Bl4cK32

id be more worried about a stone flying up there and it jumping a tooth or three I got mine for $200 ea....

howdy man. Ive got a rb20 exh cam if your still after one. Let me know if you do.

how about str cam gears quote : "TAKING THE CAM GEAR TO A NEW LEVEL…THESE NEW INNOVATIVE CAM GEARS ADHERE TO STRICT RMA STANDARDS, MEANING THEY ARE DESIGNED WITH A SPECIAL TOOL SO EACH TOOTH IS PRECISELY MATCHED TO THE OEM TIMING BELT. EACH GEAR MADE FROM BILLET, UTILIZES AIRCRAFT GRADE ¼” 12 POINT BOLTS WITH WASHERS TO ENSURE NO SLIPPAGE UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE. THE GEAR IS THEN ANODIZED WITH STR’S EXCLUSIVE BRONZE FLAVOR AND THEN FINISHED OFF BEARING THE MARK OF THE FAMOUS STR TRADEMARK. NOTHING EVEN COMES CLOSE TO THE TECHNOLOGY WE HAVE INVESTED IN THESE REMARKABLE CAM GEARS

yer well i suppose all roads feel good when your car is jacked up to the std height eh Joel?

yer well...just gotta sort that bearing problem in the box, then shes all ready .....class and all I do have new engine mounts and the mission mount, so id say it does have some part to play in it.... Turbo and manifold due in 1 week .....then it sits till i can afford to fit it good luck on the new car Nozila btw

well if ya love the torque of the sr....your gunna need a ride in the rb30 then Steve And it does make the car vibrate a little more too R32 is a cart....unlike the r33 boat

i have wiseco forgies....no "slap" at all in the mornin

32 out of 40....:bananaman

I think Chris is right. I enquired about buying some new Bilsteins for my car, and (dont quote me on this:)) the guy i spoke to said they dont make em for a gtst?? they had to have my old ones (std shockers) and modify a gtr pair to suit my car.....ended up around the $700 mark for a pair of new bilsteins just for the rear.... I ended up buying a complete set front and rear for $600 with springs ....used of course

yeah, thanks Joel. I can get my licence now

i know you can on the nimso one, not sure on the tomei one though. I need to do some research ....

yer i like the tomei brand for some things. I was told the Nismo 2-way diffs are quieter due to them running smaller plates on the inside??

Thats the std r32 gtr one straight out of the r32 gtr box. It has 21 teeth on it

whoops :oops:

i can get hold of a Tomei two way lsd for an r32 gtst, and was wondering how good these were compared to the Nismo or KAAZ 2 way diffs? Anyone got one of these, and how do they feel? cheers. Pics below are an example of what it would look like.....

I have a r33 box in my r32 which i installed at the same time as my new engine....both new engine and box. Driving car home from workshop i noticed speedo wasnt working, and pfc wasnt giving a speed reading...ie 00km/hr Checked the cable at the back of the speedo cluster - wasnt snapped like most people have in the 32's. Unscrewed it from the box and u could spin cable from the bottom and see it move at the top. Now this only left the speed sensor in the box. It has the r33 end on the r32 gtr top part to convert it from electric back to cable drive. In the pics in the bottom...the first pic shows the modified speedo drive (left) next to the std r32 gtr drive on the right. the second pic shows a close up of how the gear was sitting on the end of the shaft when i pulled it out of the box....the third pic shows how its supposed to be? (well i reinstalled it like in pic 3 and speedo works now) Made sure it aint coming off again! the 4th photo shows the fixed r33 modified unit compared to the std r32 gtr unit. I hope this helps someone else in future......

need the seedo sensor out the gearbox. It has two wires coming out of the sensor on the right rear side of the box. Not the two electrical plugs on top of the box (reverse and netral sender). It should have a screw holding it on, then an o ring to seal it so it just pulls out cheers.

my rb30 bottom end still showed hone marks on the bore and it had done near 400,000 kms in a vl before i got it.

sold.

ever experienced the steering go stiff at slow speeds even with it disconnected? My ps pump is stuffed. So keeping in mind i wanna diasble hicas later.....i can : a) fix the rb20det ps pump on there now, then fit the Tomei lock kit - or B) remove the rb20det ps pump, strip hicas system, install r33 ps pump, and plug it up to use the ps cooler still, install a lock bar at rear Im still running the rb20 harmonic balancer as well Clint.

Id just like to keep the rack and all lines there, incase i ever want it back on....ie sell the car or if im defected and need it on to pass inspection. I suppose im gunna end up rebuilding the rb20 one then install the Tomei HICAS kit. I think that might be the easiest solution.....

my pump is about to shit it...hence why i was interested in replacing with a simpler item...the r33 pump :cooldance

Cheers SK. Gotta figure out what i want to keep on the car then. The Tomei hicas lock uses the std rack, just with shims....easier to scrap the lot and use a lock bar i suppose? How does this affect the computer? Ive got a PFC, so i dont know if the dash light will come on still. This was one of ther reasons i like the Tomei kit, due to the interceptor module....

geet your learner permit first, then do a driving test, or the log book method. If you do the test, make sure you know 100% how to drive by the rules.....ie get and read the book for SA cos we got some fu

so i can just swap over the pulleys if they are different. Where would be a good place to disconnect the rear rack plumbing then?