Hope that helps

It was great piece of mind when i was driving the new motor home...could keep an eye on the knock sensor

Ive got em. Their those little plastic strips that go on the front edge of the window yeah? deflect wind?...lol Yer i'll get a pic in a sec for ya edit here ya go

so the 3037s has a new home now? 9k rev limit like James' 180 eh reckon u can slot a rb30det in the 180 Steve?....lol

Lemme know if it all works out

that my friend, is a 20 Lt drum calling itself a rim

*free plug* Shauns tha man Boostworx BoostWorx What does the Datalogit do besides log data?....ok im too lazy to research

underbonnet heat liner?

yer im wanna do the gtr bonnet too Chris, but funds are...well not going for any luxuries atm I'll let you know....

I need the factory heat shield thingo that is on the underside of the bonnet. Its black, has the word skyline on it, and has two layers. I need both layers. Off a std r32 Gtst Type M.... Must be in good condition...well overall good. cheers

you can take mine through, if it ever needs to then Cheeky

If you can wait till morning, i'll take a snap of the adaptor on my q45......

Cheers for all the help. Clint - id love to throw in the OS gearset, but i just want a rebuild of this box done. I cant let it keep goin the way it is, its a bad noise, driveline problem at 3rd and 4th. Ive been told by two different gearbox blokes its definitly the box, not clutch. Sky30- Bad whirring noise when i get it into 4th then stays or goes with a downchange for a gear or two....hangs around 4th though, gone in 5th. Gearchanges are smooth and not notchy though. Cant go far till this is fixed only 150 odd kms on the run in till i get this fixed..... skyline - will follow that one up other than that I love the new motor, and the torque it has Perfect this being the only set back....

Replaced the rb20 gearbox with the r33 box. Havent had the chance to give the motor any run in kms due to the r33 box making some nice sounding noises:( Im prepared to take it out but would like to know someone, or a workshop that I can drop the box off to, with all supplied parts to do a recon with. Either a simple service which is just the main bearings, gaskets and seals....or the full hog service syncros and all..... Anyone know a good quality workshop, or someone who can do a good job for me?

Im running a power fc and the dash light comes on still and the steering goes heavy at slow speeds...

yer damn those spiggot bushes eh Wouldnt want to leave that in....

i believe you cant fit the rb25det greddy plenum on the rb25de head, and they dont make one for the rb25de head anyway. Rob uses the rb25de runners and make the manifold from there. Believe me, his welding is a work of art. Im an ADR welder myself (qualified for Australian Design Regulations) and his work surpasses most ive seen. His kit comes with all thats needed to plug it in. Modified water lines, painted in your choice of colour, modified rb25 tb or modified to fit a q45 90mm tb, modified throttle cable. He told me all that is needed to plug one up is to extend the tps wires to reach the new position of the tbody. Im buying one for mine, and i hope to get over 330rwkw (easy ive been told) Roughly $1500 NZD or $1350 AUD depending on exchange rate.

Joels isnt in the car atm. He hasnt got an r33 either, its a r32. Mine has a pod filter, Q45 AFM, 550cc inj, bosch 044, 600x300x76 intercooler, os twin plate, r33 gearbox, single piece tailshaft, high flow rb20 steel wheel turbo, 3" front pipe & 3" cat back. Engine...well lets say no change from over 5k....forgies, balanced, ported head etc.... thats it. I dont know af ratios....thats how much i trust the tuner, Shaun. He ran it to check afr's then had to pull fuel from the AP Engineering base map. Only doing 1000ks with negative pressure, then dump oil, change check afrs again, then go to 5000 (varying revs, under load to 5k max) another oil change, and a full power run all out Not that i cant wait to give it some now ....it truly does have INSTANT spool (ie positive pressure) on the rb20 turbo....unbelieveable compared to the rb20....

dont know really....im not going to make any guesses, but it does it now, and i heard if you disconnect it it does tend to make it play with the steering if you just chop wires from making the light come on. Mine does it now (hicas still active) when i see the hicas light come on, the steering goes heavy....may have to do with the computer trying to fix something....cant see it being a problem if you remove everything though.....but for those locking it just for street use id get the tomei kit ie slow speeds....

Ive just replaced my engine, and the went to start for the first time after i picked it up...wouldnt crank...turns out the positive wire off the battery isnt big enough to crank over the new motor...Everyone seems to replace the earth leads off the car, but never talk of the positive wires...Beef up them (cost would be fa) then let us know how good the car cranks over

If you want to lock it just for street use the tomei would be better though wouldnt it...I get upset with the way the light comes on and the steering goes heavy at slow speeds....Does this still happen when you put the bar in, and remove all lines and plugs?....I

Tomei hicas lock kit. It has two shims for the hicas rack, and a handy little black box that gets spliced into the hicas computer that stops the dash light from coming on, as well as stops the steering from going heavy at slow speeds. edit/ unless you want to get rid of everything...lines and all...

i haerd the r32s use the power steer pump for the hicas as well.....is your hicas 100%...i get heavy steering sometimes, and the hicas lighty comes on occasionally. Might be worth looking at too.