Bl4cK32

ahh, cool. Dunno where i got that from then. These APC ones look pretty good for the price. If i wanted more than 300rwkw, then id consider to buy one

there must be a slight difference if the greddy one doesnt allow you to use the std fuel rail, and the APC one does?

ive got the 25de head, and you can move it forward. edit/ im not going to argue about it, but in a 32 it will fit

www.perfectrun.com.au $550 delivered from Japan

good ol' cubes with the details ive forgotten half the stuff we did on the build damn shorterm memory loss.....what was the question?

nope

Same as the bar was before, or make it better. I havent posted pics, but whats so hard to picture about it?? Your simply offsetting a bar forward, not making great structural changes

Well when cubes and myself had our heads rebuilt and ported etc, they did the full rebuild for around $700. For an extra $200 they did exactly what u said you had done to your head - 3 angle valve job, deshroud etc. Ive got pics (or cubes has) of the finished job, and they reckon its good to flow around 700hp i think from memory. The guys who done them have been doing it also for years, and they are expensive (they wanted over 8k for a full engine build), but their headwork was good and reasonably priced.

best off removing them from the car and take them to pedders. I bought mine, and found out i had 14mm tie rods, not the 12mm size i was supplied another trip back to Pedders.

anyone can confirm this? id be a happy man

you dont make it sit higher, you move it forward not up

why is everyone strung up on the damn strut brace. Make new ends to offset the bar across the engine to clear the tb. If your building the engine, you have to cut and weld the engine mounts, so whats hard about making new strut ends at the same time??

pick the setup that will match what you are doing with the car. If you plan on doing lots of track work, then see what others are using...N1 pumps? Mine is mainly a streeter, with occasional track/sprints. I use the rb30e pump, and haven't had any cooling problems.

std rb25 pump has higher pressure than the std rb20 oil pump. Use a rb30e water pump.

yer, rb cranks are nitrided from the factory, so it sounds like your engine builder hasnt worked on rb's before About $200 on headwork (port'n'polish) is all you wanna spend. any more and it becomes expensive, and not worth the $$ spent for anymore gains.

Ive also been looking at the solid lifter conversion. The only thing putting me off is the price. If i hadnt had my head fully rebuilt and ported, i would slap on a rb26 head.

Why wouldnt they? He uses the std runners.

got the drivers side indicator? Is the little part that holds it on via a screw still intact as well?

yer no wierd knock here, except under load as my coils are almost dead.

lol. only time i called the raa is when my clutch pedal box fell apart as i pulled into work. Woodville to TTG for $11 Oh, and the time i put my clublock on, and then realised after shopping i didnt have the clublock key on me Needed to call a locksmith out in the pouring rain in a shopping carpark for that stupid episode ...as Chris said...self inflicted

Peoples, you can keep your strut braces. Its simply a matter of making new sections where they bolt onto the strut top. You just offset the bar a little forward to clear the x-over pipe. Im doing this soon as i get some steel :toolazy:P: edit/ if you are doing the rb30det, you need to cut and weld the engine mounts, so dont say you dont have acess to a welder PHAT32 - ive upgraded my driveline at the same time. I had the rb20det gearbox/diff, but am now running a os twin clutch, r33 box, nismo 2 way diff. Its now coming down to worn subframe bushes, old cheap shitty tyres that wear out due to my slightly imperfect wheel alignment setting. If you start off with std gear (evgen in a r33/34) you will no doubt end up replacing all the wornout stuff that u do when upgrading any engine.

clearance isnt an issue if using the std ic pipng route.Cubes uses the std route and has no probs, where i have the "drivers side over the top of the radiator " route, and had trouble closing the bonnet. Even for a cheap version it requires a pfc, bigger injectors, bigger afm, and a fuel pump. The std trurbo is useless (even highflowed) so a bigger one is needed. Even as a chheap drop in it still requires a few supporting mods. Otherwise u will be putting it around trying not to hit a fuel cut etc...

Ive got the std ic and piping off a r32. I think it should be the same setup. U can have it all for $75 if you want. Pm me for details/pics

I wont be going past 16 psi till i fit the new turbo with the new cams + springs

If using the std rb25de cams with the gtr springs Sky30 has 312rwkw(?) If going aftermarket cams, match them to the springs u use.