Bl4cK32

i had my motor rebuilt a while ago, and the coolant system is fine but im doing a flush soon. I noticed that when i always top the overflow to the max line, when i go for a drive it will always overflow the bottle, then suck back what it needs into the radiator leaving it empty. I have no leaks in the system, and the cooling is perfect in the car, its just the overflow never likes to be full, just empty. The car has a new clutch fan, a new water pump was put in when the motor was built too. Basically the coolant system is 100%, except it doesnt like any water in the overflow. Where does other people's levels sit in the overflow, and would there be anything wrong with the coolant system? thanks.

yer, im not sure Whiteline actually make replacement subframe mounts, just pinapples as Cubes has mentioned. Most people fit the pinapples as a bandaid solution to fix the flex in the rear subframe instead of replacing the oem mounts which these replace. Or people tend to fit them damn alloy bush ones, which just crush the std bush down to make the rear subframe sit metal on metal, which aint good for NVH in the car. These can be fitted along with the pinapple type to angle the cradle for traction, as also mentioned edit: im keeping the gb open for a tad longer to get final numbers up, but it will be closing soon.

is that $400 icluding parts and labour trick? (for an r33 box yer?) Im gunna do the same as you to save some $$. I only need a bearing set put through. Did u have the syncro's done? thanks

No need for bold writing dude. i know the max speed rating of the space savers. For the record I wasnt doing 80+ for extended periods 80 (give or minus 5kmh) for only a 200 metre stretch. I was using the tyre to get me home. I know what its used for, but thanks for the informative lecture.... I was just stating that using the damn tyre at its max. speed rating it wasnt going to hold up for long. I changed the tyre the next morning before i used the car again.

I had the space saver on once when my tyre went flat at work, and had to get home. I had to go down a 90 stretch with it on, but i sat around 85. By the end of it you could smell the tyre wasnt coping with it, even for the short time i was doing 85...

2 things i hate listening to people talk about because no-one will ever agree totally: Politics and football. I dislike both.

Rob (RIPS) on this forum and SDU makes carbon fibre grilles, and bonnet lips. $500 for both from NZ.

You can buy the masking paper with stickytape already together on a roll, instead of using the old newspaper and masking tape. You can buy the roll holder and say a couple of rolls and save a heap of time for a small outlay cost

Just bumping an old thread Is there any real benefit from having a bigger spark on an engine? I thought it would mean a better burn of the petrol, and the ability to run a larger plug gap? Surely there must be some benefits? Is anyone running one, and have they noticed any differences? edit - found an old post from SK Are you saying the hks cdi system is a waste of money with splitfires on r32gtst SK?

yer, id rather spend xbox money upgrading a pc....

yer it was the jaycar noise supressors. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...x=&SUBCATID=563

yes, but then you should update the price in the first post then to reflect the current price being offered, not $560. Its just confusing is all

if i was going to try that method JimX, id try to find some better epoxies like the one you found. I know for sure there are a lot better things to use than hardware araldite....

sure $464 + $46 = $500 to my door, but you have prices listed above still at $560 delivered? Are you making like $50 per kit here? I might as well get them from perfectrun for $550.....

anyone tried these - http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?FORM=CAT ?

ive got the twin 2.5" system after the cat, back to 2x 3" mufflers. It runs no cat, just a 3" front. Its a damn quiet system, and doesnt drone (made out of ms, as well as splitting it helps) 2x2.5" pipes equal about the same area as a single 3 3/4" pipe. It fixed up my flow dramas behind the rb30det. Even Cubes says its a damn quiet exhaust for what it is.

i dont agree with the bodge up method used in the maintenance thread for a couple of reasons. The first being that they are using araldite to re insulate the coilpacks. For starters araldite loses its hardness (ie goes soft) at anything above 60 degrees c. I find it hard to believe the head doesnt get httoer than 60c. Personally ive tried to locate someone who can rewind and re-insualte the std coil packs. Its very common for road bikes to have the coils / electrics rewound etc, so why is it so damn hard to find someone to do it for my car?? Im gunna have to pull apart the coils myself and rewind/reinsualte them myself. Failing that -then i will be going splitfires. Call me old fashioned, but i believe in the older style of fix it before replace it (time to fix versus 5 mins to replace)

check my sig freebaggin

www.perfectrun.com.au have them for under $550 delivered.

?

$30 + $5 for postage and u got a deal.

depending on price, and timeframe i may be interested in a set of dis-001

Nope, can be done at home. You cut the old ones out using a holesaw then a hacksaw for the outer collar. Then its a hammer/grease job to tap in the new ones

Go the coppers. They are $3-4 each, and do the same job as iridiums.

howdy, Ive got 2 HKS gauges for sale atm. One is pressure (can be used for oil or fuel) and the other is a temperature gauge (can be used for oil or water) see here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=109396 Ive got fitting instructions, and they come in the origional boxes. I spent over $250 on these 2 gauges. Let me know what you think.